Sharpz

you can try to unplug the switch, start the truck with it unplugged, then shut it off, and try plugging it in again. I am guessing you know that only the range you are in lights up, ie 2 wd will light up when in 2. Neutral will only light up when in neutral, 4 wd lights up only when its in 4 wd. I figure you know that but I had to say it. The next thing you have to determine is if you are actually switching into 4 wd. If not you may have a bad switch, which is the cheapest part associated with this problem, or maybe a bad actuator. If you dont want to throw money at the problem, be sure to check the grounds associated with the 4 wd system. I know one specifically is located under the truck just about the front fender and the drivers door, on the frame.

the problem is these are specific bolts, if you know the same hardness, exact length then yeah you could just use a fastener provider, but its one of those things, do you want to risk anything with other then OEM?

honestly bro, put them on and use your impact, after about 1.5 seconds of it wanting to struggle leave it be. they are tow hooks and impact tight is good enough.

because it is electrical, its nearly impossible to diagnose the problem. The solution might be as simple as cleaning your battery terminals or the connections to the charging system. It could be a faulty wire in a number of places as well. It could be an issue with the ECM, or BCM. Could be your ignition wires, or wires to and from any one of these places. I would start with your connections for battery and alternator and go from there. Get your alternator checked out, as well as your battery tested too.

you have a lot of information for the problem you are having, but in short absolutely. Shocks can cause premature tire wear no doubt. 160 is a lot on a 4x4. Cupping is a common problem with some tires, but at 4500 that is crazy. Because you indicated all tires having this wear chances are its your suspension.

you should be able to find a pull a part with your year no problem. I am not sure about the tahoe, but silverado underwent a few changes in 99, where as there was the 99 classic, and 99 newstyle. I think that went up to 02. The best thing you can do is search your vin number, find out what gear ratio you have, and search compatible rears.

you might want to look into your oil pressure sensor, when they are on the down side they can leak oil, its discrete at first, and will be toward the firewall side. Put your hand back behind the engine and see if you have oil slick residue back there, then change it out before changing oil types.

perhaps the battery in your fob are weak? /

what you might want to try is disconnecting the positive terminal for about 20 minutes, being sure 1) to test your battery, 2) that the terminal and all connections regarding the charging system are clean and free of corrosion before installing a good battery, that is putting out 14volts. Also you said you blew an ecm fuse........ is that because the battery was hooked backwards pos - neg etc? Or was it because the battery was being charged in the truck and the charger was hooked backwards or that wasnt the issue at all? Sometimes when the fuel pump goes out it can blow this fuse, but likely your truck wont start after, unless the fuel pump is replaced.

quite possibly a ground didnt get tightened or got damaged in the process

If you know what a tune up is, then why are you starting a thread about one? You came here not knowing if your truck had a rotor and cap, but are going to critique the response, because you left your post open to "Is there anything I am missing"? Since I don't see anywhere in your post where you say engine tune up, and that can leave tune up to many things for some, such as a brake tune up, tranny tune up etc. Tune up can just be the tweaking of something to increase its optimum performance. Good luck with your Haynes manual.

buy yourself a can of nonclorinated brake cleaner and keep in your truck, along with a screw driver to remove the cold air intake hose. The next time your truck refuses to start, spray some brake cleaner in the inlet, and if it starts you can be sure its fuel related. Get a tester to see what fuel pressure you are running. Also be sure to check your gas top and make sure your truck isnt getting vapor locked. This isnt a big problem much anymore, but if someone changed out the gas tank, or fuel pump, they may have pinched the vent line.

it should not go to the floor, you should have "Pedal" If it goes to the floor, it sounds like you have air in the system.

If it were me I would be looking mostly into the drive train and undercarriage. Check for noises, rust, etc. I see you have some body damage and rust on places on the exterior, plus the interior floor carpet looks like someone hauled a Torque converter upside down in there. As it has been said before on this site, if anything is wrong with the drive train, rears etc it is very costly to fix.

Being that you are in Cali, I dont see a way around what your issue is, considering that the 2007 new style w/ the 4l70e will flash code errors no matter what you do. You might be able to unplug the speed sensor and insert a jumper to trick the truck into thinking that its okay, long enough to get an inspection but I wouldnt recommend doing that. What is blowing my mind is that none of these people knew what transmission you had? I mean I can understand someone going to a pull a part and getting the wrong one, but a reputable tranny builder? Did you give him your old tranny as a core?

The community can read this, but as the post originally was about an upsized Alternator that would not know you are asking about how to hook your fans.

The tow haul mode switch has a common issue with one of the wires that is fed through the steering column breaking, and there are several videos on how to repair that wire. As for your 4x4 issues, there is any number of issues that could be happening. A few might be the 4x4 switch, the actuator and maybe just a bad ground. I would start with checking and resetting all of your grounds that you can locate for the 4x4.

This is a question you should ask the community as a whole, in a new post. I am all stock and havent did the fan swap.

yeah a Junkyard, or pull a part.

Try using the truck for a bit, then jack the rear up, and see if you can freely turn the tire, with the truck in neutral, also do it cold. If the tire spins freely then you might want to try bleeding the brake system.

AGAIN new out of another truck or new out of a crate? What sort of shop did you take it to? Just because they have a garage doesnt mean they are equipped to solve your issue. Lots of mechs just throw your money at the symptom by replacing parts that the books might suggest to be the culprit. You get the same treatment coming to forums like this. A bunch of people give their opinions based off what you are telling them. Without anyone testing anything, like fuel pressure. Take it to a shop that can access your PCM, if possibly a GM dealership, and see what they tell you. Explain to them all that was replaced, and tell them you are looking for an alternative solution to that which has already been done, based off what your PCM reads.

what was said above is all true. My 2004 z71 is all stock and when I am pulling a trailer get around 14 mpgs, empty and on highway keeping under 75 will get 17mpgs.

so you might want to replace your thermostat, and since you will need to drain the coolant to do so, go ahead and flush your Hvac w/ a garden hose on light water, putting the water through the return, basically reverse the way it would normally flow. Then Also flush your radiator with water. Put everything back together, and be sure to bleed the system very good. Dont lose patients on the bleeding procedure.

im curious. What happens when you put the key to the start position and move past the on position?

I think a 145 will replace the 105 amp, same bolt pattern pully etc.