mattd

it was critters. chewed the wires of the coil on cyl 2. what are the chances i can put a new plug on the existing wires? vs getting a whole new wiring harness. 2000 sierra 5.3. thanks,

Pretty sure it's old gas. but not 100%. if it was wires it would be critters. just thinking of all the things that could throw that code.

Ignition Coil B - Primary Control Circuit/Open. Medical issue over the fall/winter, farm truck didn't go to the farm and sat for 5-6 months. Idles crappy and throwing this code. Pretty sure it is, or was caused by old gas. I've run a fresh tank thru it and recently put a bottle of seafoam in 1/8 a tank and no improvements. Where should I start? still need to check plugs, and maybe give wires a once over. Injectors seem likely. Guess I should probable swap coils to see if the issues moves cylinders. Any other thoughts before I start spending real money?

5.3l. Auto trans. not sure on any more detail on that.

Have an Evap system code. A bit of research and the vapor canister valve could be a likely suspect. I searched videos on replacing that and it seems every truck has a diff system, none matching mine. For a while I though maybe the valve was internal to the charcoal canister. There isn't one to be see anywhere in the areas all the videos showed. However, I did just find a video that showed it on top of the canister. The guy removed the bed to get to it. Since I have a 2000 GMC, I also have a fuel pump replacement hatch cut into my bed. It has a tool box on it, and isn't super easy to get to. So I thought I'd ask what the likely hood is that I have an internal to the canister valve vs one that is completely out of site from under the truck but could be accessed from my 12"x12" hatch. thanks,

Figured it out. Had to take the whole assembly out. Just a couple nuts to take off and very little cussing.

Had my 2000 Sierra 1500 since 06, and have never had a functioning parking brake. This year I got dinged on the safety inspection for it. New shoes and the parts kit went in fine. New cable under the doors went on easy. but then I discovered that the cable at the pedal is off. It seems to be intact, just the knob at the end disengaged and it’s off it’s track, and sucked all the way down to the bracket holding the cable. it runs between the side wall and the foot pedal lever. There’s no room to snake it up and reconnect it. Is there a trick to that? also, the pedal is not springing back up. Is the tension in the cable responsible for returning the pedal? Or is there another issue? Thanks

Not a noise complaint. I should have phrased that diff. It’s not a slight noise. Like 10% of the time the front sounds a little creaky. 100% of the time it rides like crap. You feel every bump significantly. The new shocks keep it from floating and reverberating. But you feel every little thing.

I've replaced my rear leaf springs and all 4 shocks on my 2000 Sierra Z71 with 185k miles. It still feels (and slightly sounds) rickety. I've convinced myself that it is coming from the front end. Are torsion bars likely something that needs to be replaced? Could they just be adjusted with the key? Any chance coil springs would go directly on and help?

Thanks guys. Got it done! prior to changing the filter I drained the pan and refilled it with fresh atf and put 100m on it. I’ve heard that slowly transitioning the atf out is better for high miles trans. after 100m on the fresh 4qts I was planning to replace the filter and of course add another 4-5qts. right before the 100m was up the check engine light came on. It was a trans slipping code and a replace filter code. And it was shifting hard. now it’s shifting and driving great but the check engine light is still on. The change filter code is gone, but it still says it’s slipping. Code P1870. i don’t feel it. And the autozone code reader couldn’t clear it (didn’t have that clear function). Is this one of the codes that clears after a number of miles on it and the computer has enough time to evaluate it?

I forcefully pried it to the side. After bout and inch or so I hits the driveshaft. Not even enough to deform it. I’ll give removing the mount a try. Thanks!

Trying to change my 4l60e filter on my 2000 Sierra 1500. I can’t free the pan up cause the driver side exhaust passes under it, and the shift linkage is blocking it on one side. I did this proly 10+ years ago and I seem to remember taking out the nuts for the sift linkage, but they’re torx nuts and on top. I can’t believe I actually got them off back then. Can’t seem to get the ratchet on it with room to turn now. The best option seems to drop the exhaust. I could proly get clearance by removing the passenger side only. But I only managed to free up one nut. Rounded the other 2. next step is extractor sockets on the exhaust nuts unless there’s some other trick.

What atf do I use in my 2000 Sierra w 5.3? the internet says both dex3 and 6. The guy at the parts store looked it up and said dex6. my dipstick says dex3. as smart as the internet is, I’m leaning towards the dipstick!

Had to drive it last night. Hooked everything back up today and it vaccum a down to just shy of 25bar. After sitting for 1.75 hours, if it’s moved it’s barely lowered. so I guess I’m good to go? Run the vaccum for an hour and recharge?

My uv light indicated I needed to replace this flared nut seal, and the low side valve was gurgling bubbles too. Both replaced and I can vacuum it to 25bar. After about 30-45mij it drops to 20bar. i haven’t found any more dye, but haven’t started digging in deep. Any thoughts on where some likely spots are before I go on a goose chase?