garyo

I'm looking at ordering a 2500 and looking at the dual alternator and aux battery options. My thoughts are being able to charge and run a DC/DC to charger camper batteries, from the aux battery and 2nd. alternator. Keeping it completely separate from the primary battery and truck electrical system. Will this work? Thanks, garyo

Well, it seemed to work just fine. I'm sure it all ended up through the throttle body plate, intake and runners to the valves. garyo

Since I did not get any feedback, here is what I did... Warm up engine. Also, I have the factory performance upgrade. Remove MAS from air intake duct (leave it plugged in), wrap in plastic bag (keep plastic away from the element or it will melt the bag and ruin it) and move to front lower air box so it doesn’t move around. Remove air filter as you spray the cleaner directly into the air intake. Set up your pedal assist device, start engine. It will not want to idle or be very rough. Push pedal to about 2K RPM and set pedal assist device. When the engine is nice and steady at the desired RPM, start spraying cleaner into the air intake in bursts of 3 or 4 seconds. Continue until the spray can is empty. You may need to readjust the pedal assist device to maintain 2 to 2.5 K RPM, I did not have to. When the can is empty, rev engine three times not to exceed 3.5 K RPM. Let engine idle or as close as possible for one minute then shut off. Carefully clean out air box, reinstall filter and MAS. Check all connections then let engine heat soak for about an hour. Then, go for a good drive and everything should be okay, but maybe still a little rough. Next day drove it again so I could change the oil and it ran just fine. I would recommend changing the oil and filter after. If a check engine lite is set, just turn it off with a scanner. My truck did not set a DTC.

I’m at 30K and would like to do one. Saw a video about it, seems simple enough. Any opinions on it or any “gotchas” I should be aware of? I do have the GM performance upgrade installed. (GM CAI, cat-back exhaust) Thanks garyo

Something else to check. Watching some ytube videos from WrenchingwithKenny, He's seen a few of these and it turned out to be a plug wire came loose. Kenny goes on to explain, and it makes sense to me, is that the fit of the boot on the coil is so air tight that if too much air is trapped in there when putting the wire on that when it goes through the heat/cool cycle that the air expands and slowly pushes the boot off. just an idea. good luck

RPaul, I big thanks for posting both the video and the solution! This may really help someone one day. garyo

Not a GM expert, but check out these two links: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0498 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0499 I would try and activate the solenoid with 12v and listen to whether it is actually clicking. Then inspect the connector looking for dirt, corrosion, or maybe a pin backing out. Follow back the wiring as far as you can to see if anything is damaged. Good luck, AND please report back when you get it fixed, we really want to know! garyo

A thin but strong L-bracket, pushed down on top of the driver’s side air vent. Where the soft outer ring meets with the dash. My bracket was about 1-½” long on that part of the bracket, I just pushed it down in the crack. It seems to be tight enough. The bracket is 1-3/4” wide, I think anything up to about 2-1/4” width bracket would work. The cable runs down the side of the air vent trim ring following along under and then into the seam by the removable fuse cover. I used a side cutter to notch out a spot where the cable would enter the fuse area. Don’t forget to chamfer the sharp edges of the cover so nothing sharp can cut into the cable. Then you can route the extra cable down through the hole under the lower edge of the fuse cover which is part of the lower door trim and pull just the OBDII connector enough to reach the DLC which is just a couple of inches inboard. I bent the L-bracket to get the correct viewing angle for me. I also cut off the extra so it would be even with the mounted gauge. Make sure not to mount it too close to Instrument Panel hood. I mounted mine about 1-1/2” away so the plugged-in cable would have a gentle bend going straight down. Scangauge included tape-mount Velcro, which is what I used to mount the gauge to the bracket. Then I used some very thin strips of 3M VHB behind the cable as it ran down the trim. See pics below Also anybody know what to do with the HPR gauge? How does Scangauge calculate it? Seems useless to me. garyo

What is your opinion about the magnet being glued on? I have seen some reviews where the magnet fell off in transit, not very confidence inspiring. Especially when both the block and pan are aluminum, if the magnet comes off it's going to stick to a moving part, not good. I know the Dorman is glued on, but don't know about the Dimple-sent em an email. Thanks for the replies. garyo

Which magnetic drain plug? All I have seen have glued in magnet. Any recommendations? garyo

Thanks for the reply, I'll look at it. garyo

I need a Run fuse, not accessory or service mode. A power location that is only active when the engine is running. Anybody know of one? Some suggested the Heated steering wheel but it is active in service mode. Thanks, garyo

Something else on the USB C, I believe that is used for charging only. Make sure when you get the USB C cable that it is rated for charging or it won't work. There are a lot of cheapie USB C cables so get a good one. I use the port to charge my laptop and it woks quite well. garyo

Ah, now I understand. We do not get ice very often, but if we do I'll know what to look for. Good post, thanks for the heads up. garyo

Do you mean water and ice is getting between the end of your tailgate and bed, then freezing and actually pushing the bed out away from the edge of the tailgate or actually bending the tailgate? Can you get a picture of this? garyo