Sharpz

Okay since I dont have the truck year that you do, I did some research. Your switch/sensor is built into the door latch assembly/actuator there are several youtube videos that describe the change out, but I cant find any for your specific year. If it is new then it should have taken care of your problem. Spraying up the lock assembly and cables, cant hurt anything. The odd part is you are not getting a driver door ajar message. I would think that would be one of the symptoms of a bad switch.

https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-D6066-Original-Equipment-Switch/dp/B000C9QJLI This would be the type switch. I am not sure if its the one for your year truck or not

It sounds like you have a stuck or sticking dome light switch. Remove the door panel and spray with WD40 or PB. Also make sure your dome light over ride switch is set to where it needs to be. I know you said it comes on with the passenger door, but just make sure. If you have replaced the drivers door control module I am pretty sure you have to reprogram that, but you will have to check further into that, as I dont have your year body style.

It does sound like warn bearings. If your 6.0 is a high mileage motor, it is likely the culprit. I am pretty sure your truck has a filter under the oil pressure sensor too. I didnt see where you said you changed that. You might want to replace it if you havent.

if it were a wheel bearing I would expect it to make noise all the time. Might be front shaft U-joints.

you could do that if you think that is where the PD is. Or since you dont use the truck anymore, go and buy your self a battery shut off for 13 dollars and just reset your clock when you are using it. https://www.amazon.com/Side-Battery-Master-Disconnect-Switch/dp/B001N72FES and the 2nd part of your question the answer is no, you cant change the hours or mileage as it is stored in the cluster, otherwise people would just shave off 100k before the sale.

What you need to make sure of is that you have a good ground all the way to the actuator, and to the shift motor. Jumping in a ground might be the way to go if not. It doesnt mean this is your problem, but once eliminated you can move on. Your issue to me does sound electrical so if you have an ohms meter, check what you are getting at these two plugs, and then at your switch also while engaging/disengaging. If these test good, then try disconnecting your battery for about 10 minutes and see if this problem goes away. The other thing is have you tested if this truck is going in an out of 4 wheel drive? Can you hear the motor engage?

yeah they are good, but you need plenty of throw past the end of the bolt for them to bite. The lip on your bolt might prevent that. Using a flat file you can file a flat spot or two on your bolt to let your vice grips get more bite, but if its giving you that much trouble a little heat on the coupling might be the only option. You have a better view then me, but from your picture it surely looks like a small pipe wrench would fit. The advantage of that is the more torque you put on the wrench the tighter it grips the bolt, and I cant imagine you will need much more then 1/4 to 1/2 turn before you would be able to just use an extractor.

at this point I would get you some decent sized vice grips and try to get it out that way, or maybe if you can get a pipe wrench over that bolt. Due to the amount of grease I wouldnt try a grinder, unless as a last resort. I am not sure how much room you have, or if that lip on the bolt will allow it, but there is a bolt extractor set available on amazon called the rocket socket, its a set of 13 extractors that are 3/8s drive impact socket capable. Its a good product, but you would need to spend about 70 bucks for it.

you have a picture?

If your front actuator is engaging properly and you have tested that, It kind of limits why this isnt working in 4x4 to the transfer case, since you have a manual shifter.

yeah that would suck. From what you have replaced already I am guessing you keep up with oil changes and fluid levels for that sort of thing but you really have narrowed down what the noise possible things could be.

If I remember from your other posts you are from alaska, I dont know if they use salt there but I would imagine they do. 1st when you took your front apart to change the bearings your rotors could have had rust on them. Some times its inside and you dont see it. If this is put back on without a proper cleaning, when you apply your brakes that rust gets wedged between the pads and rotor and it creates a sort of glazing effect, and you will get a very slight vibration as well as poorer breaking ability. Since the pads are the next cheapest thing to replace, I would replace them and have your rotors turned, or replaced. If you installed the axles correctly and torqued your bearings properly you would have eliminated all possible issues with your front end. From there it would be in your transfer case or transmission. Of course the vibration might just be crude on your rim, or a tire out of balance, but that noise would come from that.

Even though you dont think it smells like antifreeze , be sure to check very closely to the quick connect to your hvac system and the hose that attaches to it. I am going through this right now. I too have never had a leak, but recently have noticed a little water/coolant under the truck where the hvac radiator/heater core area would be. I tried to diagnose the issue but couldnt see any visible water leaking. Turns out after a few hours of driving, there would be ever so slightly mist/spray from the quick connect. Ive replaced it and so far no leaks. It is a common fail point for these trucks. Part # for quick connect 800-409 tool to remove it lisle 39400.

you have done extensive work on this already. If it were an easy fix it would have been done already. Locate the wire from where these originate, through your normal fuse box, and just rerun the wires, this way you are keeping the same fuse connections, and get power to what you need. There are many inline wire splicers that work well.

even if your truck doesnt have spark or fuel you should still be able to crank it for more then 3 seconds. it sounds like you have a possible loose ground or wire that isnt getting good connection, and heating up when in crank mode making poor contact but then cools and allows it to get enough contact to crank again. I would fix getting it to crank for as long as I wanted first, then move on.

universal joints and even your drive shaft can cause a slight vibration. The fact that you said it happens around 50 mph would normally tell me you have an unbalanced tire, but as you said you swapped them. Something you might want to try if you havent already is rotating the fronts to the back, to eliminate a bent rim. Just curious because I am not sure of the exact part names, you said you already changed your wheel bearings, and CV joints? They too can cause vibration. There are plenty of other issues that can cause vibration, from improperly installed CV joints, over/under tightened wheel bearings, mounts gone bad or broken, to just simple rust that might have got onto the rotors. Some more information might pin points your issue, such as does it go away at higher speeds? Does it do it when the roads are wet? Have you tried rotating your wheels from front to back? Did you replace the front end parts because of the vibration or did it start after you replaced those parts, and lastly are you running stock suspension, or lifted/lowered?

inspect your cluster gauge assembly if at all possible try plugging another one in to see if it gives you any issues. you can also make sure all of the grounds you can find are secure and have a good connection. If the first two check out, then check that your bcm doesnt have any solder issues. You can search bcm solder issues to see what I am talking about. If the bcm doesnt seem to have any solder issues, I would guess that you have a wire problem. When it heats up it starts giving fits, but nothing when its cold. I hope this helps you.

shouldnt your tuner friend be the one trying to fix this? Seems like his equipment shorted out the ecm.

how do you know the rear control modual you put in is good? Seems since you recently put that in would be the 1st place I would look. If you spliced wires in make sure you connected everything correctly. I am just guessing here, but I would think if it were a fuse issue, you wouldnt have power at all. If there are not control switches in the back, and only in the front, I would have that control module tested too. It sounds to me you have a short or parasitic draw somewhere, again I would check your work and then test that actual part first, then the front control module 2nd.

I dont think they do need to match. They need to communicate with each other, and I cant see why they wouldnt. Even if they did, I think it will only prevent the fuel pump from engaging and ignition to the starter, both of which can be bypassed rather easy. I think the biggest issue would be if you dont use every option available to the cady in your truck, such as side airbags, or whatever. This might throw error codes and prevent startup but I have no idea about all you are going to do with your swap, just keep that in mind if you plan on using the caddy bcm.

from what I understand the BCM (body control module) controls your electrical and features for the interior of your vehicle. If you take it to GM they are going to use your vin to do that. What your friend or contact is suggesting is swapping the BCM from the cady and in theory it should work if every option that came with the escalade is now in your truck. the PCM (powertrain control module) will be the one that controls how your engine and truck operates outside of the cab. Since you dont need both flashed or programmed when swapping one or the other I am guessing your PCM should still be good to your engine, and drive train, but the BCM should control the interior to the mated options/vin of your donor. Your remote start might be and issue, and your keyless entry also might be too.

I cant tell you if the fluid levels will make this message come up, but I do know a few things that can trigger this message. 1) the electronic switch if you have that option, 2) the ground connection located just behind the front drivers fender, and 3) the actuator.

most system manufacturers will give you a free wire diagram for you vehicle. If you cant find a diagram online, you might just visit your local pull a part and purchase the actual factory plugs with enough wires left to splice right back into your factory set up, and then just buy the adapter for your system.

I didnt know 4x4s had struts, but the front bilstein 5100 shocks I bought were 0-2 " so they would work for zero lift up to 2 inches.