Sharpz

I didnt realize the write up I suggested from this site, came from your write up bud. Ive read both and it surely did. I am glad you posted that info on this thread or I might never have known.

even with out the drain hole, you just unbolt the pan (evenly and slowly) if you do it right you can prevent a huge mess, but its not perfect. You can also purchase a new pan relatively cheap (last I looked) with a drain screw. https://www.amazon.com/Transmission-Chevrolet-Silverado-Suburban-Workhorse/dp/B07GJF6WYN/ref=sr_1_2?_encoding=UTF8&dchild=1&qid=1630754314&s=automotive&sr=1-2&vehicle=2004-48-548-296-29-77-6-8-7910--9--145--2&vehicleName=2004+GMC+Sierra+1500 you will have to verify that you have the 4l80e trans. Gasket and filter sold separately. There are also plenty of you tube videos on "how to" if you didnt find what you needed in the video I suggested to you.

in older my 1999 new style, I did hear a rattle but what it was came down to one of two things, a broken clip that I found, and two the rod that locks/unlocks the door. I replaced them both and the rattle went away.

I would suggest not getting a flush persay but do the slow drain method, using the cooler line. This method does replace all the tranny fluid with new, and also doing this method the filter would be changed, not flushed. Here is a write up/how to from one of the site members. https://www.truckmodcentral.com/threads/how-to-flush-your-transmission-on-a-gmt800-gm-truck.4699/

I would look to making sure you have good connections, and that your pump is putting out the proper fuel pressure. Living in the north east I imagine these connections can get pretty corroded. Especially if they still put these modules where your spare tire is located.

its a guessing game from a forums to be honest. If you want a guess though, I would say you have a bad PCM. If you replace it you will need to get it programed/flashed to your vin, and specs. You might want to post that info too.

There are many places where grounds are used. Some are on the frame, fire wall etc. If you are positive that its a ground issue, you can utilize the frame if need be, but it would be recommended that you ground to a place that will get the least amount of corrosion. Before you do any of that though, you may make sure that the plug in connection is not the culprit. You can check your wires about 3 feet from where they plug in. If you are getting a good solid ground there, then it probably is at your connection.

That is very impressive. Obviously you take care of your truck, and that is a credit to you. Bottom line who knows? I had a 95 gmc w/ a 5.7 that had over 600k on it but the body rusted out around it and it became unsafe to drive. Never had a problem with the motor turning over and starting though. I would expect since you had this new, you might very well have the same experience.

first thought, you said you needed a cap, rotor and plugs.................. how did you know you needed these? Try putting back your old cap and rotor, and see if your issue is solved. Plugs......... make sure they are gapped right and they will last a very long time.

yeah that is odd for sure.

I am sorry your bilstein experience wasnt up to par. I went with the 5100's on my Z71 and was kicking myself for not doing it sooner. That being said, you have to find what is good for you. For me I found my truck improved in keeping my tires to the road in almost any condition, which made for better cornering, stopping and take offs. I also noticed that I didnt have as many hydroplaning issues in wet weather. Can I ask if you set the shocks before you installed them? It just seems very odd that it felt like you had no suspension at all, and that is most always the case with worn shocks.

since you are clueless but want to purchase this look, why not just go to a tire and rim shop, and let them show you what to get some even have a virtual experience with your type truck and the looks you will get from different rims.

I understand that you checked wires/wiring and you are probably spot on that they are connected properly. The problem is sometimes things internally in your radio start acting up, especially aftermarket ones. I had a blaupunkt (sp) radio I installed that started doing this, I replaced the radio and all was well. I know it was the radio because I bought the same radio and used the already wired harness and it worked flawlessly. Plugged the old one back in just to see and it wouldnt do what it needed to.

The reason these are there is to maximize air flow to your radiator. Behind these holes is a rubber type flap on a angle so as you drive the air is forced into/through your radiator.

no sure what the cause of your issue is. You can try a few things. 1) make sure both hoses going into your hvac and out are hot. If one is hot and the other is not, your heater core is plugged. 2) make sure your blend door actuator is working properly. You can try to unplug the fuse for your AC and see if your truck heats up then. Also make sure your truck gets up to temp, and that you dont have a stuck open thermostat.

There isnt that much difference in weight maybe a few hundred pounds which isnt anything for the suspension. If you wanted to be positive throw some bilsteins on your truck. The filler neck would secure just under the platform, and there are various ways to anchor it. If you do the bed right, it will be as wide as your cab. Most people will go with trailer type lights for your tail lights and reverse. Making a custom rear bumper is also something you should look at. From being an old farm guy, we used to do these on c10s all the time, some things to consider when using boards. If you are rear ended there is a good chance these boards can become spears, so be careful how you lay them out. We would attach a custom front metal stop to the fronts, sides and back of the boards so the boards laid inside a track of angle iron. Also to note, a 4x4 pressure treated is actually only 3 1/2 inches and doesnt give you much room between your tire and the board. We always used rough sawn Oak and had them sawn 5x5 (actual) I suppose you could use a spacer to achieve the same height. All in all, if done right these look great, and a cool old school look, especially if you run wagon mags. Good luck and hope some of this gives you direction.

you should forgo doing any fuel pump replacement till you test the fuel pressure you have now. Why throw used parts at the problem? The problem could easily just be clogged injectors or various other fuel related issues. Do a compression test and while you have the plugs out, inspect them, also do a fuel pressure test

I would just take the gasket to a parts store, or make one.

https://www.gmpartsstore.com/-parts/gm-engine-air-intake-hose-adapter-25171042 This is the rubber that connects the two together, which is what seals the system from allowing dirty air flow and forces everything to come from your filter. The gaskets are likely just to keep the rubber from molding/sticking to the actual metal parts of your TB. You can just take those gaskets to napa, or a place that sells gaskets and they can either look for a size like that, or you can just purchase some gasket material and trace out the hole size and cut your own.

Thank you for the info, I am sure it will come in handy for some ol boy who runs into this.

You could put a little pipe dope on it or high temp teflon tape. It can't hurt and would serve two purposes 1) as a sealer, and 2) as an anti seize agent.

the reverse clunk isnt normal. Its a sign that you have a U-joint on your main shaft going bad. You can hear a transition to reverse but not a clunk. As Swathdiver said, a Motor mount sounds like a real good possibility and worth checking.

a few things to try. 1) test your fuel, make sure the gas is good, and doesnt have a bunch of water in it. 2) since you obviously have good pressure unplug your fuel pump fuse/relay do a dry crank. Then after a few dry cranks spray non chlorinated brake cleaner into your intake. If your truck runs this way, you are going to want to look into vacuum lines, and your timing.

you will want to test the fuel pressure to see what you are working with. I dont know much about the 4.3 but also check your map sensor and your throttle position sensor. You can find videos on how to check, or replace if need be.

might be your U-joints are bad to cause the shaking. Be sure you didnt damage any wires when your suspension dropped out.