Tom_1991

I don't have enough budget. And from my friend's 6.0 Turbo diesel (Ford), I don't think I am ready to bother diesel. But I plan once I blow my 454, I would do a 12 valve swap. But since 454 is pretty bulletproof if proper maintained, so ~ Oh, by the way, I have a Kodiak C70 in the game Snowrunner. lol

Yup, 10k on LS454 is actually just long block, I need extra money for other accessories and works, like wiring harness, PCM and programing to make it work for my truck. A complete engine probably start from 12k. And the cost of all my planned work really enough to buy a new truck, but, I think not really that way. For "new" trucks, especially late 2000s and later, I HATE those complicate fragile and expensive electronic junks come altogether with it. I once put my hand on a 1998 Chevy C3500 truck, with L29 454, running rough. It's EFI system is unnecessarily complicate than my TBI 454, and what make me mad, is why the hell do I have to own a Snap-on or Tech scanner to do the ignition timing? So from that, I never bother any 454 or 350 newer than 1995, or in other word, I only look for 1988-1995 GMT400. But for these trucks, I gonna need the same thing to do, unless the ex-owner have done them for me.

From information I have gathered, a new 454 LS costs around $10k, old ones unless pull from junk yard (around $500 I rememer), or maybe around $3-4k, and they are better to be rebuild before install in the engine bay, which costs around $5K. The overall cost reduction is not that impressive, but the problem is I don't have garage like most of you folks, I can only do oil change, some wiring work or small part swap. Works like engine swap, rebuild, welding, are not possible at my place even though I actually like to do it and probably I can do it with enough space and equipment. So find a right place to install forced induction is probably the only option for me. Currently, I am considering about ProCharger and Banks. ProCharger belt-driven turbo costs about $5k, but is not California legal; Banks turbo should be more expensive because they are emission compliant, probably means CA legal, and they are located right in CA. They must have a bigger catalytic converter in their kit. I know catalytic converter, CA version prices at least 2 times of federal version, and to make it worse, we have massive number of converter theft actions happen around, make the price ridiculous high. For example of my Suburban, the converter used to be several hundred, but months ago when I need one for smog, even a used one costs $1300 or something, new one is over $3000! Some how I even suspect it's conspiracy of gov. to force people to purchase electric toy cars, which don't have cat. I guess these solutions supposed to include new EFI, at least new program, and fueling system, because according to Brain Harris, the stock fuel pump is barely enough for 230hp.

The problem is I don't have enough budget for this. Probably forced induction is more affordable for me. And I don't want to make it too crazy, like those make it 600-1000 hp. I just want to boost it to 350-400hp at sea level, and still have around 300 hp at 8000ft. I think all-stock should be okay, with some enhancement on cooling system, like electric fan, high volume water pump, larger oil cooler.

Yup, I am considering about adding turbo.

If only me drive freely, probably I will do the same as you. But my friend's damn turbo diesel is too powerful at that terrain. To be honest, I am seriously considering about adding turbo at Banks Power and convert the stupid transmission into manual (flip-switch shifting or stand-alone controller).

Recently (9 and 10th Oct.) had a drive with my friend (2008 Ford E-350 with 6.0 diesel) in Eastern Sierra area, used route CA-88(Stockton - Alpine Village), 89(Alpine Village - Topaz Lake), 168(Bishop - Sabrina Lake), 120(Mono Lake - Manteca), US-395(Topaz Lake - Bishop), Virginia Lakes Rd. The highest altitude was 9900+ ft at Virginia Lakes, and had a one-night camping at North Lake at 9300+ ft. The performance is expected, it performs like a mid or early 90s Toyota Corolla with 4 adults on board. At the climbing on US-395N, north of Bishop, (37°28'56.9"N 118°34'52.5"W or 37.482478, -118.581256 ), it can barely maintain 70mph, with the stupid and annoying transmission jump between 3rd and 4th gear. I believe it can actually maintain 70mph without problem if the transmission doesn't mess it up. I am planning to convert it into switch-flip manual or use stand-alone controller. And the climbing on CA-168 is really a struggle, barely 40mph, with the stupid and annoying transmission again, jumping between 2nd and 3rd gear, until I have it enough, simply put the shifter at 2, let it revs at 3500 rpm, while 4000 is the red line. So is it performs normal? Any advice on high altitude driving and tuning? Like base ignition timing? The first day, the climbing on CA-88, 89, 168 and Virginia Lakes Rd, my new air filter is higher than original slight a little bit, caused the air cleaner lid can't seal, let hot air in engine bay get sucked in, I guess it's probably make the high altitude air density problem worse. The next day, I made a gasket with shop towels to seal the lid. I feel it performs better, but since I was grouped with my friend, I can't do the test on the same route to see if it really make difference. ========== My vehicle: 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado, 454TBI (L19)+4L80E, with towing package, 178k miles. Purchased used at 150k miles. Engine was rebuilted at 75K miles, which is the only known thing, assuming other things are stock, transmission and torque converter are factory original and weresn't rebuilted. New air filter, Engine oil changed at 175k (Mobil full synthetic), transmission oil changed at 150k. Coolant / water is 60%/40%, new radiator cap, no boil happened. (Prestone for GM, orange color) New spark plugs & wire, ignition coil, ignition control module, fuel filter, fuel pump, thermostat at 150k (right after I purchased it). //edit: O2 and MAP sensor are also new, ACDelco. Base ignition timing is 8 BTDC, factory is 4. Load: 1 person (me), camping gears, road emergency kit and 2 boxes of tools for emergency, no trailer. Fuel: Chevron or Shell 91.

Did you checked ignition control module (ICM)? My mechanic told me it may fail after very long time sitting. My 94 Suburban with 454 TBI used to have a failure ICM, but symptom is not same with you. It sometime suddenly make the engine wrong timing, or simply stall when vehicle was moving on highway. Just a reminder.

1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 454TBI Mileage=155,000 Factory setting: 4BTC Everything is stock. Searched on internet, looks like some people set it at 8BTC or even 12BTC to get more torque and better MPG. But seems like different year have different program, same setting on some year it runs good, some not. I only use #91 gas from Shell or Chevron. #91 gas allow more BTC, right? Anyone have recommend about BTC setting? Most time running light, only me in it with some tools weight no more than 100lbs. On a test run from San Jose (CA) via I680N, I580N, CA120E, CA99S, CA140E, to Mariposa(CA), cruse at speed limit, most 65MPH, CA140 is 55MPH, most flat, get 13MPG in average. Plan to tow an utility trailer with a fully loaded truck camper on it (I live in the camper).

Did you checked and cleaned idle control valve? And if EGR open when idle can also cause rough idle. But if you say it seems weak while driving, maybe not ICV and EGR.

In fact, I've already expect something would happen, it's in very good shape, only 150K miles, but only sell $1750. While other sellers on Craigslist, I remembered a 1995 C2500, bad paint and lost the 3rd row of seat, dare to price over $4000. I have seen it on Craigslist for about 1 month, the SMOG check is 3 months ago, and their signature on title is 6 months ago, they have tried to sell it for long time. But my mechanic is 100% sure there is no big problem, just buy it, it's a good deal. He knows this engine very well. His shop used to serve American vehicles, but now mainly bodywork and Asia's mechanic . I think I am very lucky to know my mechanic.

When traffic light turns green, I kicked the throttle pedal, finally, this time, I got the power that a 454 supposed to give me, I almost cried. ======= 1994 Chevy Suburban Silverado K2500 454 L19 TBI 4L80E 153K miles ======= Months ago, I posted several topic (2 or 3) about it stall and knock sound under the floor, while cruising on highway. Well, the "highway" include GGB (Golden Gate Bridge).? 94' 454 stall while driving and knock sound under the cab 94'454 stall again, after change fuel pump Take note that I am actually completely a newbie, new driver (2 years), new vehicle owner, and new to America. So maybe some thing in my topic is wrong, but I don't tend to misleading. Shattered catalyst After the GGB stall, I found its power is weaker than before, and sounds like the exhaust is blocked, and when drive next to a vehicle or wall, I can hear air bleeding sound. Then got MIL code 32, EGR, however I can't find any problem on EGR system. This 454 engine use Linear EGR system, the valve is controlled by ECM directly, no vacuum pipe. I tried to remove air filter, to make it performs better, then find the blocked-exhaust sound become louder. Then one day the stall happened again, I found the knock sound sounds more like opening a soda can. So I visited a muffler stop, turns out the catalyst is shattered, quite big loss. ? Since I don't have enough money for a catalyst, and it may be shattered again, so I asked them to put a steel pipe instead as a temporary manner. After that, the compressed air sound is disappeared, the blocked-exhaust sound is lighter but still there, and the performance is better but still weak. So shattered catalyst blocked exhaust, caused air bleeding sound. And caused extremely high pressure in EGR system, too much exhaust injected into intake manifold when EGR is open, caused ECM think EGR have problem, light MIL and sending code 32. Fired chip in ICM (ignition control module ) The last time it stalls, at a quiet place, I finally figured it out that it feels and sounds like wrong timing, and when press throttle pedal, it back fires, and the harder press the pedal, the louder the sound is, very loud. And when it back fires, I can feel shock on throttle pedal. I told this to my mechanic, he told me to replace the ICM. He said back to old days, he replaced many of it. He suggested me to purchase new one, because it's cheap, even from ACDelco, and this thing usually break down for years parked vehicles, vehicles in junk yard usually parked for years. I opened the metal cover of old ICM, find one of chips is black, oil or something around it is dark brown, the metal cover supposed to be glued to the plastic shell, but the gap near the black chip is open, so it's clear that the chip was exploded. After I changed the module, 3K+ miles so far, including 2 round trip from San Jose to Yosemite, stall never happened, I think the stall problem is officially solved. So the broken ICM caused wrong timing, and stall. "Knock sound" is actually backfire, the exhaust is under floor, so I felt it's knock sound under floor. Back fire caused huge pressure burst in exhaust, then transferred to intake manifold and throttle body via EGR system, caused shock on throttle pedal. Thank god this didn't ignite the gas-air mixture, or my trouble gonna be bigger.? Wrong base timing That's NOT all folks! I found it still very weak, on I680, the climb at east of Fremont, it even can't maintain 60MPH! WTF?? At this time, what I have done on it: Fueling system: New Delphi fuel pump, capable of over 60PSI; New fuel filter, ACDelco; Fuel injector, tested and cleaned; Fuel pressure regulator, changed new spring, 30PSI; Air intake system: New air filter, ACDelco; Ignition system: Distributor cleaned; New ICM, ACdelco; Full assembly of distributor and ICM from junk yard as spare part. New spark plugs, wires and ignition coil, ACDelco. Cylinder pressure: I forgot reading, but within normal range. I pulled out the distributor for cleaning and ICM change reason, but when I put it back, I tried to find the timing mark. However, only engine block have the mark, the distributor don't have mark from factory, only a mark made by the ex-owner's mechanic, and it turns out it's wrong. So I tried to do base timing. I borrowed ignition timing light from my mechanic. But I can't find the "timing connector". At that time, I thought cold start and idle is running at base timing. So you guess it, runs over 20 degree ******. Then one day, I read my shop manual carefully, find out cold idle is NOT base timing, and only when the "timing connector" disconnected, the engine runs at base timing. However I can't find the connector, then after some dig on internet, I finally find it: inside the cab, passenger side, by the side of the blower motor, a single pin connector, tan with single black stripe lead, that's it. It's a bit far from "adjacent to the distributor".? Then I borrowed the timing light again, do the base timing, hit the road again, the result, on I680, maintain 70MPH easily, like I write at beginning of this topic, I almost cried! Just recently days, it even reached over 90MPH when climbing! Yeah it's speeding too much, but you know the traffic flow on highway is a bit crazy after reopen, probably due to people lock in their home for too many days. ======================================================= So That's all folks, I currently focus on renew my truck camper, including solar panel, painting, bathroom convention, jack system rebuilt, then maintenance on the 1996 Ford F250xl, 350 engine, and convert to dually, create a "FAKE F350". ? Then come back, I found the A/C compressor is dead, my mechanic suggested me to get one from junk yard, because most of them from car part shop are rebuild in China, you know what, even I am Chinese, I always avoid "China".?