Sharpz

its possible but not likely. If I had one guess it would be you have a pocket of air that is the culprit. When you go for your bleeding round next time, with cap off overfill container, and truck at idle as the truck warms up a bit squeeze the top hose a bit, with two hands like you are trying to force coolant through the water pump. you will see the reservoir push level push up. Make sure the truck is up to temp and no bubbles before putting the cap back on, dont be afraid to cycle this process multiple times to make sure the air is completely out.

maybe its just the picture here, but your metal looks dirty as all get out. I dont know about you, but anytime Ive tried to weld dirty/rusty/gunky metal the welds wouldnt stick, or did a poor job. If you havent cleaned the places you are welding and where you are grounding I suggest you do so also dont be afraid to clean of a piece of frame within 12 inches of where you plan on welding that arm back, and weld a 3/4 bolt to the frame, so you can clamp to it. If you have cleaned the places already, and its just the pictures that show it gunky, then disregard.

a few suggestions. 1st check your clutch fan. 2nd make sure you get all of the air out of the system or it will continue to overheat. Sometimes when redoing the whole system it can take some time. 3rd make sure the hoses are not collapsing

I am guessing you think this forum is an official GM forum where as techs from GM are paid to be here? This is a forum for GM owners who (some) happen to work for GM. I get your rant and why you would be upset, but isnt this all on you? You bought a used truck I am guessing, and didnt do your due diligence to look over what you bought. If you didnt know that is why you bring someone who does, like a mechanic. If you want guidance on how to replace the pistons, that information can be found here. You can get other help with your truck too....... but I would suggest since you seem not to kn

That is good to know. What I cant figure out is when I had my 2010 2500 HD I never once saw the voltage gauge move below 14. I bought it with 320 miles on it. It had the 6.0 in it.

If you just search 2002 Silverado dual climate, blend door actuator replacement, plenty of videos come up.

2 things, one the dual climate actuator is a known issue for these trucks. You may need to replace them. Also the resistor is likely your problem, but before you change it out, try something. Remove the protective trim cover that covers the blower motor/resistor. If you can get to the resistor plug, try to unplug it and clean up the connections, you may need to remove the blower motor first. I have a 99 (new style) and a 04 and both did the resistor thing, but after just cleaning up the connection, they worked as they should.

So since you trust this mechanic, I would recommend getting your belt tensioner changed, as well as a new belt. If that doesnt fix your issue, return the tensioner and put your old belt on the shelf in case something happens to the new one. These alts have a built in regulator so the chances of two being bad are slim to none. I would normally say listen to the dealer, but I dont agree with them on the volt drops. If that were true, it would do it when the truck was new too, not after parts are changed. The only thing I can't attest to though is that you are running now 30 mor

lol yeah that is someone adding that for sure. No way that is factory. And it looks like a pretty bad job at that. Do you have a remote start aftermarket in your truck?

I am curious why he put a bigger alt in? Why not the original? The belt tensioner when wore can cause this issue too. At this point it would just be throwing guesses out there. If were my truck, I would take it back to where they replaced my original and ask them to put the size alt back in that came out, unless of course you are running more then normal things such as an inverter or something like that.

clunking between reverse and drive is a good indication of u-joint wear. Idealy you would change all out at the same time, same as wheel bearings and cv joints......... but the front shaft probably in reality will go twice as long as your main shaft, and that is the one you should focus on. Obviously check all when under the truck.

I have not seen a 13 to 03 C. console swap done before. I have seen the rear seat swap, that involves making brackets. I am not sure why the 13 center console is the direction you are going, instead of say an 06 center console, but I would recommend you clear your center console, then go to a pull a part and ask them if you could check for fit one from a 13. I am guessing it would not fit, or look like it belonged. Here is one from your generation truck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164809727997?hash=item265f6cdffd%3Ag%3A8RkAAOSwt5Rgdc3O&fits=Year%3A2006|Model%3ASilverado+15

sounds like a bad connection issue, possibly a ground issue. Only way to be sure is to remove the panels and clean up the connections, check for corrosion, and possibly low volts. Start with the drivers door, and with the panel off and having cleaned the connections see if it helps your issue, if not move to the passenger door, and clean that one, then once again check to see if the issue has been resolved.

99 percent chance its your U-Joints for your main drive shaft, probably at the tranny side. W/ the truck in neutral, and wheels blocked get under the truck and check for play.

the best advice I can give you is leave your stock wiring alone. Purchase an adapter that plugs directly into that harness and then you only need to only to wire your adapter for your radio, which they will give you (usually) Here is something you will need most likely if you want everything to work as it should. The first is the interface adapter https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP5-GM11-Replacement-Interface-Navigation/dp/B07W8X76FL/ref=asc_df_B00DHUA9VA/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312050280935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10908300850449398951&hvpone=&hvptw