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    'Silveraider' 2014 Silverado RCLB

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Salcon's Achievements


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  1. No pictures, but * Got Denali cluster back from WAMS and installed * Ebay blue CAI * Steering wheel controls functioning, Stinger Heigh10+PAC kit configuration finalised And confirmed a bunch of what I speculated as far as exactly how the steering wheel controls work. The cluster uses a dedicated LIN network (between cluster and steering wheel controls only). Audio controls are then passed from the cluster to the media system via the MOST network. Two separate incompatible networks, with the cluster acting as a man-in-the-middle translator. A WT mono colour screen cluster does not have this LIN network, and the harness to the cluster does not have this wire populated. The PAC came with a T harness to connect to the clockspring, to connect to the LIN wire of the steering wheel controls. However, just tapping into the steering wheel controls alone was not enough. The reason is because the cluster sends a message to the steering wheel controls via LIN to wake them up. Most devices that use LIN in the GM world, need to be told to wake up. It appears the GM51 PAC module fails to send this wake up message. I had no functionality of controls with the Heigh10. Since I still had a WT cluster, it was not until I installed my Denali cluster and connected the steering controls to the LIN on pin 20 of the new cluster, that I got them working with my Heigh10 through the GM51 module. Looking at another thread here on GM-Trucks, it seems other brands of interface kits have the same issue. 3 mods to check off, many more to go
  2. [I have a 2014, but I suspect the pin locations and colours are the same for a 2017] The horn on these K2 trucks is fairly straight forward. The steering wheel button signal goes through the clockspring, and feeds a ground signal into the Body Control Module (BCM Green connector, pin 18, wire colour Green/White) when the horn button is pressed. The BCM outputs a switched ground to the horn relay inside the underhood fuse box (BCM Brown connector, pin 19, wire colour Brown/White). Inside the fuse box, the horn relay coil has one side connected to B+, and the other to the BCM control. With the switch contacts, one side is tied to B+, the output is through fuse 48 and to the horn(s). The real question, is if you have a bad relay, or worse... bad BCM output. You can do a simple test - With the keys out of the ignition, unplug the brown connector from the BCM. The BCM is right behind the floor brake pedal, its a black box with 7 coloured connectors. With the brown connector unplugged, reinstall your horn fuse, F48. IF your horn still blares non-stop, you most likely have a bad relay. If the horn does not blast, you could have a bad BCM output, or, you could have a bad clockspring/horn button. You can do some pinpoint tests too. Pull fuse 48, reconnect any BCM connectors you unplugged, and reconnect your battery. Measuring voltage to ground, measure the brown/white wire as well as the green/white wires previously mentioned. You should have close to 12 volts normally with horn button not pressed. When you press and hold the horn button, you should see those drop to near zero. They should return to around 12 volts when you let off the horn button. If so, this means your horn button and BCM output are working correctly, and you have a bad horn relay. If the green/white wire stays zero all the time, disconnect the green connector from BCM and measure resistance to ground on green/white wire. If this is near zero ohms regardless if horn button is pressed or not, you have a bad button, clockspring, or a short to ground somewhere. Most likely though, you will find you have a bad internal horn relay. It is a circuit board mounted relay. If your BCM output is working as intended, and you want to save some cash and not replace the fuse block, you can keep fuse 48 removed, and add your own relay. Just a matter of tapping the brown/white wire at the BCM (this is easier then at the fuse block, but you can do it there too), and tapping the horn feed. 4 pin relay, and 2 fuse holders will do. 2 or 3 amp for the relay coil, and 15A for the horn output. You will want to of course, make sure you buy a relay socket that has a protection diode (and mind the polarity applied to coil), else you could spike your BCM. The BCM likely already has spike protection, but still good to be on the safe side. Considering what you described, before the horn fully failed in the on position, it sounds like your horn relay switch contacts were going bad and in the last straw they got stuck together. EDIT - And if you are feeling really adventurous, the horn relay can be replaced. It is tedious to open the fuse block, but totally doable. Relay is an F&T Fujitsu FTR-P3AN012W1.
  3. I am thinking you are talking about the accent trim panels? I only have a regular cab, but I recently picked up a crew cab set. The rear trim panels should unsnap if you pull them straight to you as you face them. Here is one of the rear panels so you can see how the clips and orientation of them are. I was not originally going to go with this colour at all, but I found this full set, for a really good price. Colour is Grand Momiji. I have to say... it kind of is growing on me. Its a bit like marble, but with copper colour instead of the usual greys and white. There were quite a few colours available, but not easily found second hand. I've never done any grain wrap, so cannot comment on that
  4. Yeah the long work weeks has really been a drag, it was because the other tech for my area cold turkey quit... Now its just me, and it's hard to find any capable replacement. Basically doing the work of two, however, it has been great for making some goals finally fundable without any worry though I have the Mcgaughys installed now. I had planned on doing a video and recorded the install I did in my garage, just never got to the editing as I didn't think there would be much interest. Kit has been great though... albeit now the 33" tires I have seem too small haha. Rubbing on these trucks an achilles heel.
  5. Makes me wonder exactly what intergrated circuits exactly are not available for these features. If nothing has changed from the k2 platform, there isnt a massive amount going on in the heated seats module (or memory module). Heated steering wheel really baffles me, they were so simple on the K2 platform... just a little box with a mosfet. The engineer in me wants to think that wiring and motors and that kind of stuff isnt short... Thus... the core components can be installed, with the intentions of just installing the modules down the road (GM can ship these to dealers, programmed for the VINs that were to be sold with them originally). What I do know for sure, is those credits suck! It costs a hella lot more to add these features down the road, and a real pain.
  6. I have just purchased a full set of Denali heated/cooled 10 way power seats, and will be doing this upgrade soon on my 14 RCLB 2WT Silverado. I have not looked at the wiring in my truck to see if the power wires are populated (I will be installing these one way or another regardless). There are a lot of discussions about this, but the general gist of things are two things: 1. You may or may not have the power feeds populated in the main seat connector (big yellow plug under seat). 2. Depending on the seats you buy (memory vs no memory, heated/cooled or not, Denali, etc) you may need to bypass the memory seat module and/or reconfigure the seat position sensor. Harness Dr sells some harnesses to resolve these issues (pgamboa on these forums). If your capable of working with wiring (cutting, soldering, etc) then most of the work is fairly easy. If you do not buy seats that have the memory module, then just power/ground is needed. Getting heated/cooling functionality working is much more involved process, not for the faint hearted. If you do have memory seats, the module is easily bypassed by applying power to pin23 red/black wire, in addition to the main power wire (red/yellow, pin 2). Here is one of several threads, with a lot of posts, about seat swaps: The vast majority of trucks are crew cab, but I see no reason seat upgrades cannot be done to regular cabs. If you like, I can post updates here on how my install results. It may take a month, depending on postage and delivery of the seats and my work schedule (75+ hours a week). First stage will be just getting the seats in, power movement working, and airbag system happy. Heated/cooling will be the second stage, but that will take much longer as I have to develop a controller to interface with the seats and the OEM controls. There is an option to have your BCM reprogrammed to enable heated seats (among other things), but this is $250USD+ ($600USD if you go the AutoSync method). I will be doing it my own way.
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