May be it IS different key? My 94' Chevy Suburban K2500, 96' Ford F250xl, and my company's 98' GMC Savana 2500, they all have 2 different keys for ignition and door locks. I think 2 keys is not bad. I store the ignition key in the cab, attach the door key on my key ring. Every time I drive my Suburban or F250, just put the door key with key ring in my pocket after open the door, then grab the ignition key to start driving. I never worry about lock my key in my vehicle. A mechanic told me the key with heavy key ring swing around can cause ignition lock cylinder abrasion.
Thank you again. Gonna inspect them tomorrow, I just drive it to pickup its ignition system parts from O'reilly, still hot now, and still weak power and dump air sound along the road. According to my shop manual and actual vehicle, seems like its EGR valve is controlled by ECM directly (liner egr valve), no vacuum tube. I almost tend to convert it into non-ECM carburetor system, since TBI is very similar to carburetor. But I am afraid it is not so simple because the TCM (Transmission Control Module) may use data from ECM (like rpm, throttle position, etc.) to control shifting.
Golden Gate Bridge, what a perfect place to have your vehicle stalls on. ======================== This is not the 1st time it stalls, see: 94' 454 stall while driving and knock sound under the cab ======================== Before this fault down, I have changed the fuel pump (thanks to <riverbanks>), the original one is weak, I can easily block the fuel pipe with thumb, I think it is almost fail. Changed a new one, very strong, I can't block the fuel pipe with thumb. ======================== Model= 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado Engine= 454 TBI Transmission= AT Fault down des. : Location= Veterans Blvd. tunnel NB, Golden Gate Bridge(GGB) NB, Alexander Ave. NB, Calif.; Transfer case pos.=2H Coolant temp.= around 210(heated up), normal operation temp., enough; Engine Oil= normal pressure, enough, just changed (incl. filter); Trans. oil= enough, just changed(incl. filter); Fuel= enough, #87 from Chevron or Shell, I only fuel my vehicles in these 2 brand, I've burnout old fuel, now is new fuel in tank; Symptom= engine stall, hear knock sound from under the cab. Veterans Blvd. tunnel: attempt to shift to N then crank, crank no start, stop on drive way (no emergency stop area) shift to P, crank, start, shift to D(O/D Off), continue the road. GGB: multiple time of stall, after some times of stall, found the engine sounds like intake or exhaust jammed, and very weak power. Alexander Ave.: stall when down hill with O/D off, but back normal later. Inspection at break down site: Air cleaner is okay, filter is new, fuel pump relay contact is okay. Inspection at home : OBD scanner get DTC 54 and 32. ===== Current status=sounds like intake or exhaust jammed, and power is weak; when drive next to a wall or something, can hear the sound like bleed pressure of a tire, this sound can't be heard when the vehicle is not moving. I gonna check ignition system, incl. distributor, coil, spark plugs and wires, to check if there are any bad contact, but I suspect bad contact can't cause this problem. I am afraid one more thing have broken while on GGB .
In my understanding (OBD-II), some vehicles use both up and down stream sensor to control fuel trim, some use upstream only. The way to tell is look at Live Data via OBD scanner, if STFT (Short Term Fuel Trim) of sensor 2 (STFT B1S2 or STFT B2S2) reads 99.x%, that means the vehicle only use upstream sensor to control fuel trim. STFT=99.x% means this the data form sensor don't contribute to fuel trim control, as you say, only used to tracking how well the cat's are working. If it's data acts similar with sensor 1 (STFT B1S1 or STFT B2S1), up and down around 0%, that means the vehicle use both sensor to control fuel trim.
About the fuel pump relay, the original one looks okay, the socket and the feet of relay are okay, no sign of problem, and I tried to give 12V to coil, it acts normally, and the circuit on and off are also act normally. Just have the filter changed. For fuel pressure, I don't have the tool to measure the fuel pressure, so I tried another way. Loose the nut for the fuel injector's input pipe, use jump wire on fuel pump relay socket to manually activate fuel pump, I can see fuel come out. According my shop manual, the 454 engine should have 26-32psi, that's about a car's tire pressure, but I see the fuel come out very soft, not like 26-32psi. So looks like I need to change fuel pump? I gonna visit local junk yard this weekend to have some practice for take out tank and pump.
Yes, I am suspecting this. I have read this section in the shop manual, seems like it need an adapter to insect before and after the fuel filter, and if change fuel pump, gonna need much job because this need to take the fuel tank. Maybe I can change fuel filter first? Though I think faulty fuel filter can cause power reduce but can't cause stall. My Ford F-250 used to have fuel filter problem when I got it.
Model= 1994 Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado Engine= 454 TBI Transmission= AT Fault down des. : Location= Albany, Berkeley, Calif., I80E; Trans. pos.= D (O/D Off); Transfer case pos.=2H Last operation= OD --> D, fully release throttle pedal; Speed= around 40 mph; Coolant temp.= around 210(heated up), normal operation temp., enough; Engine Oil= normal pressure, enough, just changed (incl. filter); Trans. oil= enough, just changed(incl. filter); Fuel= enough, #87 from Chevron or Shell, I only fuel my vehicles in these 2 brand, I've burnout old fuel, now is new fuel in tank; Symptom= engine stall, hear knock sound from under the cab. Attempt 1: shift to N then crank, crank no start, pull over, shift to P. Attempt 2: crank, start, shift to D(O/D Off), accelerate, around 40mph, stall and knock sound again, pull over, shift to P. Attempt 3: crank, start, shift to OD, accelerate with little throttle, around 40mph, stall with knock sound again, pull over, shift to P. Inspection at break down site: crank, start, noticed check engine light is on, press throttle pedal to 2000 then 3000 rpm, no knock sound, inspected engine driving belt area, belt and all pulleys are okay. Inspection at home (Towed): OBD scanner get DTC 54. Inspected drive shaft for both front axle and rear axle, no loss. Repair attempt= Change: fuel pump relay (as DTC 54), spark plugs, ignition wires, ignition coil (noticed serous oxidation on the terminal to distributor), all from AC Delco, OE or above product line, purchased via O'reilly or Autozone store. Clean: distributor, all terminals (outer for ignition wires and inner for roter), rotor. Current status=normal. Other info. maybe useful=I found a maintenance label on wind screen, its next maintenance supposed to be on 05/22/2014 at mileage 153,000. But now is early 2020, 151,000, so most time it was just sit there. Question= Is this only the fuel pump relay? What is the knock sound? Is there any thing I should inspect or replace a new one?
Tom_1991 changed their profile photo
I currently don't have enough tools and equipment to do big jobs, so I gonna go to a trusted shop to change engine and transmission oil first. For blue tooth, I currently use an FM transmitter, most time in local driving it's not bad, but have big issue during long distance driving: some time local radio station will interference when it happened to have same frequency with my transmitter. I have to find a safe place to stop, change frequency for both transmitter and onboard radio, then back on the road. And if you are lucky enough, you gonna have to stop again in the very next city with very same reason. I plan to get a blue tooth device that provide external mic and audio output, so it can work with onboard stereo system via a cassette adapter. I don't like to swap the onboard stereo system with modern entertainment system, the reason: 1 most ones I have seen on other vehicles or auto part shops are cheap crappy Made in China, low sound quality, poor power amplifier, very annoying flashing RGB LED, too complex operation, etc. When I have to drive these cars for long distance, I prefer to take my GE 3-5263D boombox with several cassette tapes or simply a cassette adapter, place it on passenger seat, and its size is just right for seat belt! 2 they don't have same style with other part of interior, especially on my Suburban, the cassette deck and equalizer, the radio and sound channel controller, and the amplifier are located at different place. 3 I like to retain original equipment, modify with OEM parts, reason? Like above, same style. And I like 70s, 80s, and 90s things, that's why I have the GE 3-5263D boombox (purchased on eBay, I guess it is older than me, I was born in early 1991) and still play actual tapes contain newly composed or original 80s sythwave musics.
Allow me to introduce myself, my name is Wile E Coyote, GENIUS Tom Alright, so here is Santa Clara, California. This is my 94' Chevy Suburban K2500 Silverado. 454 engine. Just purchased from a gentleman in Los Altos Hills , only $1,750! Runs good, SMOG passed! All 3 sets of keys, owner manual, and even a self-introduce cassette tape! The first time I saw its cassette deck, I thought it was 8-track, He wrote in the ad on Craigslist, he sold it because don't drive it often. I found a maintenance label on wind screen, its next maintenance supposed to be on 05/22/2014 at mileage 153,000. but now is early 2020, 151,000, so most time it was just sit there. So maybe I should change engine and transmission oil Now it have some little problems, I think I can fix some of them, maybe just a visit of Pick-n-Pull (junk yard). 1 Check engine light is on, code is 35, its idle speed is about 1,200 rpm, even it have heated up. // Fixed, mouse bited vacuum tube for idle control, just replace, now it is around 800 rpm; 2 ABS light on, forgot the codes, many codes. // Fixed, get an ABS model in Pick-n-Pull; 3 Brake feels slip, I heard a mechanical said brake pad or shoe also have its time, if a car sit there for years, it will harden, caused brake slip, so still need to be replaced; 4 AWD not work, transfer case is operateable, but 4x4 light don't light. //Fixed, AWD actuator shorted, get one in Pick-n-Pull; 5 Dash board back light don't light when head light is on. // Fixed, fuse problem. 6 Low beam will off when high beam is on, and I plan to swamp into the 4-small-glass-lights design on 89'-92', I have got parts from Pick-n-Pull, just wiring job it will done; 7 Rear speaker sounds terrible, and one was blown, suspect to be faulty amplifier; 8 The inner door handle of drive door is broken. // Fixed, Pick-n-Pull. Oh, any one have its MPG data for 454 engine? I can't find it on internet, they all about 350 engine. I plan to have a Bay Area round trip , the route is: Santa Clara -[US101S]-> Gilroy -[ US101N, I280N, CA1N ]-> San Francisco -[ US101N ]-> San Rafael -[ I580S, I80W ]->Oakland -[ I880S ]-> San Jose -[ US101N ]->Santa Clara, about 200 miles , if it runs well, I gonna drive it to Yosemite Valley. ============================== About me: I am from China, live here for 3 years. Unlike other Chinese people or Asian people here, they prefer Japanese cars or European cars, but I said I will only own American cars. I said I come to American because I love America, American cars is part of culture American people proud of, I must experience it. Especially the time I driven a Ford F-150, 351 engine, I said I will not only own American cars, but also a V8 truck! I like the moment when people on street or other cars look at me with a surprise eyes. A Chinese or Asian people drive a old weathered big V8 powered American cars, trucks or vans, this is an unexpected combination. I guess this also happened on the ex-owner of this Suburban, I guess he expected the buyer to be a White or Mexican, he would never expect an Asian people. lol This Suburban is the 3rd vehicle I purchased, the very first one is a 96' Ford F-250, 351 engine, then 99' Dodge Caravan SE , the Caravan was sold to my work mate in order to get money for this Suburban, I will buy it back when he no longer want it, or he need money for other thing. Because some time, like in downtown San Francisco, or Costco parking lot in peak time, F250 and Suburban are too big, a smaller Caravan is way handy at these situation.
Most OnlineNewest Member
Who's Online 141 Members, 1 Anonymous, 2,630 Guests (See full list)
- Marty Harrison
- f8l vnm
- Front Runner
- Peter Gill
- Nick G
- Cool J
- Budman Jones
- Sask Farmboy
- Chris Callanan
- Ryan O'Rourke
- Robert Carey
- Kyle's AT4
- EPIC CAJUN
- Brent D
- 14 Silvy
- Brian Pagliaro
- Colby Peek
- Greg Neumann
- Benjamin Henderson
- H-town Silver Bullet