Sharpz

blistein 5100's are a worthy upgrade from stock. I am not sure what you have on them now or how long they have been on. Be sure to purchase another serpentine drive belt or keep the old one in your truck/trailer just in case. Keeping fuses in the glove box and plenty of coolant is an essential for those trips. Also a few quarts of oil on hand wouldnt hurt.

new key cylinder. Its a common issue.

It could be the wrong plug, or just not gapped properly. It could also be faulty wires. If he kept his old plugs and wires, replace one plug at a time with one wire at a time, starting with the number 1 cylinder and making sure the wires are securely connected.

considering you have replaced this alternator 5 times, you might want to get those rechecked. Alternators have a built in voltage regulator for how much amps they put out, so very little on the truck body side can effect its short life span that you are experiencing. A dead short is possible, or a parasitic draw but I wouldn't expect that to ruin your alternator. You can try to remove a fuse at a time of non essential things like heater or ac, radio etc and see if this helps with your issue. If it were me based on how many miles you have run, and the amount of alternators you have put in, I would replace the belt tensioner with a new one, if it doesnt change your issue, take it back.

Make sure the belt tensioner is up to snuff. A loose belt can cause all sorts of issues. Also make sure your terminal connections are good and clean, take them off and check the inside where it meets the battery.

I really can't help you on your fob problem, as I dont have an 09, but I have seen plenty of people who complain because they got the wrong fob and couldn't get it to program. Hopefully that isnt your issue.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0135A4OF8/ref=au_as_r?_encoding=UTF8&Make=GMC|48&Model=Sierra 1500|548&Year=2004|2004&ie=UTF8&vehicleId=2&vehicleType=automotive not sure what grill you have there but just doing a quick search provided me with this grill and what it is compatible with.

I dont know of a bush fix. There are detailed steps to swap this part out though, it looks like that is your only option.

normal wear items that will start failing, include undercarriage items such as wheel bearings, cv axles, u- joints, brakes, rotors, ball joints and shocks. Engine components such as both drive belts, alternator, belt tensioners, water pump, thermostat, both top and bottom hoses, and the hoses that plug into your hvac system. So there are a lot of items Ive listed that will no doubt fail, some faster and more likely then others. So if I were you and you have a few grand lying around, I would start purchasing items and put them on your shop shelves. Start with things that will be needed to get your truck running with little effort, such as the Hvac hoses and allows you to do multiple things at once with the same procedure. When doing the Hvac hoses, install a new water pump, thermostat, top and bottom hoses. At this time inspect your fan clutch as this is another wear item. If it spins freely as if there isnt any resistance go ahead and replace it. I noticed you did a coolant change already, and front dif, rear dif, but didnt see you list your tranny. This is something that should be serviced as well. A new filter, is a must, and you could go with just changing the pan fluid, or you can do the complete system swap, that does not require a factory flush. There is a great informative write up about how to do that, and its highly recommended. If you want a great ride and a little more out of your trucks performance, I recommend getting the bilstein 5100 shocks, they are every bit worth the extra coin. Inspect your wheels for play or clicking, changing the wheel bearings and cv joints is really easy and will prevent headaches down the road, do both sides at a time, and be sure to replace your brakes and rotors when doing this project. Also inspect your ball joints at this time. Those are more labor intensive, and If they are in good shape I would wait till they start to fail before attempting this one. Have the u-joints on hand for your front shaft and rear shaft, and when you do a oil change with the truck in neutral check for play again wait till they start showing signs of wear before changing them. It really comes down to how much time, money and how big your shop is.

Okay, I see you have a 2500. Its a pretty easy search but here is a site that has various options for a winch mount. How hidden you want it will be the question. Also any half way decent fabricator can make you a mount in 30 - 90 minutes its not complicated. You may want to purchase a winch you would be interested in and just have a fabricator make you a mount if you cant find something already prefabbed. https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/winch-mounts/make/chevrolet/model/silverado-2500-hd

You should always adhere to the manufacturers instructions. https://www.ffcustoms.com/p-68560-gm-hidden-winch-mounting-plate-07-13-silveradosierra-1500-pu-1080.aspx This is one plate that does claim to mount to your factory setup. If you are just looking for a functional winch and its a "Just in case" thing, there are stand alone winches that are portable, they can hook to your tow hooks in the front, or your ball hitch in the back, you put them in a case when not using, and just require installing clamp ends for your battery.

I said it was possible, and it is, its just not practical. You can do a few things, download from this site a detailed wiring diagram, trace the wires involved, disconnect them completely cap them so there isnt any back feed or possible bleed or drain, then run a new power source from your fuse box using the appropriate fuse, and if it were me I would also run a separate ground, just to make sure there isnt any possibility of back feed. This option eliminates the dash lights coming on with your running lights, headlights, and you lose the dash dimming capacity that you have now. You might be able to install a dimming switch that might help you with that part, but I dont know of any for DC. The next option is to look into stand alone LED lights, and try to install them into your cluster backing and as you say put them on a switch. There are plenty of LED options and displays from places like WalMart, or most any autoparts stores. I think the 2nd option is the best choice. Good luck.

I have not experienced this issue in my 04 sierra w/ 300k on it. If this is such a common issue, surely there is a fix on you tube. My suggestion would be to replace the multi function switch even if with a used one and see if that fixes your issue. Because it is an electrical part most places wont take them back, so a used one might be the way to go.

of course you could always hard wire the dash, but not sure why having the running lights is a big issue? If you are worried that you might forget to turn them off, you would have the same issue with the dash lights.

it could be a lose wire, or a poor ground. That might actually be from the multifunction switch that controls your wipers, signals cruise etc. Since the problem is rare it will be extremely hard to know exactly what wire/wires or if it is that control. It could even be your actual cluster display. Ive read where the soldering can sometimes be faulty or break lose and cause some odd things to show. There are plenty of how to's to fix that issue.

You could always get you some non chlorinated brake clearer and spray into the intake. If your truck starts, and you have someone to help crank it, or you are really fast, spray it in to keep in running for a few. If your truck starts this way, you can eliminate spark. If you suspect it for being a relay, some of them in the power box are the same type. You could move a few around making sure to remember where you got them from to start, if no change then it eliminates that as a possibility. I have a 2004 gmc sierra, and have had no major issues with my truck, only normal wear items. I am pretty sure the 05, is the same system so not sure of what recalls you are talking about.

these tanks are super cheap and easy to change out. If you suspect it is leaking, I would just change it out. Make sure you get a new cap as well. When I replaced my water pump, apparently I didnt get all of the air out of the system, and it caused some of the coolant to be pushed out and my reservoir looked like yours. After another attempt at following the procedure of bleeding the system it never did it again.

In your case, since you are experiencing oil pressure issues, it would be one of the cheapest attempts at a fix. I would also change the oil, and filter at the same time even though you are only at 1000 mark.

I agree with the above. If you are spending all this money on body work in alaska where you have so much salt and whatever, why not just have the body shop do the work? I wouldnt go to a dentist for an implant, then go home and file it into shape.

If you know someone who has a similar truck, see if you can switch the bcm and maybe the PCM to see if this takes care of your issues. Id hate for you to have to keep replacing parts in hopes that you get lucky.

you could have a bad ecm and the grounds may test good, when cold, like when you leave it at your mechs shop and he will look at it later. Sometimes wires damaged take a little while to heat up, and when they do is when the problems start. Of course I would just be guessing this could be your issue.

This would be a dealership problem for sure, but make no mistake those mech shops could absolutely tell you what is wrong with your truck, they just want to replace parts that it might be first, which after eliminating parts eventually they would probably solve it. This could be an electrical issue, or maybe just a bad sensor. If you want helpful advice, you should try to be specific about when this truck shuts down and how often. Is it over a certain speed, does it do it only when you are driving, has any parts been replaced before this started, any other issues, have you had the truck plugged in to pull any codes?

as others have said, dont go putting too much faith into that cluster gauge.

That is awesome, thank you.

I know this has been covered, but before I attempt to tackle this (first time doing this) I was hoping someone has done this before, and can offer up some advice. I know flushing the transmission is a bad idea in most cases so that wont happen. What I am looking to do is the method of disconnecting the top tranny line on my radiator, inserting a fitting with clear hose to push out the old until I see the new, by adding new to the dipstick fill . I also plan on doing a trans filter replacement. So what my questions are 1) does anyone know what size fitting I need to insert in place of the top tranny line, and what thread type it is. 2) what is the procedure for exactly how to get the fluid pushed out. Ie does the truck have to be running, moving through gears or can it be shut off and just add fluid until it is clear? Also I understand this will remove the old fluid from the line/s themselves but should i also have the drain plug removed while I am doing this or should it be closed until I see good tranny fluid? 3) do I drain the tranny pan first, or should I wait till I get the line/s cycled out? 4)Lastly is ATF VI the one i should be using (2004 gmc sierra 5.3 4x4) and what brand filter should be put in this truck) Any help of detail instructions would be appreciated. I am trying this for the first time, because I think when I take the truck to the dealership, they only drain and change the filter in the pan. I dont think they do anything with the lines. They also told me I was good for 100k at the last change, but I read somewhere that it should be 50k.