mattd

it was critters. chewed the wires of the coil on cyl 2. what are the chances i can put a new plug on the existing wires? vs getting a whole new wiring harness. 2000 sierra 5.3. thanks,

Pretty sure it's old gas. but not 100%. if it was wires it would be critters. just thinking of all the things that could throw that code.

Ignition Coil B - Primary Control Circuit/Open. Medical issue over the fall/winter, farm truck didn't go to the farm and sat for 5-6 months. Idles crappy and throwing this code. Pretty sure it is, or was caused by old gas. I've run a fresh tank thru it and recently put a bottle of seafoam in 1/8 a tank and no improvements. Where should I start? still need to check plugs, and maybe give wires a once over. Injectors seem likely. Guess I should probable swap coils to see if the issues moves cylinders. Any other thoughts before I start spending real money?

5.3l. Auto trans. not sure on any more detail on that.

Have an Evap system code. A bit of research and the vapor canister valve could be a likely suspect. I searched videos on replacing that and it seems every truck has a diff system, none matching mine. For a while I though maybe the valve was internal to the charcoal canister. There isn't one to be see anywhere in the areas all the videos showed. However, I did just find a video that showed it on top of the canister. The guy removed the bed to get to it. Since I have a 2000 GMC, I also have a fuel pump replacement hatch cut into my bed. It has a tool box on it, and isn't super easy to get to. So I thought I'd ask what the likely hood is that I have an internal to the canister valve vs one that is completely out of site from under the truck but could be accessed from my 12"x12" hatch. thanks,

Figured it out. Had to take the whole assembly out. Just a couple nuts to take off and very little cussing.

Had my 2000 Sierra 1500 since 06, and have never had a functioning parking brake. This year I got dinged on the safety inspection for it. New shoes and the parts kit went in fine. New cable under the doors went on easy. but then I discovered that the cable at the pedal is off. It seems to be intact, just the knob at the end disengaged and it’s off it’s track, and sucked all the way down to the bracket holding the cable. it runs between the side wall and the foot pedal lever. There’s no room to snake it up and reconnect it. Is there a trick to that? also, the pedal is not springing back up. Is the tension in the cable responsible for returning the pedal? Or is there another issue? Thanks

Not a noise complaint. I should have phrased that diff. It’s not a slight noise. Like 10% of the time the front sounds a little creaky. 100% of the time it rides like crap. You feel every bump significantly. The new shocks keep it from floating and reverberating. But you feel every little thing.

I've replaced my rear leaf springs and all 4 shocks on my 2000 Sierra Z71 with 185k miles. It still feels (and slightly sounds) rickety. I've convinced myself that it is coming from the front end. Are torsion bars likely something that needs to be replaced? Could they just be adjusted with the key? Any chance coil springs would go directly on and help?

Thanks guys. Got it done! prior to changing the filter I drained the pan and refilled it with fresh atf and put 100m on it. I’ve heard that slowly transitioning the atf out is better for high miles trans. after 100m on the fresh 4qts I was planning to replace the filter and of course add another 4-5qts. right before the 100m was up the check engine light came on. It was a trans slipping code and a replace filter code. And it was shifting hard. now it’s shifting and driving great but the check engine light is still on. The change filter code is gone, but it still says it’s slipping. Code P1870. i don’t feel it. And the autozone code reader couldn’t clear it (didn’t have that clear function). Is this one of the codes that clears after a number of miles on it and the computer has enough time to evaluate it?

I forcefully pried it to the side. After bout and inch or so I hits the driveshaft. Not even enough to deform it. I’ll give removing the mount a try. Thanks!

Trying to change my 4l60e filter on my 2000 Sierra 1500. I can’t free the pan up cause the driver side exhaust passes under it, and the shift linkage is blocking it on one side. I did this proly 10+ years ago and I seem to remember taking out the nuts for the sift linkage, but they’re torx nuts and on top. I can’t believe I actually got them off back then. Can’t seem to get the ratchet on it with room to turn now. The best option seems to drop the exhaust. I could proly get clearance by removing the passenger side only. But I only managed to free up one nut. Rounded the other 2. next step is extractor sockets on the exhaust nuts unless there’s some other trick.

What atf do I use in my 2000 Sierra w 5.3? the internet says both dex3 and 6. The guy at the parts store looked it up and said dex6. my dipstick says dex3. as smart as the internet is, I’m leaning towards the dipstick!

Had to drive it last night. Hooked everything back up today and it vaccum a down to just shy of 25bar. After sitting for 1.75 hours, if it’s moved it’s barely lowered. so I guess I’m good to go? Run the vaccum for an hour and recharge?

My uv light indicated I needed to replace this flared nut seal, and the low side valve was gurgling bubbles too. Both replaced and I can vacuum it to 25bar. After about 30-45mij it drops to 20bar. i haven’t found any more dye, but haven’t started digging in deep. Any thoughts on where some likely spots are before I go on a goose chase?

My wife’s 2017 Tahoe w 99k miles started shuddering. Took it to a transmission shop and they said it was def transmission, and a torn up pump is a common issue, he wouldn’t know for sure until he got it out. $3800-$5500. $5500 is for a replacement, less if he rebuilds. we just spent $1400 on the ac condenser weld problem. The internet says these are both known problems with class action suites. she loves her car and it’s great for what we need. I’m tempted to have it fixed and put another 100k on it. But maybe it’s a lemon. And the next high dollar problem is right around the corner. the alternative is to see what we can get for a trade in. it’d have to be done quick cause she needs a vehicle. It usually takes her months of working on me to get me car shopping. A replacement vehicle would be A bit newer w less miles, potentially w remaining warranty and just be out of pocket the sales tax and a bit more of a monthly payment. If we could get a reasonable amount for it. not sure what to do.

My wife’s ac went out in her 2017 tahoe. I know there’s an issue w a weld at the condenser, so I’m trying to put dye in to confirm. Isn’t this the low side on the right? Can’t get the hose on it. Tested the hose on my 2000 Sierra and it went on easy.

It’s a fuel issue. pressure tested at 26psi running, and when I just turned the key to ON it jumped up to 20psi and dropped right off back to 0. when the check engine first came on I took it to autozone and he said I needed a new fuel pressure regulator. They had a weird system where I took reader out to truck. Then they plugged it into their inside computer and it just popped up the parts I needed. No codes, no this is what’s wrong, just buy these parts. but I did get a new regulator, just it was a $13 one off amazon. Ac delco one is like $70. ive also replaced the fuel pump a few years ago. Doubt there’s 8k miles on it. But I’m sure I cheeped out then too. so which of these to replace first with a name brand?

Also, when I start it, hot or cold, it chugs at first. Maybe tries to start. Then I let off the key and turn it again and it fires right up. Same sequence every time.

Check engine lite came on my 2000 Sierra 1500 5.3. first test at autozone and they guy told me it was fuel pressure regulator. Put a new one on and lite still on. Oreillys has a better tester that gives more info. It said random misfire and lean bank 1 and 2. He told me I needed a tune up so got new plugs and wires. Lite still on. teated again and now it still says random misfire, but repeats lean on 1 and 2 twice. Didn’t record the codes. Proly need to retest to get them. in the meantime I cleaned the maf w maf cleaner. it seems to run fine except when I give it Gas to pass it dosent accelerate that well. But once I started paying attention maybe it is idling slightly rough, maybe. I’m probably thinking too much on it. Idles at 6-700rpm. Does that point to anything before I start this goose chase?

2000 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71. I abused it hauling heavy loads of material in the bed. Now when I put tongue weight on its sags pretty bad. Going forward I’ll be towing either a skid steer or camper, both around 6000lbs. Don’t do much daily driving with it. I could replace the springs with factory springs. New towing rated shocks. Probably all I need. And less $$$. Or looks like I could Upgrade to 2500 springs and towing rated shocks. But that would raise the rear and require messing with the torsion keys to raise the front. More $$$ but would have some other advantages, mostly aesthetic. any thing I’m missing with those options? Any other options? Would air bags negate replacing springs?

Need new rear shocks on my 2000 Sierra z71. It’s all stock, and I’d normally just go w a stock replacement. But we just bought a 5500lbs camper that this truck will pull sometimes. And I have a skid steer that weighs close to 5500lbs w trailer weight added in. is there a better shock for towing?

Sorry. Fat fingered one character.... 1GNSKBKC7HR187712 thanks

Just like the rest of the world apparently, we’re looking to get a camper. Trying to figure out the tow capacity of my wife’s 2017 Tahoe LT. The manual says it’s either 6600lbs or 8400lbs (close to those numbers, do t have it in Front of me), depending on gear ratio. how do I figure that out? Vin 1GNSKBKC7HR187722. also, my buddies expedition’s manual says how much capacity a weight distribution hitch adds. Any idea on the Tahoe? Thanks