95_togo

Well… I’m an idiot. Apparently that 20Ai replaced a few days ago was the problem, didn’t realize that the DRL wouldn’t come on until it was in D! The headlights work with the switch so I’m all fixed up. Thanks for the input all, it’i appreciate you taking the time to reply!

You’re right it’s not the switch, when I change switch positions, an indicator warning on the DIC says auto lights on or off. I read in another post that it could be trailer wiring, since it seems to coincide with a trailer hookup a few nights ago, I’m leaning towards this now, but have checked all the trailer fuses under the hood, there was a 20A burnt out so I replaced it but the problem persists. Any ideas where i I should look next

Here’s a weird one for you…. I have a think diagnostic tool for my phone and can activate each headlight individually through the app by connecting to the BCM…. But there doesn’t seem to be a diagnostic for taillights. High beams work, turn signals in both front and back work, everything else in the truck works….. except DRL, headlights and taillights…. My research points me in the direction of the switch…. Is this a correct assessment? Or am I jumping the gun on this one? Any and all advice appreciated!

Looking for a good multi make/model handheld OBD2 scanner that we can use for all the Chevy’s in the family, plus the ford’s, dodges, Nissan’s Toyotas and Mercedes! i have a unique opportunity until the end of the month to make purchases at AliExpress and eBay that will allow me to get a “full rebate” (in crypto) so I decided it’s time to get a GOOD OBD2 scanner that will work on everyone’s cars in the family! looking for something that will read and reset all the basics plus the advanced stuff like wheel speed sensors and everything in between, perhaps program keys and TPMS if necessary! I’m led to believe that the cheap scanners won’t read a lot of this stuff, and I assume a Tech 2 scanner would be GM only and way over the amount I want to spend, even though I’m basically getting it for free. Ideally I’d like to keep it under $500 but still get a feature rich scanner (and hopefully without subscriptions for additional features!). So let’s see your recommendations for things I can get at eBay or AliExpress TIA

I may have to check for a broken wire, my wife’s truck does the same thing and as far as I know she’s never replaced anything on the truck, but I also can’t recall if it ever worked since I’ve known her

Searched a few months back for some tips or advice and found literally nothing on this board that would answer my questions. So here I am today to report my findings. 2011 Silverado 1500 with stock GMC 17x7.5 wheels worked quite well with my new 35x12.50/17 tires with very minimal rubbing. Albeit I got lucky with my struts and spacer I ordered (somehow got 4” of lift in the front when I ordered “non lifted” struts https://www.ebay.com/itm/391292157619?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=M9gllHuoScS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY and this 1.5” spacer https://www.ebay.com/itm/301857637099?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=KBewltw-T9u&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY first pic below is before strut swap, second pic was after, but before tire swaps…I’ve gone through several tire iterations that included 295/70-17 and then finally the last pic with the 35’s she’s a little squirrelly from 50-75 in the front so I have to figure out why, but these thunderer trac grip MT tires seem quieter than their 295/75-17 little brother. And I love the look of those bigger tires. Just wanted to share in case anyone was looking in to doing something similar!

thanks that's what i was after - i don't want to eliminate the "round plug" as that's what it has, i just want to be able to add in some type of splitter that will branch off with the 4pin flat connector to plug in my LED brake light strip - i layed under that truck for like 15 minutes feeling like i was just staring into space - and man it's different than my OBS - i could find THAT one with my eyes closed on that truck, but with this one, i don't see anything that looks like it will let me unplug it to add in such a splitter - any chance you have pics (since i assume you also have the round connector) back behind the bumper so i know what i should be looking for?

thanks for the links - is there anything that can tuck in behind the bumper? i know when i put my trailer wiring on my OBS i unplugged the 4 pin brake light connectors and added in a "splitter" to allow for trailer wiring (4pin) is there a way to do this similarly? as i don't want to see the wiring for my brake light - it's more about the brake light and less about using a trailer - but i want the option to use a trailer if the need arises.

i'm used to the 4 pin "long style" trailer wiring - and this truck has some round looking connectors - so i'm trying to find out what kind of adapter to use to convert to the 4 pin (or are there ones that will plug into my truck and have both a 4 pin AND the round so that maybe i could pull a trailer AND use that brake light strip? never had a trailer or a need to rent one so this is new territory for me (meaning i've never had to look under the rear of the truck to figure out how to wire in a trailer - so the connections are all foreign to me)

weird. i have a similar issue - not temp related - but when i take off quickly from a stop and crank the wheels to the left (i.e. left turn arrow, or at a stop sign getting into traffic on a main road - it's been like this for years and the shop i took it to to check codes said the sensor needed to be replaced - i couldn't find anything that didn't require me disassembling the entire front end, so i leave it - (that and because it's so random, i highly doubt it's a bad sensor) I THINK my problem is related to stress on the wire from the sensor going up into the engine bay - it happened after i put new struts on (which unbeknownst to me gave me 3" of lift in the front (but they aren't "lifted struts") that, and i have a spacer on top - which added another 1.5" i just baby it when i take off to solve my problem - but it still baffles me why this happens

before i even saw this, i wondered if that were the case - i know in my corvette if you press and hold the traction control button it puts it in what i think they call "competition mode" where the wheels will spin, but it won't slide back and forth - this was a fun lesson in the rain to see what it actually did.

I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure that as the ratio number (ie. 70R or 65R) gets smaller, so does the overall height of the tire. they make widths in several aspect ratios - a 245/45-17 will be tiny compared to a 245/70-17 (i used that size because i have the 245/45's on my OBS since it's dropped to the pavement) can't really tell if it has a leveling kit (it looks like it might though) - but it certainly doesn't have a lift - easiest way to test for level kit is to measure ground height just behind the front wheel well, and also just in front of the rear wheel well (providing all 4 tires are the same size and have similar wear) - if the numbers are the same it's leveled - if the front is lower by an inch or 3, it's stock height.

I have a '95 that's a bit weathered and it's got oil in the water and water in the oil - so i have been exploring rebuilds for the past year since this hasn't been my daily driver since i bought my 2011 Silverado - but i recently saw that FORD has a "drop in" electric motor from the mach-e and that got me thinking - someone is probably working on motor mounts to drop this into just about anything that currently has a small block chevy in it - since it's cheaper than ANY alternative out there right now (the only alternative I've seen is about $25K) so this is a WAY MORE budget friendly option. Or does anyone have any inside info about CHEVY maybe making a drop in replacement? FYI the ford motor i'm referencing is https://www.thedrive.com/news/42974/fords-281-hp-electric-crate-motor-costs-3900-and-you-can-buy-one-now