cheapie408

I went from a 19 LT 5.3 to a 25 RST 3.0 Duramax. This is my first brand new truck and first diesel vehicle so I hope to have it for some time. One thing I hate about these truck is 95% of them have black interior along with no interior mood lights which make it extremely dark inside. For the past 10+ years, all of my vehicles have some kind of interior ambient lights and I've gotten used to it. When I bought my X7 in 2019, what really got me was the interior ambient lighting. Traded it in recently and got the new X7 and I'm still enjoying the interior. So onto the truck, I've only owned for a week, started to transfer the audio equipment from the old truck over and decided while I have the panel off, I decided to sound deaden the doors and add some lights. I spent a good 3 hours on the driver side doors and figuring out the routes to which it would give me the most factory look. I don't want what to do with the dash yet but I have a path forwards for all four doors. I got an a symphony LED kit with 18 lights that would allow for lights in the door handle, door cup holder and a strip for each door plus footwell lightings. The kit comes with 1 master controller and 4 wireless slave so you don't need to route wires from the cabin to each door. I tapped into the constant 12V to the door switch. I figure when it's off, the draw would be so little that it's not going to drain. I can't find a switched 12v circuit in the door but if someone can point out which wire is a switched 12v I would much rather do that. I searched everywhere and found nothing on these lights install for our truck so I figure I'd document it here, maybe it can help someone. Under the door handle, there's already an existing hole, the led just slide in there and I hot glue it to it. I had to drill a hole in the cup holder slide in the cap then also hot glue. The LD strip slide between the cracks of the door handle and carefully pushed into the crevices. If you guys are interested, I can take detail photos of allt he penatration points as this was the longest to get figured out. For the remaining 3 doors, it should probably only take 30 minutes per panel at the most. For the sound deadening, I added the buytle material plus a layer of the foam material on both the outer and inner shell where I could.

I just remove this same setup from my 19 planning to install it in my 25 non bose. I don't recall having to do anything with the resistor on my 19, do you have any photos of where you shaved off and which, where the resistor goes? I'm also contemplating on if I should replace the kicker amp with a JBL dsp 8 channel amp.

Instead of Android Auto, use this on every vehicle I have. Make the the vehicle see it as car play but display a full Android interface. I use turn on my phone hot spot every time I go in the car. https://a.co/d/fm6DHGI

Got both here. Should fit. I should have purchased another color. Feels like I bought the same vehicle twice.

Thanks, I'm pretty excited for the extra power. It'll be my first ever diesel, this will be all new to me. Looks like one point for every $5 spent. Now I gotta see what a little 10k points get me.

Btw: does anyone know if my 2019 tonneau cover will transfer over? I have the OEM rebadge of the retract electric cover that I would love to keep. I don't pick up the truck until Friday so I gotta plan on accessories now. It's the Christmas Eve period for me l.

In fact, consider this case closed. A few hours ago I just signed for a 2025, RST z71 same motor and a few additional features. I really wanted the surround camera and the park sensor but couldn't fit it into the budget. I'll buy the intellihual 3.0 and add it later. Ive always had 2 vehicles, a commuter and the the truck for hauling stuff around and towing. With the diesel mpg so good, I decided to splurge on the truck and make it my daily. @bikerjin at the moment I still have it. Is back in the shop again for a check engine light. Which was actually the reason why I decided just to go ahead and buy a new truck.

Looking at a certified 66k miles RST Z71 and a brand new 4WD LT pretty much a base with front bucket seats with the only option added, The 2023 is $40k OTD the new is 50k OTD with all of my incentives. I'm essentially getting the new one for about 14k off MSRP which IMO is really good. Z71 is nice but I don't do much off roading, the only thing that I will find useful on the used model is the safety package and the trailering features. As it will be used to tow a 7k lb boat. I belive both share the same newer lz0 engine? Mileage aside, the CPO warranty at the end of the day on a 2023 will be very similar to the new warranty. Any reason to spend the extra 10k on the 2025 with less feature and knowing that i'm the first to drive it?

I found a local shop that can do lifters and camshaft for $3500 parts and labor this will be the route I will likely go. When I asked about DFM delete, he said he would just install all OEM parts and tune the car to permanently disable DFM. In my mind, this is no different than using the range technology DFM disabler. He can also install the DFM delete for me as well. Labor is 2200 with me providing the kit. Which way is the way to go?

Is rolling legit? I saw them but didn't see any way to contact for customer service. SDPC looks legit.

That's kind of the route I'm leaning towards but here's the problem we can't even order the motor. Call a friend that have a shop and he said even dealers don't have the long block. The only one I see that have something right now is promar but it's a reman. 3 years 75k warranty which is fine. 5100 shipped for the motor and 1500 to drop it in. I can live with that. But if I can get new for a little more I'd much rather do that. Oth, I see lots of 23, 24 motors which I hear doesn't have dfm but don't think they will go in 2019.

To drop in a new crate motor, labor is only $1300, I think going with a new long block is my best bet. Can anyone of you recommend on where to get one?

I bought it from a private seller on Facebook I have since lost all the contacts. I'm not sure how to address it. Even if there's a way it's probably going to be a long winding process probably not worth it.

The odometer reads at 85k miles but I was a victim of an odometer rollback, from what the service department have on record, the last service was 121k 7months before i purchased it, DMV flagged my vehicle with a "not accurate" odometer now when I purchased as a clean title. my guest the actual mile is probably 135-140k, my other thought process is to fix the minimal to clear all the error and get the truck running again then trade it in for a 23+ 3.0 Diesel or at least a 5.3 with no DFM. Brand new equivalent model 3.0l is about $50k, almost make no sense to pay $45k for a preown. This truck is probably worth 18-22k and if I'm lucky I can get 15-17k trade in with the branded title assume they take it.

unfortunately not, debating on if I should do a delete or just buy a new motor.

Some more bad news, looks like my cam is shot as well. a $1500 job just turned into a 3500 labor only job. Gotta pull the motor to replace the cams. AFM delete kit from AMS is about 1600, so for about $5500-6000 to get it running again with the delete. How much is a crate motor going for?

I've already purchased the lifters to start the rebuild. Mechanic is going to take it apart tomorrow. Only 1 side of the lifter is bad, so I'm rebuilding just the 1 side and going to trade it in.

Sounds like this engine is nothing but problems. Not sure how reliable is the 3.0l duramax but I started to looking into it as a potential candidate to trade this one in even b4 this failure.

my 2019 5.3 driver side lifter is bad. Mechanic said I only need to rebuild one side as at a time as he charges a flat rate per side. I tried searching Google and there doesn't seem to be a "rebuild kit" Parts department aren't mechanic so they can only quote me on what they think I'll need. Is there a recommend part to replace? I plan on redoing all lifters on the one side since it's already popped opened.

I should have googled, it's an ambient air sensor for those that's interested. https://www.duramaxforum.com/threads/ambient-air-sensor-location.1028745/

I just noticed under the passenger mirror there's this sensor, there's a wire that's connected to it but on the driver side, I did not see one It's that little indentation under the mirror in the photo

The enclosure is sealed. Can't remember if the sub is a vt or vr but I remember looking at it and thinking the sub is underpowered with a 200w amp that it comes with but I don't blast my music so it didn't bother me. However, it did cross my mind to perhaps try to fit a jl 10tw3 in the space but the mounting points are different. https://infotainment.com/shop/interior-accessories/amplifier-sound-solutions/g-kitsubw-19tk/

The sub itself sits on the hump. Google is your friend

Depending on your truck you may have to get a different model #. But my kit is like the one in the link below. Unscrew the sub amp from the box, the dip switches are behind a rubber cover on the bottom of the amp. Get the kicker bass knob on Amazon. https://a.co/d/djzRQvd https://404parts.com/products/400-watt-subwoofer-kit-by-kicker®?variant=44120691605674&currency=USD&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_medium=ppc&utm_source=google&utm content=shopping_listing&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwwr6wBhBcEiwAfMEQs5pYm1lN1NFXNOG6soOvrlgOpiGpM4BQRBZgdnsFDClF2rolXxF3zBoCQ9wQAvD_BwE

I just installed the kicker GM kit with the additional 4 channel amp on my 2019 (non bose). You CAN add a bass knob to it by flipping the dip switch to all on and buying the kicker bass knob. I was going to do the hideaway sub route as well but the GM kit makes it looks like it belongs there and having the storage design was an added benefit.