rugz31

Just get out of it while you can. If you're in a market with carvana, do it. These trucks suck.

Hopefully you guys have better luck than I did. What an absolute nightmare. Luckily I was able to get it running properly, and Carvana offered me $9k more than I paid for the truck ($24k, I paid $15k) and I was able to get out of it. I never saw it listed on their website, so I have no idea what ever happened to it. Replaced it with an 83 Chevy K20. I'm not dealing with the whole batteries, electronics, etc nonsense again. From now on, no frills, no POS battery/charging system, carbureted, and guzzles gas.

I was wondering about that code as well, a lot of the symptoms line up with what I'm experiencing, but the tech I've been trying to work with from VIA Motors is saying none of the codes are relevant. His thinking is something is causing the shift box to lose signal and causing the shutdown when it doesn't get a response. I've got no idea if he's onto something or if he's completely off, he's been kind of all over the place since I started working with him. I was able to pull freeze frame data and it shows a new code listed as Failure 1, P2160 Vehicle Speed Sensor 2 Circuit Low Voltage. I have no idea if this is relevant or if this is another symptom I'm wasting time chasing rather than the root cause. Data Display_NOVIN210309120018_03 09 2021 12 08 49.html

I've tried, but I'm honestly not exactly sure what I'm looking at. My cheap scanner shows the DTC associated with stall is U0101 Lost Communication with TCM. Haven't been able to access it on GDS2 but I'll keep trying. One of the first times the truck stalled, I ripped the dash out on the side of the road to deal with the 218 ground, but it's possible I didn't get enough insulation out. I'll give that another look tomorrow because my original thought was BCM failure. Since I'm having the shift issue, I think that rules out BCM but it's possible the two issues are unrelated.

I don't know if this helps at all, but I spent a little more time messing with things on the truck tonight. I let the truck idle in my driveway until it stalled out, approximately 30-45 minutes. When it stalled, I turned the key off for a few seconds and then tried to start it back up. I tried several times, no luck. My next step was I disconnected the battery and touched both cables together for about 30 seconds. I reconnected the battery, and attempted to start the truck. It started immediately. I played with this for a few more tries. Let the truck idle, when it stalled I disconnected battery cables and touched them together for 30 seconds. The truck started up immediately every time. While the truck was idling, I tried to keep an eye on the modules through my VCX Nano and GDS2 software. Every time I tried to get into the ECM, the truck stalled. After it stalled, I'd get error messages saying "lost communication with module" or "no communication with module." I'm really thinking my ECM is shot. EDIT: Forgot to mention i had an issue with shifting into park tonight. I moved the truck to a different spot in driveway, tried to put it in park, and the dash indicator started flashing "N" and truck rolled back. For some reason even though I had moved the shift selector up to park, the truck still thought it was in neutral. I had to re-engage the shifter and put it back into park.

That's good to know, thanks for your input! Maybe I'll give that a shot tomorrow. I have a circuit test tool supposed to be delivered tonight so I can check relays and wires and stuff to see if there's a short somewhere. It's supposed to tell me if I have a bad ground as well. Really have my fingers crossed for a simple fix like negative battery cable. I've been planning on selling the stupid truck after I get it fixed as it's been a huge pain trying to get VIA to help diagnose the problem. Carvana gave me an offer $6.5k higher than I paid for the truck 8 months ago. I got a helluva deal on it at the time, $15k with only 17k miles. I guess people got scared by the hybrid system, and now I completely understand why. I just would hate to sell it when it only has 17k miles on it. If it's such a simple fix, I might reconsider my plan to sell.

I have checked for voltage drop from battery post to the negative cable clamp and there's no drop. Maybe it drops in a different part of the cable? I checked the ground to the block and it seemed good, but I'll give this another look. I forgot to mention a few other specifics about the stalling. I don't lose power to radio, dash lights, interior lights, etc. The engine just stops running, everything else works fine except heater/AC blow room temperature air (air temp can't be controlled through dash thermostat). One time when this happened, I did have lights on the dash saying "battery saver active" and "battery low- start vehicle." Only one out of probably 20 times it's stalled that I've gotten these messages. The rest of the time, it might give stabilitrak or security messages. When it stalls, it won't start right back up, it has to sit for several minutes or sometimes hours before it will start back up and give me the "ready" signal to drive. I had thought it was the ignition switch originally because the truck acted like somebody just turned the key off. Changed that but it didn't help.

Sure. So it's essentially been turned into an electric vehicle, it uses electric motors to drive the wheels. The ICE is used as a generator to recharge the HV system. The HV system runs for between 30-50 miles on battery power alone, when the battery drains to about 20% it kicks the ICE generator on to drive the system. It's weird to drive because the engine revs don't match when you put your foot on the gas, it revs when the HV system determines it needs more power. It's pretty strange to drive until you get used to it. I can't give a whole lot of specifics because I'll be honest I don't really understand much of it that well either. I just know the bellhousing, TCM, starter, alternator, and several other parts were removed to add the hybrid drive system. The chairman of the company who did the conversion, VIA Motors, is Bob Lutz who I'm sure a lot of you are aware of. He did an episode of Jay Leno's garage a couple years ago to showcase the truck. Here's the clip from the show if anyone is interested. Jay Leno's Garage- VIA VTrux

Hello all, I've been having some issues with my 2014 Silverado randomly stalling on me for the last couple months. Seems to happen more frequently after heating up. At first, it would usually run for 2-3 hours before stalling, but now it seems to be getting more frequent, maybe every 30 minutes to an hour. It will stall while idling or while under load. I've checked 12v battery several times at different places, everyone tells me the battery is good. I've checked cable connections, battery ground, etc and found no issues. I've gone over the fuses and didn't find any that were broken. I hooked a VCX Nano up to the truck and these were the codes it pulled: U0101 Lost Communication with TCM, U0121 Lost Communication with Electronic Brake Control Module, P0621 Generator L-Terminal Circuit. I attached the DTC log from the VCX Nano if that's any help. Here's the catch: the truck was converted to an aftermarket Plug-in Hybrid by VIA Motors making diagnosis even trickier for me. The truck stalls while running on battery power and on ICE generator. I'm not sure how relevant these codes are to what I'm dealing with. For instance, the U0101 code seems to be irrelevant because the truck doesn't have a TCM or a transmission. I'm leaning toward an electrical short or bad ground somewhere or possibly ECM failure? Does anyone else have any ideas what could be causing my issues? DTC Display_3GCUKPEH6EG534156_03 05 2021 14 40 14.html

All they really had me check were fluid levels, ATF and coolant. They said 90% of the problems that happen with these trucks are from low fluid levels. I was just a bit low on both, so I added fluid but the problems persist. I hooked up my scanner and the only code it's throwing is U0101 Lost Communication with TCM. My Via tech said these trucks don't have a TCM though, so that code pops up randomly because there's no TCM to communicate with. So I'm back to thinking it's an ignition problem. That's the only thing that really makes sense to me, that the ignition is losing contact while driving and shuts everything down and cycling the key helps start it back up again. As for mileage, I didn't pay too close of attention to it so my numbers might be off. I was thinking it was somewhere between 22-23 mpg. I had to stop 4 times for gas both ways because the tank is so small. I did baby the truck on the highway the whole way, seemed like 70-72 mph was the sweet spot and anything over that went through gas much more noticeably. I was also driving from Texas to Iowa, so weather and temps were pretty nice the whole way and lots of flat road without hills.

It's really frustrating because I was in contact with them late last week, they gave me a few things to check, and the tech assigned to my truck emailed me yesterday morning but I haven't heard from them since. I signed up for the "Via service portal" login back when I bought the truck in late June so I could access the service manuals, but they still haven't approved my sign-up. I ran the first 40 miles on electric motor then the generator kicked in and I drove the rest of the way on generator. I actually wasn't even aware I could manually switch to the generator until I found this post. That's really good to know. I saw you mentioned your coupler is loud at low speeds, mine is too. Generally between 5-20 mph when I'm running on generator. Were you ever able to get that fixed? The dealership I bought the truck from said they contacted Via about it and were quoted like $250 for the part, but I don't know how involved it would be to swap it out or if a new coupler would even solve the problem. It seems to work fine, but it is loud.

Sorry for bringing up an old post, but I was doing some googling and this popped up. I also bought a 2014 Via VTRUX this year and it's nice to see some other people that bought them as well. I picked mine up for $15k with 17k miles. Mine looks like a typical work truck compared to some of yours, but I really like it. I just took it on a 2000 mile road trip. The first 1000 miles, to the destination, went amazingly well . I believe I got about 23 mpg. The trip back, not so much. The truck stalled on the highway several times, and I'd have to pull off to the side, cycle the key several times, and eventually it would start back up. I believe I have a failing ignition switch that I need to replace, but I'm having trouble getting anyone from VIA to respond whether it's a standard Silverado ignition switch and if it needs any additional programming to swap. Do any of you know anything about the ignition system?