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  • Location
    Houston, TX
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  • Drives
    2010 Sierra CCSB "Texas Edition"

jtupper's Achievements


Enthusiast (4/11)



  1. I ended up picking one up from a salvage yard for $250.
  2. What are the reputable replicas? I have zero experience with replica wheels. I was looking at OE Wheels. So far I have one person who has had replicas without issue. Anyone with bad experience (personally)? I've searched Craigdlist and all I can find are complete sets with tires. Salvage yards around here typically want about 75 cents on the dollar these types of things.
  3. Anyone have any feedback, good or bad, regarding the replica wheels? I hit a curb and bent one of my wheels badly. I actually cracked it. The replicas are considerably cheaper than OEM.
  4. Appreciate the responses so far. I dropped the tank today and learned a couple of things about this vehicle. I will explain these so anyone else searching for this might save themselves some time. First of all, even though there is a relay clearly marked fuel pump in the distribution panel, it is not used on this vehicle. It has a fuel system control module mounted on a crossbar at the front of the tank. I spent an entire day chasing a problem that didn't exist. The other thing...since the fuel system is controlled by the FSCM, the fuel pump does not fire up for 2 seconds at key on to pressurize the fuel rail. After dropping the tank I spent a couple of hours trying to figure out why I was not getting power to the fuel pump at key on. Finally, on a whim, I had my son try to crank it and the test light lit up. The real bitch of it all was the damn thing started. My assumption is that jostling the fuel tank around made the pump start working again. Either way, I'm putting a new pump in it tomorrow. I'll be damned if I'm going to put it all back together just to lay down on me again in a day or a week. So there you have it. My gut initially said fuel pump. The DTC codes said fuel pump. My wanting to test some things first ended up costing me two days of frustration and wasted time. I should have her back on the road tomorrow. Could be worse I guess.
  5. Well, I jumped the two pins and it still wouldn't start. I'm confused now. As I understand it, when the key is set to on, the computer senses this and sends a signal to the fuel pump to run for 2 seconds to pressurize the fuel rail for starting. Once the key is set to crank/run, the fuel pump stays on. So, when I turn the key to on, I should get power to pin 86 which will close the contact and get power to pin 87.
  6. Yes, it turns over. I would assume it gets spark. pressure reads zero at the fuel rail. I thought about jumping the relay but not sure which socket to jump to. I would assume pin 87 but afraid that I might fry something if wrong.
  7. Wife was shopping yesterday and her car wouldn't start. We had it towed home and checked codes. It's throwing P023F and P069E. Both are fuel pump related. before throwing parts at it I decided to test some things and I found that the fuel pump relay is not getting power from the computer. I'm getting constant power to pin 30 and constant ground to pin 85, but at key on or crank there is no power to the other side of the relay. Now I'm thinking ECM but I'm not sure how to test for it..
  8. Thanks for the reply. I ended up poking around and found a youtube visdeo that explained it pretty well.
  9. Okay guys, I installed my lift yesterday which required me to cut my tie rods. After I got everything put back together, I realized that my alignment is WAAAY off. Obviously, I need an alignment, but I wouldn't even drive it the the shop like this. My tires are toed out badly. My question is can the tie rods be adjusted without removing the toe rod ends from the knuckle? I assume I can just break the bugger nut loose (the nut that tightens up to the tie rod end) and turn the tie rod to gt my adjustment, but I want to be sure before I start just turning it. The inner tie rod is in a boot so I can't see what is going on in that end. Appreciate any input.
  10. The new cable arrived yesterday. I still don't know where the end of the small wire coming from the negative cable goes. I assume I have to remove the front bumper. Does anyone have access to a write-up on how to replace it from a repair manual? I'd hate to pull the bumper if I don't have to.
  11. The latest in the saga continues... The truck has been dead 3 times this week. Usually, I can leave it for a few minutes and it will start. This last time (last night) I left it for about an hour an came back and it was still dead as a doornail. I put the key in and left the door open so I could hear the door chime. As I began looking at the battery cables as soon as I barely touched the negative cable, the truck came back tio life and I could hear the door chime going off. I came home and started looking around the interwebz and stumbled upon an Edmunds page with quite a few people with similar issues, although I can't find any talking about alternator whine. There are a lot of them talking about a dead vehicle and jiggling the negative battery cable and it suddenly works. Apparently, it is not uncommon to have a defective negative battery cable, The bad part is most of them haven't found a solution yet. The fixes the dealers have tried range from replacing the negative battery cable, replacing the 175 amp mega fuse on the firewall, replacing the alternator, replacing the BCM and so on. I think I am going to start with replacing the negative battery cable. Does anyone know where the small wire coming of the battery runs to? It runs down the frame rail toward the front bumper, but I can't trace it past that point. It looks like I might have to remove the front bumper.
  12. I forgot to mention that I did a voltage drop test across the battery, battery to chassis and battery to engine and there was no discernable drop in voltage. Admittedly, I have a little POS voltage meter though. How do you test the BCM? I'm assuming I need to take it to the dealer for that or will most shops be able to do that?
  13. I'm having some weird issues with the wife's Yukon. I will start at the beginning and try to be as detailed as possible. I need to get something done, but I don't want to take it to the dealer or some other shop only to throw parts at it without knowing what the issue is. The first problem started a long time ago. I noticed aleternator whine through the speakers. Sometimes it was very loud, sometimes faint and sometimes not at all. Later, the a/c would just kind of shut off for a split second. It wouldn't completely turn off, but it would just blip, kindal ike losing power for about 1 second and then keep going. Shortly after this, the radio would just turn off for no reason. It would stay off for a few seconds, then turn back on. I started looking at the battery and noticed one of the terminals was a little loose. I pulled them both off and tightened bach up real well. The problems went away for a while after this, except for the alternator whine. Coincidence or r elated to the problem? ANyway, before long the problems came back. On top of this, sometimes when we would start the truck, the a/c setting would all be reset to 74° like the battery was disconnected for a while. It would take a very long time for the blend doors to get to the correct setting and it would blow hot for a long time. A few times I even had to pull over and turn the truck off and back on the get the temp to start blowing cold again. Next, the battery died. It was less than two years old. I had it replaced under warranty. This had no effect on the issues described. I noticed a short while later that wehen sitting at a light, I tried to wash my windshield and the wipers were moving really slowly. I noticed the battery gauge would drop to about 10v, the surge up to about 14v. I finally decided to go have the alternator teasted. Everything checked out fine on the alternator, but the guy said the battery could use a charge. Keep in mind, this battery was less than three months old at the time (this was about two months ago). The latest in this saga has all happened within the last two weeks. My wife was standing at the back of the truck and opened the back cargo door and the radio turned on for a minute, then turned back off. She was holding the keys in her hand at the time. Finally, she went to start it the other day and it was dead as a doornail. No click, no drag, nothing. She called me and I told her to go try again. I wanted to hear what it was doing. It started right up. No battery low indicator or anything. Now I'm at the point that I'm worried my wife is going to end up stranded somewhere and I don't know where to start. Most of this screams ground issue to me. But, the battery needing a charge and the voltage going up and down makes me think something is up with the charging system. Any advice? I was thinking of replacing the alternator anyway, but I don't want to throw parts at it either.
  14. I did a little troubleshooting today and checked the voltage across the battery with the engine running. It was 14.5 - 14.6. I then checked across the battery to engine block and battery to chassis and got the same voltage. To be fair the problem wasn't happening at the time. The problem is intermittent. Any ideas?
  15. Okay, Iv'e read up on the big 3 upgrade and, while I'm sure it's a good mod to do anyway, I want a way to test and find the source of what's causing my problems. I don't beleive the battery is the issue as I've had the alternator whine with multiple batteries. Keep in mind I have a bone stock nav system...no upgrades whatsoever. The engine noise in the speakers is a classic sign of ground issues. Again, I'm wondering if running a sperate ground from the battery to the chasis (or frame) could be a way to troubleshoot the issue or do I need to run a new ground from the motor to the frame...or both?
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