Sharpz

maybe its just the picture here, but your metal looks dirty as all get out. I dont know about you, but anytime Ive tried to weld dirty/rusty/gunky metal the welds wouldnt stick, or did a poor job. If you havent cleaned the places you are welding and where you are grounding I suggest you do so also dont be afraid to clean of a piece of frame within 12 inches of where you plan on welding that arm back, and weld a 3/4 bolt to the frame, so you can clamp to it. If you have cleaned the places already, and its just the pictures that show it gunky, then disregard.

a few suggestions. 1st check your clutch fan. 2nd make sure you get all of the air out of the system or it will continue to overheat. Sometimes when redoing the whole system it can take some time. 3rd make sure the hoses are not collapsing

I am guessing you think this forum is an official GM forum where as techs from GM are paid to be here? This is a forum for GM owners who (some) happen to work for GM. I get your rant and why you would be upset, but isnt this all on you? You bought a used truck I am guessing, and didnt do your due diligence to look over what you bought. If you didnt know that is why you bring someone who does, like a mechanic. If you want guidance on how to replace the pistons, that information can be found here. You can get other help with your truck too....... but I would suggest since you seem not to know much about your truck, that you just sell it for what you can, and try to find something else. It doesnt matter what truck you get or who makes it, if you dont check it out mechanically this can happen again.

That is good to know. What I cant figure out is when I had my 2010 2500 HD I never once saw the voltage gauge move below 14. I bought it with 320 miles on it. It had the 6.0 in it.

If you just search 2002 Silverado dual climate, blend door actuator replacement, plenty of videos come up.

2 things, one the dual climate actuator is a known issue for these trucks. You may need to replace them. Also the resistor is likely your problem, but before you change it out, try something. Remove the protective trim cover that covers the blower motor/resistor. If you can get to the resistor plug, try to unplug it and clean up the connections, you may need to remove the blower motor first. I have a 99 (new style) and a 04 and both did the resistor thing, but after just cleaning up the connection, they worked as they should.

So since you trust this mechanic, I would recommend getting your belt tensioner changed, as well as a new belt. If that doesnt fix your issue, return the tensioner and put your old belt on the shelf in case something happens to the new one. These alts have a built in regulator so the chances of two being bad are slim to none. I would normally say listen to the dealer, but I dont agree with them on the volt drops. If that were true, it would do it when the truck was new too, not after parts are changed. The only thing I can't attest to though is that you are running now 30 more amps on your new alt vs your old alt. I suppose giving that the output is more, the alt doesnt need to work as hard to keep up with the electrical items running on your truck. You could test this by turning the key on turning the headlights on high beam, fan motor on high, radio on, basically everything your can get on. Wait about 5 few minutes without starting your truck, let the battery drain a little, then start the truck. If your gauge shows charge and stays that way, it would be a good indication that the dealer is right. Eventually the battery will charge and the alt will do as the dealer says and not charge until needed. If you experience the drop immediately then I would say to go ahead and change out that belt and tensioner.

lol yeah that is someone adding that for sure. No way that is factory. And it looks like a pretty bad job at that. Do you have a remote start aftermarket in your truck?

I am curious why he put a bigger alt in? Why not the original? The belt tensioner when wore can cause this issue too. At this point it would just be throwing guesses out there. If were my truck, I would take it back to where they replaced my original and ask them to put the size alt back in that came out, unless of course you are running more then normal things such as an inverter or something like that.

clunking between reverse and drive is a good indication of u-joint wear. Idealy you would change all out at the same time, same as wheel bearings and cv joints......... but the front shaft probably in reality will go twice as long as your main shaft, and that is the one you should focus on. Obviously check all when under the truck.

I have not seen a 13 to 03 C. console swap done before. I have seen the rear seat swap, that involves making brackets. I am not sure why the 13 center console is the direction you are going, instead of say an 06 center console, but I would recommend you clear your center console, then go to a pull a part and ask them if you could check for fit one from a 13. I am guessing it would not fit, or look like it belonged. Here is one from your generation truck. https://www.ebay.com/itm/164809727997?hash=item265f6cdffd%3Ag%3A8RkAAOSwt5Rgdc3O&fits=Year%3A2006|Model%3ASilverado+1500+HD|Make%3AChevrolet vs one from next gen https://www.ebay.com/itm/224443699575?hash=item3441e31177%3Ag%3AUuwAAOSwajhgivcu&fits=Year%3A2013|Model%3ASilverado+1500|Make%3AChevrolet one thing I do see is that the next gen console has lots of plastic, which looks like it could easily be cut with out any big deal. The problem would be would it make it to short to look like it belongs between your front seats.

sounds like a bad connection issue, possibly a ground issue. Only way to be sure is to remove the panels and clean up the connections, check for corrosion, and possibly low volts. Start with the drivers door, and with the panel off and having cleaned the connections see if it helps your issue, if not move to the passenger door, and clean that one, then once again check to see if the issue has been resolved.

99 percent chance its your U-Joints for your main drive shaft, probably at the tranny side. W/ the truck in neutral, and wheels blocked get under the truck and check for play.

the best advice I can give you is leave your stock wiring alone. Purchase an adapter that plugs directly into that harness and then you only need to only to wire your adapter for your radio, which they will give you (usually) Here is something you will need most likely if you want everything to work as it should. The first is the interface adapter https://www.amazon.com/PAC-RP5-GM11-Replacement-Interface-Navigation/dp/B07W8X76FL/ref=asc_df_B00DHUA9VA/?tag=&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312050280935&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10908300850449398951&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9026745&hvtargid=pla-435213456377&ref=&adgrpid=61716360643&th=1 It is pretty pricey but this retains all of your options that come factory with your truck, such as radio staying on for a time even after you turn your truck off, onstar, etc. You can go with just a adapter and do a few wiring tricks, that I can help you with, if you want, but you will lose those functions that came with your truck. From here you will need only visit your aftermarket stereos website for its wiring diagram which usually is on the radio. If yours did not come with an adapter for that you will need to purchase one.

A 5.3 is an awesome, long lasting motor, if taken care of. If you plan on doing a 6.0 swap, you might as well just have the tranny rebuilt and be done with it. It sounds like you bought someone else's headaches in this truck, but at least you will know now what you are putting in.

So I did look to see if I could locate that harness connection and just cant seem to find it on my 04 gmc sierra. I do know, that black w/ white tracer can be linked to the multifunction switch, brakes, Hvac, and RAF. I am assuming you removed the old harness because the truck caught fire, or had serious damage. How sure are you that you got the exact same harness from a sierra 04? I can give you a link to every wiring diagram for your truck, but there is a lot of information, and it will take time to work through. There is a limited amount of spots this connection can go, have you put juice to the truck yet to see if it would crank/code?

checking

If it was giving you problems before and you have the means, just take it to a transmission shop and let them have the headache. Getting your trans rebuilt is always the best option, its just not always practical for everyone because of cost. In your case obviously there is some unexplained issues going on, and as you say now you are having other issues, so its probably time. When I first read your post I was thinking that when you pried out your old filter that you scored around where the filter went in, but wasnt sure it would be enough to cause your issues.

Thats something you should make an appointment to get checked out. Before you do make sure you check the trans fluid, after you get the truck up to temperature. If the fluid level is good then it is likely it is an internal problem. It might be a shift solenoid but you would need to drop the pan to inspect them. If you are savy enough to do that, then change the filter, and gasket while there. If that is more then you are willing to do, just take it to a dealer and get their opinion.

sounds like you have a leaf spring center bolt out. You should inspect those immediately. Jacking the truck up with the camper would not do any damage. I am not sure why they would want to do that, but either way it should not mess with anything.

I wouldnt get the trans rebuilt. If it were the trans you wouldnt be able to drive in 4 wheel either. Did you try putting it back in 2 wheel after you got home? How did it shift in 4 wheel? You have reverse? How is the tranny fluid? Do you have push button 4 wheel drive or floor manual shift? I would expect your problems to be an electrical issue or failed actuator based off what you described. Dumb question but is your drive shaft hooked up in the rear?

There is a few things you can check. 1) the rear axle fluid. 2) rear drive shaft U- joints 3) brackets that hold the exhaust. 4) Wheel play in front and back tires.

ac delco is the way to go when replacing these types of parts, both for filter and for pressure sensor.

Awesome truck, good luck with the build. Ive got an a 99 waiting for some work as well. I have to do a cab swap unfortunately due to being 2 boned where the box and cab meet. Going to use a 00 body style to get that 4th door option. It was the only complaint of the 99 new body style.

I think it will bolt up yes. I think the only major difference is the output shaft, one using a 4bolt pattern and one using a 6 bolt pattern. Since you have already checked the pan, did you check the shift solenoids and that they were good and getting the proper power? Its odd that every gear would go out at the same time, without any warning.