Sharpz

sounds like you should just go to a pull a part and get your another harness. Save yourself grief. Whilst there pick up another BCM, and if you have the money another PCM. If this person randomly started cutting wires, it might be because they had the same issues, or the security theft system was preventing them from starting it and they thought cutting certain wires would bypass it. I will say cutting wires is different in removing something like a security alarm, brake system, or remote start. If you remove something you will only see the wires cut with no apparent place for them to go. Cutting harness wires would still leave two ends unless the person traced them down and pulled them out for whatever reason. Inspect your area real good for tucked wires, before proceeding.

ask a friend or your mech if you can swap out the pcm with another truck see if it clears. I wouldnt think that check engine light would fail you. I thought only emissions would do that.

looking good bro. That emblem doesnt look half bad.

no, not if you are getting that after it shuts off, at least not at the compressor. Might try to test the actual interior switch that engages the AC.

Make sure the connections are in good shape, and no corrosion. Clean them up real good both at the mirror, and the toggle/function switch. I had the same issue on a 99 silverado and that is all it was.

why not just overhaul your 5.3? If it is a good block it wouldnt take much. Aside from either size engine, it sounds like you are in the market for a tranny more then a motor.

Your best bet for a bumper will be from years 99 (new style) to 2002. If your truck is a 1500, stick with a 1500. I believe if you wanted to change the whole nose of your truck to the 2003 to 2007 (classic) you could use a bumper from 2003 to 2007 c as well.

I say replace the whole compressor, if in fact your issue is the compressor assembly. Make sure you inspect all of your wires very good, preferably when the truck is warm enough to kick the ac off. Sometimes these wires will heat up because they no longer have a good connection and cause issues, until they cool down enough to allow proper current.

sounds like buying a 1/2 ton short body w/ 5.3 is the cheaper way to go. Sell yours and put toward the other. If you start changing gear ratios it defeats the point of a gas saving truck and without adequate power. There will be someone very pleased with what your stock 6 offers them. Cruising at 80 mph in Oklahoma (no hills) my z71 extended cab, w/ 5.3 (265 70 r 17) will be happy about 2200-2300 rpm, w/ a 10 foot job trailer. 65-70 just about 1800-1900. I bet the single cab empty will do even better.

The truck is worth a grand if only for parts. It looks like the interior might have been swapped out. Those are odd rust spots and not sure how that happened. I just saw that you are from texas, make sure this one didnt go through the houston hurricane flood or you will have lots of problems if it wasnt done right after. Again, for parts alone I would buy this truck. The leather seats and interior only could cost you that.

Even still that is a steal. 120k on a 5.3 is nothing. The only problem might be the fuel and seals dried up, which can be time consuming especially the rear main. Again id be over that for 1k all day long.

1st you should have changed both axles at the same time. Check for play in your wheels with front of truck jacked up. It could just be a wheel bearing. If you change one you should just do both.

motor blown.

Not there sure isnt. Using the fob to unlock all other doors is the only possibility for you. or just opening the drivers door and hitting the unlock button.

your post is extremely long so forgive me if I had to start skimming through. A few things you should do. 1) if you plan on pulling a camper, do as you mentioned in the first chapter of this novel and install a tranny cooler . 2) flush your coolant system with clean water from a garden hose in reverse direction via the hvac hook ups. Be sure to do it with low pressure and gradually increase to about 1/3 strength. Also be sure to get that radiator really clean inside, and inspect for deposits, sometimes people use tap water to fill or mix their coolant and that can leave mineral deposits or build ups. Use distilled water whenever possible. Speaking of coolant....... if you mixed your coolant "rich" meaning you used more antifreeze then water, it isnt that big a deal. 3) the last thing make sure you get all the air pockets out. There are plenty of videos on you tube of how to do this, but dont assume that its good, make sure. Also make sure your hoses are not collapsing. This is a personal preference for me and not inline what GM says to do. When I replaced my water pump and was having cooling issues. I switched to regular prestone antifreeze in place of the dextron. I saw what that stuff did to the intake gaskets of my daughters malibu when I replaced the intake and head gaskets, and I wont use it ever again. Im sure others find it fine.

go to a pull a part and purchase used replacements, should be a simple find. You will need a grinder or a torch probably, some will provide the torch or they will cut it out for you for a fee. Or you can try to straighten out what you got best you can and call it a day.

140 is the recommended torque for your truck. Also important is to use the cross tighten method and to gradually tighten the lugs instead of just ripping them one at a time. Also to note I dont know anyone who actually uses a torque wrench to tighten these.

you can pull the problem cylinder plug, inspect it, if it looks normal, chances are its not a leak.

you sure that there isnt a head gasket or intake gasket breach?

if you hooked up an aftermarket radio or lights you will want to start there.

https://www.wholesalegmpartsonline.com/products/Chevrolet/Silverado/Door-Lock-Cylinder-Clip-Front/2824402/16600277.html

as far as I know, yes.

No there isnt a piece. Are you sure you got the right one? On their website for the upgraded version 917 and over they show you a view of their bumper, no gap at all. On there cheapest one, they show the angle from below the bumper looking up, which makes me believe they are trying to hide something, maybe a gap. Either way there shouldnt be this sort of gap. birds and anything else can get in that. Best guest is to contact Vijay and let them know whats going on, before trying to mod your brackets.

are you talking about the 2 rivets? If so just drill them out with any old drill, using a 1/4 drill bit until the head is gone and only the shaft is what you see. Then take a punch and hammer and tap them till they push through.