Sharpz

In 1999 chevy silverado underwent a new body style change. Because the change happened you could get a 99 that looked like a 98, or have the new style. I dont know if you ment to say your body style is 1989 or if you meant to say 1998. If the former, it is obvious that the truck owner did a cab swap, If the latter then it is possible the k2500 used the same body style till after 2000. I am not sure if the K series follows the same as silverado.

As Brian said, check your blend door actuator. On my 99 new style it did that exact thing. I had to have the passenger side of the temp setting all the way down on cool, and the drivers side up 1/4 inch from that for it to blow cold on my side. If I didnt have it that way, a fair amount of times I would have to shut the truck off and hope it worked, that is till I discovered the 1/4 inch trick.

so yeah, now you are into some money. The 6.2 is a good motor in its own right, especially if you only plan on using it part time. I wouldnt be afraid of 250k but I do most of my own wrench work. The thing is, 9k for a truck that everything works as it should, isnt a bad price IMO but when you start finding problems you can pile up thousands quickly.

a rust free truck, that is a denali, w/ 6.2 motor and everything works as it should for 9K? I would jump all over that. In Oklahoma people are paying that for 2001's w/ 5.3

so you have power at the neutral safety switch?

Never seen anyone try to do this. I have read where people tried to replace a bench seat with adjusting seats. What you will need to do is take measurements, and then eventually purchase a bench seat that will fit properly for width and then you will need to fabricate a frame system that will allow you to bolt the bench. You will then need to figure out seatbelts and if you have to do anything with the plugs that allow you to know if someone isnt buckled up etc.

you could always cut and splice wires or you could just replace the door latch actuator or lube it normally works.

Have you determined if and where your back up switch is located, and tested it? If you dont have a back up switch (manual trans) then you might want to check your neutral safety switch.

if you are using your old drums, it is important to note they develop a wear lip/rim that will prevent the drum from sliding over your shoes. This isnt the end of the world and is normal, so the procedure for this is slack the shoes off, to where you can just slide the drum over, get it in place then adjust your shoes using a shoe adjustment lever/tool. Or you can purchase new drums and start new. If this doesnt solve your problem, they make cable slack devices that uses your cable and basically will take out the slack of your cable. I am 99 percent sure though your problem is just not adjusting the shoes when the drums are in place. You should adjust them after the drum is on, until you hear a slight dragging noise.

While not easy, very doable. My suggestion to you is, skip the buying from someone who is selling an engine that "It ran when I pulled it out" instead do the work, and find a truck that is still running and can be used as a donor, ie one that has been smashed up, or frame rotted. Get the whole truck, and basically transfer everything from that truck to your body. Chevy or GMC wont matter. Also just so you know, you are not limited to just 08 to 09. You can put in any GM engine for the most part with in reason. Personally if its me, im going to forgo the 07-and above motor with afm, and go with a 99 New body style, to 07 classic style. Good luck with the build, would be curious of how it goes for you.

Thats cools you figured it out. I had nothing to offer. I was going to ask why you were out reving the engine, but decided not to. In my mind I pictured someone reving the motor to 4900 for a few minutes then letting off, doing that over and over again, pissing the neighbors off. In my head it was Karma, but I am glad that isnt what happened.

If you are using a carb'd 350 why do you need any computer? Spark, fuel, air..............Timing

My opinion, none. If its not broke dont fix it. I too use Mob 1 full syn. Over 300 k no issues, no check engine lights, engine running great.

7400 to 9100 lbs, depending on your figuration.

the problem is it is stuck lol. The solution might be just a matter of lubing it up while working the catch at the same time to try and get it freed other then that no way to be sure without, looking at the truck tailgate in real time. It could be a bent rod, broken rod etc.

2 things you can do. First get the HVAC coupler removal tools, and remove the heater hoses where they plug into the HVAC. Then get a pipe that they will fit (its only to bypass the Heater core for the test. The other thing you can do, if the hoses are old, and its been a while since you have changed them, go ahead and just cut the hoses on inlet and outlet about 8 - 12 inches from where they plug into the HVAC and get a pipe to just slide them over using screw down clamps. Keep in mind that a known issue is the plastic coupler for the inlet is a common fail point, so you may just want to plan on replacing that coupler, anyway. This should allow you to bleed out the system again, and get a reading on your temp issue. Obviously if the temp is stable it would have been because of air in the system or your heater core. Flushing it out with the lines off with a garden hose on the outlet side without high pressure sometimes helps to free any clogs.

It should get hot, a clogged Heater core might be giving you issues. Get a pipe and bypass the core and see if this resolves your issue.

Always thought the GM v8 to Nissian D21 was a good swap. Ive seen it done with a 350 (5.7) dont know why it couldnt be done with a 5.3.

That is extensive rust! Could be catastrophic if the integrity is all the way through. Get your self a pressure washer, spray the area down, trying to get all the loose stuff out the way. Then move on to a wire brush, and eventually a wire grinding wheel. Try to get to bare metal in and around the area, only then can you determine what your next step is going to be. Piecing in bits of frame isnt feasible unless you are willing to remove the cab and box and possibly the engine and tranny. You really should inspect that frame very good. If this type of failure is in multiple places you might better just find another donor truck with no rust or little rust and do full swap.

If you are positive you have no air in the system and the gauge doesnt jump past 210, you are within specs. Your heater works as it should I am guessing since you didnt list that as a symptom. Since you have went through and did all this work, you may want to stick another coolant temp sensor in, for what they cost, it would eliminate at least one possible issue to whats going on with your gauge.

being that you changed the WP, Thermo, and Coolant temp sensor your problem might be air in the system. Did you change the coolant temp sensor while the truck was drained of coolant or did you do it after while it was full? Someone suggested to me that coolant might have got on the connection and that might give a false positive reading. That wasnt my issue, but you may want to look into that too. Back to air in the system. If you get pockets of air, it can cause all sorts of issues because lack of flow through the system Try getting different readings in various parts of the coolant system, or just go back through the bleeding system and see if you have some air still hanging around. Make sure you have the heater on high while doing the bleed sequence.

when you say you put in a new engine, do you mean new to you, like out of another truck, or new like out of a crate? If the former, did you use the PCM from the truck you took it out of, or yours? You may just need to get this engine program tuned.

I hate to tell you but, you are in a bind here. If the old owner did a hack job to the fuel pump, or didnt put the right one in, it creates a serious issue for you, seeing as you are on the road. If the person didnt lift the bed to give themselves plenty of room to clean and inspect and make sure they could put it back correctly, and it didnt seat properly could mess the seal up. This doesnt explain your transmission issue. I would suggest trying to keep the truck in 3rd via the shifter, and see if that helps or if it too gets stuck that way. Obviously if it does allow you to do this, you would not be advised to push over 55 but that sure beats 20.

The top suggestion as to the ticking/clicking noise from behind the dash was given to you. You didnt even acknowledge the person giving you the help. Did you look behind your dash? Did you check into the actuator problem? I dont know of any sensors that would cause a ticking/clicking with speed that you would hear inside the cab, sometimes you can hear clicking from a relay, but never heard of it speeding up or slowing down. The actuator is the best answer, and until you do something to see if that is the problem I dont think anyone is going to be able to help you narrow it down.

its possible but not likely. If I had one guess it would be you have a pocket of air that is the culprit. When you go for your bleeding round next time, with cap off overfill container, and truck at idle as the truck warms up a bit squeeze the top hose a bit, with two hands like you are trying to force coolant through the water pump. you will see the reservoir push level push up. Make sure the truck is up to temp and no bubbles before putting the cap back on, dont be afraid to cycle this process multiple times to make sure the air is completely out.