Sharpz

what they look like

I have also used those exact bulbs for a year now, without issue. I also changed out my running lights with LEDs with no issues. When I did change out my parking lights, brake lights, marker lights ect, the only issue I found was that the turn signals flash faster, but they work fine. I liked the looks so much I even changed out the fog lamps to the dfrg led swap. Combined they give the truck an upgraded look, and very good brightness.

I am just curious why you cant change the oil pressure sensor and filter? I get that its cold, but this is an easy job, and the part isnt that much money. Hell even a off brand sensor is better then no sensor at all, especially if its cold. Waiting till spring seems like a long time for this part. Most cases when these sensors go bad they actually leak oil, so keep an eye on it

pf46e is the ac delco filter. I use Mobile one, full synthetic high mileage oil from walmart, and have never had a problem with it. I also get the Marvels mystery oil from there as well. I run 5 quarts of 5w30 full synthetic to 1/2 qt marvels each change. I dont have a lifter tick, although I did before I started using the marvels, but only for about 7 miles or so, then it would go away.

Questions need to be answered or more information needs to be given for anyone to give you a good assessment of what the issue causing your tick might be. , At a glance dirty lifters could be the cause, and there are plenty of youtube videos that go over how to solve that. I would like to know, how long has it been since you changed the oil, what oil are you using, and filter. If you only have say 1k on the truck since your last oil change, and you used a good quality oil and filter, it doesnt look dirty or milky, and the level is where it needs be, then doing the lifter clean up might be your best way to go. ' If i am in your shoes,I am going to remove 1 qt of oil from the pan, then I am going to add 1 qt of marvel mystery oil and run it for a few weeks. Then I am going to change the oil with a good synthetic oil, with an ac delco filter. I am going to add 1 qt of marvel mystery oil with that oil change, being sure not to exceed the total amount for your truck. You can test the Oring on the pick up tube issue, by adding oil while your truck is warm. A qt should be plenty. If the tick goes away then this might be your issue, and you can proceed accordingly. Be sure to do this for test purposes only and do not run your truck this way. Doing it just before you change your oil would make the most sense.

I have no idea how long the 4l60e will last. I have not had any problems with them and have put a lot of miles on them, where as I know lots of people who have had to get it replaced with as few as 150k on them. Currently my daily driver has over 320k on it and shifts fine. As for the oil leak, a quart in between changes isnt that big of a deal and I wouldnt suggest dropping the tranny just to change the rms. If you start having problems with the tranny slipping or going out, it will need to come out to either 1) be swapped for a new one/rebuilt one, or 2) for that one to be rebuilt itself. Once the tranny is out, it is a very easy process to change the rms in your truck. As long as you have a few basic tools and a torque wrench you could easily do the seal, and no mechanic should be charging you full price to do it either once the tranny is out. At most for an experienced mechanic once the tranny and torque converter are out, it shouldnt take any more then an hour to remove the rms and replace. It should sit for 24 hours so that the RTV silicon sets up before adding oil (jmo), but its an easy job once the tranny is out.

lol no. My truck doesnt make it when its not cold outside, like 25 or below. Once if it makes the noise it wont do it till maybe the next cold day or after sitting a while. It really makes the noise if I use the step up/rock skids to get in the truck on cold days. Mine doesnt make it enough to even worry about it, but I do remember the first few times it happened, I honestly thought something broke it was that loud.

in my case, it went from a rainy 55 degrees, to down to 14 degrees in like 8 to 9 hours. With over 320,000 on the truck, and original bushings cab mounts etc. its going to make a little noise. In my case shocks are bilstein 5100's and less then 20k on them.

as stated above try to verify your actual temp vs what the gauge is saying. MAKE SURE you have removed all air from the system by following the proper procedure.

my truck does this too and since it was down to the coldest day of the year so far it does it more pronounced. I am guessing cab mounts are the culprit. After running the truck for a bit, no such noises. If it sits for a few hours, I hear it again. I dont think its anything to worry about since it is a one off, and not a continuous noise.

if you have some tools, just disconnect the front drive shaft till you get where you are going. I am not going to insult your intelligence and ask if you are following the proper procedure for neutral.

I am not sure why the IAC valve would only act up when it was cold, but glad you're not having the issue anymore.

Those rims look good on that truck. The truck looks stock, so if I were you id just keep it as is and replace the tires per normal.

just a thought, but perhaps you dont have the right struts for your suv.

you could have a skinned wire that is grounding out somewhere. The test light from the negative battery will stay lit as long as your security works, clock memory, bcm memory etc. They rely on your battery to keep them on, but shouldnt pull much to actually drain the battery in only a few days time. Faulty cluster panels can be a cause of this. To test that remove the cluster and let your truck sit for the time it normally takes to drain, if it starts, there is a good chance your problem is here. After market radios are another big fault problem if not done properly. I see you say everything is stock except the added LED lights though, so that shouldnt be an issue.

If the damage is close to or exceeds the trucks worth they will consider it a total loss. You might opt to buy it from them and they give you the difference. If they fix it, the collision place will inspect for frame damage, or structural damage and you wont know till they do a hard inspection. From experience a lot of the time these damages dont look too bad until you start taking stuff out, clips, and housings are beyond repair, and need replaced. A lot of the times you dont even know how bad till you get new parts in and realize nothing is bolting or snapping in where it needs be. My guess since you had an airbag deployment, they will total this truck. You might get the option if you ask to buy it back from them and could get a salvage title and take your chances.

A smoke inspection of your vacuum lines will rule those out. Cleaning the Tb and Map sensor when you can can help. Also if its been a while, go ahead and change your coolant sensor, being sure not to get any antifreeze on the connections. Using tape on the new parts connection until after it is in will help.

I am not an expert, but as I have to do this myself soon and have been researching what I need to do, I have come across some symptoms of low oil pressure. 1st and most common, the oil pick up tube O'ring. Did you repace this, and if so when you put the new one on did you lube it, and make sure it was seated correctly? One of our fellow subscribers to this sight, took his truck to a dealer, who did this, and then told them he thought it was the oil pump, changed that too, put it back together, no oil pressure. It turns out they didnt get it seated correctly and had to redo the procedure. 2) gunky lifters. Some of the vids I have been watching that were causing problems with oil pressure were lifters that were pretty gunky/sludgy. The procedure for this fix was simply removing the valve covers, and you would be able to get to the lifters from here, keeping in mind they need to be kept in order and put back exactly how they came out. Carb cleaner seemed to clean the lifters, also whilst you have the cover off at this time spraying carb cleaner to remove gunk in this area was recommended, especially down the holes for the lifters. Do an oil change after you do this as it will dry out all of your working parts. lightly lubing this area with marvel mystery oil might help too before reassembly. 3) priming your mellings oil pump and O'ring application

ok sorry I didnt see this post earlier, or read it but, I see you say you changed the maf. Why didnt you change the oil pressure sensor? If it is bad, sometimes your truck will think the oil pressure is too low, and will cause damage so will shut down, in your case go to limp mode. When you change the Oil pressure sensor also test the plug, to make sure you have a good connection. for a 5.3 the socket size is a 36mm and you will need a 3/8 ratchet extension 4 to 6 inch and also remove the plastic tb cover 4 bolts I think are 8mm. This is done by feel, but there are plenty of you tube videos on this.

Ignorant I might be. I just think you are one of those people who like to see themselves talk via text. Whatever makes you happy though. All of the information you asked can be found on the internet multiple times over, you didnt need to ask it if you were just curious in the knowledge. What you wanted was debate, and as I said see yourself talk.

what I cant understand here is you have all this money to pay someone else to do the work as well as a new motor etc, but you falter at the price of labor for a head gasket install? Do what makes you happy, if I had the money you seem to want to waste I would consult a professional shop and let them sell me on an engine. I wouldnt come to a free online forum with a bunch of randoms asking their opinion on what they would do. If you put in a high output motor, NO MATTER WHO OR WHAT IT IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you will need to upgrade your tranny too! So if you are willing to do all of this........... why are you here asking? Shouldnt you be speaking to the race shop or pro shop who will be doing the work?

your fuel pump is probably shot. If you spray non chlorinated brake cleaner directly into the tb and continue doing so and it stays running then its obviously a fuel issue. Check all of your fuses then wires that you can see if all checks out, then look into replacing the fuel pump.

and dont forget, when you buy a used engine you are buying what you dont know. If you buy a new engine you will have thousands more into it and you will still have your hardware from your engine with all those miles on it, unless you replace all of that and then you are talking even more money. It takes 2 seconds to tell if the heads are warped once off, and they are not that big of a deal to get refurbished ones, and not that much money. Bottom line if you have unlimited cash and dont mind spending it, go for a new engine with all the hardware new too......... might as well throw in a new tranny and torque converter at that time as well since you have the motor pulled. If cash is an issue, then go with the head gasket replacement, and look into upgrading some of the internal components from here. With the head gasket replaced, a new oil pump, and water pump kit while you have it apart, new intake gasket, new valve cover gaskets and a new oil pressure sensor and you should easily be able to get another 175 k out of your 5.3.

If you didnt warp the heads, replacing the head gaskets is by far the cheapest and easiest way to go. It is really a straight forward process, and allows you the opportunity to do all sorts of things to give new life to your 5.3.

I am sure fixes have been achieved and if its so loud that you feel you must get it resolved I would understand that. The alternative is that you turn on the radio and keep motoring. I have the lifter tick on my 99 w/ 209 k and its been there for several years and around 75k miles with no problems. I also have an 04 with 229k that has had the tick for about 170k with no issues. No check engines, no codes, factory gas mileage and plenty of pep. I simply have just stopped flipping out every time I came to a stop sign.