Mayhem100

Just wanted to follow up and say that the plastic line set I bought from Amazon did the trick for me. It was cheap, easy to route the lines and everything fit together perfectly and without any leakage. I only used the fuel line and opted to use a bit of rubber fuel line to seal up the evap line. So far so good, waiting for the computer to go through its drive cycle before I call it a complete success and don't need to swap out the evap line as well. Not my neatest work ever, but its in, it got my truck back on the road and its all tucked away under the truck. Good solution for an old rusty, crusty truck where you don't want to spend $800 for the OEM lines...but if anyone needs the info, I got the part numbers for my VIN from a GM dealer. 2004 extended cab, 6.5' bed, 5.3 non flex. fuel 15946219 $441.62 evap 15946251 $345.14

This looks like it might be what I need, assuming I can get the ends out of the plastic fittings at the tank end. https://www.amazon.com/partszen-FLFG0340-Chevrolet-Silverado-2004-2010/dp/B0CKVG27MP Yes? No?

2004 Sierra 1500 5.3 4x4. SLT, ecsb, about 232000 miles on it. Good and crusty all over, but she's got life left in her and I use it as a backup vehicle, hauler, plow my driveway when we ever actually get any snow. Hoping to get another couple years out of it before it dissolves into the earth. Went through the rotted brake line fiasco as any owner eventually does, now the fuel lines are kaput. The rear tank strap gave out on me right after I filled it up and yanked the lines enough to break through a thin spot and the top line started squirting gas out the side. Got it home, fixed the rear strap and now I've got to either replace the lines or splice in some rubber fuel lines. I got the top line cut with a pipe cutter and I have some fuel line around that fits the OD of the existing line snugly...but then as I was putting it on today I saw that the lower line had a nice hole in it on the corner right near the end fitting by the tank (see photo 1) So I'm wondering if this is a viable rubber fuel line repair still or if I need to stop and just bite the bullet and get a couple new metal lines (or if they're even still made out of metal?)? I've attached a couple photos...most of the length of these lines are pretty solid, but the back by the tank plastic fittings are pretty crusty looking. Does anyone have an opinion on a reliable cheap repair here or is this a $300+ kit away from being done? I think the rest of the lines are ok, or maybe thats just wishful thinking. Not convinced there's enough metal left in that lower line to get a rubber line over it, but if it doesn't really carry much pressure maybe its not a big deal, so long as I can get it on there and clamp it. Looking at the connectors at the front of the steel lines where they go to what I think is flex line, I'm not sure how those connectors even come apart, or if they will really. Also, which line is which? I'm assuming top is fuel feed and lower is either return or evap? Tank end connectors are compress, squeeze and separate, right? Assuming the rust isn't going to mess it up? Tank end with upper line cut Lines running along the frame rail, you can see the cut in the top one. Front connectors. Thoughts and recommendations are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

2004 SLT, came loaded but its old and the factory leather seats are in very bad shape, but all power functions still work great. I replaced one of the seat bottoms and tried to repair the worn bolster in the foam myself, with moderate success...they're pretty uncomfortable really and it'll cost a pretty penny to buy all the replacement foams and leather covers. So I recently found a set of front cloth buckets out of an 04 Silverado. Manual passenger seat, 6 way power driver's seat. They fit, they're VERY comfortable so I'm pretty happy, especially for only $100. Now I've got an airbag warning light and one of the power seat motors seems to be bad. The frames and all electronics on my old seats are still in excellent condition so I'm wondering if I'm careful about it, can I just take the seat base and back off the nice full power heated seats and just do a seat component swap? So take the unheated cloth base and back foams and covers and move them over to my heated full power frames? I know I'll have to peel the fabric back to get the heaters under the covers and all that, but it seems like this would be a best of both worlds compromise. Question is, whats is going to screw me up here? Is there anything that I need to know before I try this thats going to make we wish I had just kept the basic cloth seats in there and not opened a can of worms? The ones I got are darn near perfect, I don't even think the armrests have ever been folded down on them, so while I don't want to wreck them, it'd be nice to have the full power and heat back in the winter. Thoughts? Thanks in advance.

Have an 04 Sierra 1500 SLT with the infamous ac condensate leak on the passenger side floorboards. Unfortunately the underhood drain doesn't seem to be the problem as I'm unable to find a clog in the tube, blowing it out and pipe cleaner therapy didn't seem to help much, if at all. Anyone have any other solutions for this issue I can check into? Its definitely not rain or other water, is only happens when the AC is run, significantly worse when its more humid outside. I do see dripping under the truck when parked after I run it, so I think I've just got two paths for water to get out...is there another common issue besides the drain that causes this? Truck has the dual zone fully digital CC controls if thats relevant. Thanks!