Sharpz

So at the advice of GrumpyBear I used a thicker oil. I opted to use 20w 50 mobile one full synthetic and because I didnt have the time to do a full on rebuild or swap, I figured I would drive this truck for as long as I could. The thing is the knock went away with time, I do have a tick, but nothing like I experienced before and the tick isnt all the time, the truck runs great, plenty of power and I have turned over 465k and still going. I am not saying its right or a solution by any means, just saying I think when this issue first started I was at 400k. Thank you to all who had suggestions.

Turns out that the amount of miles I have on this motor, and the low pressure was more then it could take. I do have oil pressure when driving now, around 45 psi at 3800-4000 rpm, not great by any means, but at idle it is only around 15 psi, enough to get a low oil pressure warning. The knock is still present so looks like I will be rebuilding this one. Thank you everyone who contributed to this and past threads.

Just an update. I have finally got around to swapping out my oil pump. I am waiting 24 hrs for the RTV to set up on the corners of the oil pan, before adding oil, but I am 99.9 percent sure that the o'Ring I installed the first time was not seated properly. I did use the black O'ring that the parts store gave me, but I dont think it was in right. I could see most of the ring just starting to go into the oil pump, and when I installed the new pump and ring, It took like 20 minutes to get it seated. Eventually I had to take the two nuts completely loose on the pick up tube to work the ring in where it was inside the pump dead headed. I then was able thread the bolt almost home then put the nuts on. I have to do this on my tahoe and sure now what needs to be done. Bottom line, I couldnt find anything wrong with the old pump, but since I had the high flow one, I decided to put it in anyway. Hopefully no internal damage was done and I can run here another 100 miles.

more like soft and paste like. I couldnt see slivers or anything like that. I would describe it as fine filings that were saturated. I could rub it between my fingers and couldnt feel anything like sharp splinters. Also I stuck a power ful magnet in the oil I took out and in the pan itself but nothing came out on that magnet, only on the oil plug magnet and it was only on the tip of it. update. I drained the oil and added 20w50. No change in pressure or tick. I only added 5 qts and didnt change the filter. When I get vacation I will go ahead and swap out that pump and see if anything changes. Thanks for all the advice.

yeah that does make more sense lol. Just curious as I have seen mixed things on this, but is it possible or even worth it to try and replace the rod bearings while I have the pan down? Obviously I know having this engine completely out and rebuilt would be the way to go, I just cant do it right now. If it is something that isnt a horrible project and the margin of error isnt great, the price is right for the parts.

I will definitely try that 20w 50 after I change this pump. .Thank you for the input. Its been such a reliable truck that I hate not to try everything I can to keep it going. I havent drove it since the tick happened, just meshed the gas pedal while in gear to see if it lost any power, it happily spun the tires. Thanks again.

If this has been addressed somewhere, I am sorry for reposting. I did as many searches as I could but could not find what I was looking for. I have a 2004 gmc sierra 1500 4x4 w/ 5.3 motor. The Motor has 400k on it, and up until recently has had zero internal problems. What changed was my oil pressure started dropping, and when driving would be up past 40 psi, but when I would come to a stop, it would drop to 20, and then progressively it got a bit worse until it would hardly ever get over 40, and would idle to where the low oil pressure warning would come on the display. If I didnt drive the truck for a few days, it would start up with a tick. This was my daily driver and I couldnt just not use it, but I made efforts to pinpoint thep issue/s. I first swapped out the oil pressure sensor with a new offbrand one, and the readings were not exactly the same, but did seem to be a bit higher. Thinking this might be the problem I purchased a new AC Delco OPS and it was exactly like the original. Thinking the next step was possibly the O ring on the pick up tube, I decided to drop the oil pan, since mine was leaking a bit of oil. When I dropped the pan it was clear that it had never been done. Even though I only ever used full synthetic motor oil, and ac delco filters, changing every 3k, there was some build up in the pan. I remember using marvels mystery oil a few times, but stopped using it long ago. I cleaned the pan so that it was clean, as well as the splash guard. I took the oil pressure tube down, and cleaned it up the best I could without a parts washer. I replaced the o ring with a new one and reinstalled everything. No change on the oil pressure. I did not have a tick at this time, as long as the truck didnt sit for multiple days, and even then it would go away after about 7-10 miles of driving. I purchased a new high flow oil pump, thinking this was the next step, but realized I had to drop the pan again and go back through that process and I just didnt have the proper time, and realized tools for this to happen. I did purchase a new HB removal tool and started tearing into the front side of things, before I realized my torque bar only went to 150 flbs, and needed one that went to 240. I also found out after I needed a install bolt for the HB all of which needed to be ordered. Frustrated I put everything back as I didnt have the time any longer and needed the truck. A few days had gone by, and I was driving for about 1 1/2 miles, the truck sounded good, still oil pressure issues but no tick. Then it just shut off. I never changed the fuel pump since I had the truck and assumed this is what happened. I changed out the fuel pump but the truck would not start. It would crank like it wanted to start, but just not catch all the way. I didnt have a fuel pressure tester but when I pressed the port it would spray pretty good, each time I cycled the key. I couldnt find anything else wrong. No codes for anything new, just the existing 02 sensor and the air filter sensor. Frustrated I cranked the engine and pressed down on the gas petal and it started up, and has fired every single time since without fail, runs drives has plenty of power, but now I have a tick.. This is a fresh oil change and I even added lucas to see if it might help, but still a tick and low oil pressure. So here I am, asking for where to go from here. I still plan on doing the oil pump swap out, as Now I have all the tools I need for that, but something I did notice in the last 4 oil changes I have done, all with in a month and less then 1k miles, was a little bit of fine metal on the oil plug. Nothing crazy, but its there. My questions to all of you are other then the oil pump, new Red o rings, and not black o rings. What can I do while I have this this apart, the oil pan will be down. The oil pump will be open. I have heard a new timing chain probably is a good idea, but really isnt needed. I do have a 5.3 with 200k miles on it from a new style 99 1500. It always ran good. I planned on putting this in something the same year, 99-02 but if it would work in my 04 I would be open to that.

as long as you know what you are getting. If it were me, I would have opted for them to use my tranny since they didnt have one ready to go, but to each their own.

because genius that's the only thing they do. You might gather that the 4l60E is probably the most common one they do, so much so they had 1 core, which if that's all they do, I would wonder why only 1, but whatever. If your business is transmissions, then you have some built, its the way it is, or are you the guy who goes to a tire shop and they have to order your tires, or perhaps when you get an oil change you tell them what oil you want then go back in a few days so they can get it? I am not really sure why you asked me this question, but whatever. It would seem to me that if they were going to rebuild a tranny, they would remove the one from your truck, rebuild that one and then put it back in, not use a core from someone else that is not rebuilt yet, but again whatever. I could understand them putting another core in from an already rebuilt one though.

I am glad that you are in line to get your truck up and moving again. I am just curious why this shop didnt have a rebuilt tranny already if thats all they do. The 3 year unlimited is pretty standard here for a rebuilt tranny. You can get a rebuilt w/ new torque converter w/ a 1 year unlimited and your core deposit for about 800 bucks, but the upgraded tranny w/ the 3 year is the way to go.

The thing is there is more then one year bed for your truck. That style ran for a few, so not sure why a year is going to make a difference to them. If the bed they put on was not properly done with primer, paint etc, and it is in a reasonable amount of time this occurred, I am sure they will fix it after trying to give you a run around.

it sounds like you have many issues ongoing. Making sure all of your grounds are hooked, is the first thing. I am not sure of the compatibility of your bcm and ecm with a 2000, vs 2005. It may be a matter of just taking it to your local gm dealership and getting things reprogrammed. I am not sure what frame up means, but if that means you got a frame, and a cab........... from a 2005, then what exactly did you take from the 2000?

gyour tranny probably is bad. You can get a bottle of that anti tranny slip stuff and see if it helps you a bit. If it does there is a good chance your tranny is shot. If it were a wire problem outside the tranny I doubt it would shift in any gears. Lucas transmission fix is supposed to be a good product.

Only suggestion is get the largest alternator you can get for your truck.

It could be a shift solenoid for sure. Only way to find out is to either replace it or have it replaced. There are plenty of Youtube videos for your truck that walk you through that process if you want to attempt to do it yourself.

Did the dealership remove the amp and new radio your son put in and then try to reprogram the fob? How proficient at wiring in all of those things is your son? I don't think you will get much help here with the issue you are describing sorry to say.. If a certified GM dealerships service department turned your truck away, something has to be terribly wrong or not obvious. I am surprised they didnt recommend changing the BCM. I have seen people do damage (mostly on older cars) by wrongfully hooking aftermarket radios up. Dead shorts, parasitic draws, fried wires etc. The problem with trying to trouble shoot what someone else has done is not knowing where to start.. Most people will try to throw the most obvious things at the problem, but when that doesnt work, its onto the next item. Your problem could be nothing more then a frayed wire that is losing contact, but its extremely difficult to trace down.

For the most part the simple answer is Yes. Pay attention to the year truck you have vs what you are looking at. Just because the tranny bolts up, doesnt mean its going to work without doing major mods, such as harness conversions etc.

Cheyenne was only a base model truck C and K. C being a base 2 wheel, and K being a 4x4. There is talk about bringing the name back to the states, but really its just a base silverado so really not any point to it, other then the emblem name which you can get online if you are into that sort of thing. If you want to see this bad ass new, check out this

okay, well then it could have been for a plow, winch or any number of items that would require a heavy ground, since it is cut, it serves no purpose now.

That would be the cheaper route to go for sure, as long as you get someone who knows what they are doing and can if need be reprogram your bcm you would be fine. Especially as long as you keep it away from the guy with the hammer and screw driver.

you should have made one of those old timey "Like a Rock" video, like GM used to do back in the day. Check out this one where the Chevy is pulling like 5 trailers of logs.

seems like an easy wire to track down.

I personally like the hyper flash on my actual lights outside the cab and what they do, not so much in the cab but I'll trade off for that.

I recommend you take it to a dealership or a professional and actually get the steering column replaced before your security shuts you out and leaves you stranded somewhere.

While in auto 4x4 there isnt power persay to the front axles but they are on demand or activated in case you are in a situation that say you are cruising highway speeds, come to a hill that might be a bit slippery, the auto 4x4 detects that you are losing grip, and automatically puts power to the front axle, where as if you didnt have this feature activated you would need to push the button (which you should do anyway) for 4 hi. It is sort of like a clutch. A slight moan is humming is completely normal, at least its been for all of my trucks when I have been in auto 4 or 4 hi.