Everything posted by Sharpz
it sounds like you have many issues ongoing. Making sure all of your grounds are hooked, is the first thing. I am not sure of the compatibility of your bcm and ecm with a 2000, vs 2005. It may be a matter of just taking it to your local gm dealership and getting things reprogrammed. I am not sure what frame up means, but if that means you got a frame, and a cab........... from a 2005, then what exactly did you take from the 2000?
gyour tranny probably is bad. You can get a bottle of that anti tranny slip stuff and see if it helps you a bit. If it does there is a good chance your tranny is shot. If it were a wire problem outside the tranny I doubt it would shift in any gears. Lucas transmission fix is supposed to be a good product.
It could be a shift solenoid for sure. Only way to find out is to either replace it or have it replaced. There are plenty of Youtube videos for your truck that walk you through that process if you want to attempt to do it yourself.
Did the dealership remove the amp and new radio your son put in and then try to reprogram the fob? How proficient at wiring in all of those things is your son? I don't think you will get much help here with the issue you are describing sorry to say.. If a certified GM dealerships service department turned your truck away, something has to be terribly wrong or not obvious. I am surprised they didnt recommend changing the BCM. I have seen people do damage (mostly on older cars) by wrongfully hooking aftermarket radios up. Dead shorts, parasitic draws, fried wires etc. The problem with trying to trouble shoot what someone else has done is not knowing where to start.. Most people will try to throw the most obvious things at the problem, but when that doesnt work, its onto the next item. Your problem could be nothing more then a frayed wire that is losing contact, but its extremely difficult to trace down.
For the most part the simple answer is Yes. Pay attention to the year truck you have vs what you are looking at. Just because the tranny bolts up, doesnt mean its going to work without doing major mods, such as harness conversions etc.
Cheyenne was only a base model truck C and K. C being a base 2 wheel, and K being a 4x4. There is talk about bringing the name back to the states, but really its just a base silverado so really not any point to it, other then the emblem name which you can get online if you are into that sort of thing. If you want to see this bad ass new, check out this
That would be the cheaper route to go for sure, as long as you get someone who knows what they are doing and can if need be reprogram your bcm you would be fine. Especially as long as you keep it away from the guy with the hammer and screw driver.
I personally like the hyper flash on my actual lights outside the cab and what they do, not so much in the cab but I'll trade off for that.
While in auto 4x4 there isnt power persay to the front axles but they are on demand or activated in case you are in a situation that say you are cruising highway speeds, come to a hill that might be a bit slippery, the auto 4x4 detects that you are losing grip, and automatically puts power to the front axle, where as if you didnt have this feature activated you would need to push the button (which you should do anyway) for 4 hi. It is sort of like a clutch. A slight moan is humming is completely normal, at least its been for all of my trucks when I have been in auto 4 or 4 hi.
what they look like
I have also used those exact bulbs for a year now, without issue. I also changed out my running lights with LEDs with no issues. When I did change out my parking lights, brake lights, marker lights ect, the only issue I found was that the turn signals flash faster, but they work fine. I liked the looks so much I even changed out the fog lamps to the dfrg led swap. Combined they give the truck an upgraded look, and very good brightness.
I am just curious why you cant change the oil pressure sensor and filter? I get that its cold, but this is an easy job, and the part isnt that much money. Hell even a off brand sensor is better then no sensor at all, especially if its cold. Waiting till spring seems like a long time for this part. Most cases when these sensors go bad they actually leak oil, so keep an eye on it
pf46e is the ac delco filter. I use Mobile one, full synthetic high mileage oil from walmart, and have never had a problem with it. I also get the Marvels mystery oil from there as well. I run 5 quarts of 5w30 full synthetic to 1/2 qt marvels each change. I dont have a lifter tick, although I did before I started using the marvels, but only for about 7 miles or so, then it would go away.
Questions need to be answered or more information needs to be given for anyone to give you a good assessment of what the issue causing your tick might be. , At a glance dirty lifters could be the cause, and there are plenty of youtube videos that go over how to solve that. I would like to know, how long has it been since you changed the oil, what oil are you using, and filter. If you only have say 1k on the truck since your last oil change, and you used a good quality oil and filter, it doesnt look dirty or milky, and the level is where it needs be, then doing the lifter clean up might be your best way to go. ' If i am in your shoes,I am going to remove 1 qt of oil from the pan, then I am going to add 1 qt of marvel mystery oil and run it for a few weeks. Then I am going to change the oil with a good synthetic oil, with an ac delco filter. I am going to add 1 qt of marvel mystery oil with that oil change, being sure not to exceed the total amount for your truck. You can test the Oring on the pick up tube issue, by adding oil while your truck is warm. A qt should be plenty. If the tick goes away then this might be your issue, and you can proceed accordingly. Be sure to do this for test purposes only and do not run your truck this way. Doing it just before you change your oil would make the most sense.
I have no idea how long the 4l60e will last. I have not had any problems with them and have put a lot of miles on them, where as I know lots of people who have had to get it replaced with as few as 150k on them. Currently my daily driver has over 320k on it and shifts fine. As for the oil leak, a quart in between changes isnt that big of a deal and I wouldnt suggest dropping the tranny just to change the rms. If you start having problems with the tranny slipping or going out, it will need to come out to either 1) be swapped for a new one/rebuilt one, or 2) for that one to be rebuilt itself. Once the tranny is out, it is a very easy process to change the rms in your truck. As long as you have a few basic tools and a torque wrench you could easily do the seal, and no mechanic should be charging you full price to do it either once the tranny is out. At most for an experienced mechanic once the tranny and torque converter are out, it shouldnt take any more then an hour to remove the rms and replace. It should sit for 24 hours so that the RTV silicon sets up before adding oil (jmo), but its an easy job once the tranny is out.
lol no. My truck doesnt make it when its not cold outside, like 25 or below. Once if it makes the noise it wont do it till maybe the next cold day or after sitting a while. It really makes the noise if I use the step up/rock skids to get in the truck on cold days. Mine doesnt make it enough to even worry about it, but I do remember the first few times it happened, I honestly thought something broke it was that loud.
in my case, it went from a rainy 55 degrees, to down to 14 degrees in like 8 to 9 hours. With over 320,000 on the truck, and original bushings cab mounts etc. its going to make a little noise. In my case shocks are bilstein 5100's and less then 20k on them.
my truck does this too and since it was down to the coldest day of the year so far it does it more pronounced. I am guessing cab mounts are the culprit. After running the truck for a bit, no such noises. If it sits for a few hours, I hear it again. I dont think its anything to worry about since it is a one off, and not a continuous noise.
if you have some tools, just disconnect the front drive shaft till you get where you are going. I am not going to insult your intelligence and ask if you are following the proper procedure for neutral.
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