garyo

I'm looking at ordering a 2500 and looking at the dual alternator and aux battery options. My thoughts are being able to charge and run a DC/DC to charger camper batteries, from the aux battery and 2nd. alternator. Keeping it completely separate from the primary battery and truck electrical system. Will this work? Thanks, garyo

Well, it seemed to work just fine. I'm sure it all ended up through the throttle body plate, intake and runners to the valves. garyo

Since I did not get any feedback, here is what I did... Warm up engine. Also, I have the factory performance upgrade. Remove MAS from air intake duct (leave it plugged in), wrap in plastic bag (keep plastic away from the element or it will melt the bag and ruin it) and move to front lower air box so it doesn’t move around. Remove air filter as you spray the cleaner directly into the air intake. Set up your pedal assist device, start engine. It will not want to idle or be very rough. Push pedal to about 2K RPM and set pedal assist device. When the engine is nice and steady at the desired RPM, start spraying cleaner into the air intake in bursts of 3 or 4 seconds. Continue until the spray can is empty. You may need to readjust the pedal assist device to maintain 2 to 2.5 K RPM, I did not have to. When the can is empty, rev engine three times not to exceed 3.5 K RPM. Let engine idle or as close as possible for one minute then shut off. Carefully clean out air box, reinstall filter and MAS. Check all connections then let engine heat soak for about an hour. Then, go for a good drive and everything should be okay, but maybe still a little rough. Next day drove it again so I could change the oil and it ran just fine. I would recommend changing the oil and filter after. If a check engine lite is set, just turn it off with a scanner. My truck did not set a DTC.

I’m at 30K and would like to do one. Saw a video about it, seems simple enough. Any opinions on it or any “gotchas” I should be aware of? I do have the GM performance upgrade installed. (GM CAI, cat-back exhaust) Thanks garyo

Something else to check. Watching some ytube videos from WrenchingwithKenny, He's seen a few of these and it turned out to be a plug wire came loose. Kenny goes on to explain, and it makes sense to me, is that the fit of the boot on the coil is so air tight that if too much air is trapped in there when putting the wire on that when it goes through the heat/cool cycle that the air expands and slowly pushes the boot off. just an idea. good luck

RPaul, I big thanks for posting both the video and the solution! This may really help someone one day. garyo

Not a GM expert, but check out these two links: https://www.obd-codes.com/p0498 https://www.obd-codes.com/p0499 I would try and activate the solenoid with 12v and listen to whether it is actually clicking. Then inspect the connector looking for dirt, corrosion, or maybe a pin backing out. Follow back the wiring as far as you can to see if anything is damaged. Good luck, AND please report back when you get it fixed, we really want to know! garyo

A thin but strong L-bracket, pushed down on top of the driver’s side air vent. Where the soft outer ring meets with the dash. My bracket was about 1-½” long on that part of the bracket, I just pushed it down in the crack. It seems to be tight enough. The bracket is 1-3/4” wide, I think anything up to about 2-1/4” width bracket would work. The cable runs down the side of the air vent trim ring following along under and then into the seam by the removable fuse cover. I used a side cutter to notch out a spot where the cable would enter the fuse area. Don’t forget to chamfer the sharp edges of the cover so nothing sharp can cut into the cable. Then you can route the extra cable down through the hole under the lower edge of the fuse cover which is part of the lower door trim and pull just the OBDII connector enough to reach the DLC which is just a couple of inches inboard. I bent the L-bracket to get the correct viewing angle for me. I also cut off the extra so it would be even with the mounted gauge. Make sure not to mount it too close to Instrument Panel hood. I mounted mine about 1-1/2” away so the plugged-in cable would have a gentle bend going straight down. Scangauge included tape-mount Velcro, which is what I used to mount the gauge to the bracket. Then I used some very thin strips of 3M VHB behind the cable as it ran down the trim. See pics below Also anybody know what to do with the HPR gauge? How does Scangauge calculate it? Seems useless to me. garyo

What is your opinion about the magnet being glued on? I have seen some reviews where the magnet fell off in transit, not very confidence inspiring. Especially when both the block and pan are aluminum, if the magnet comes off it's going to stick to a moving part, not good. I know the Dorman is glued on, but don't know about the Dimple-sent em an email. Thanks for the replies. garyo

Which magnetic drain plug? All I have seen have glued in magnet. Any recommendations? garyo

Thanks for the reply, I'll look at it. garyo

I need a Run fuse, not accessory or service mode. A power location that is only active when the engine is running. Anybody know of one? Some suggested the Heated steering wheel but it is active in service mode. Thanks, garyo

Something else on the USB C, I believe that is used for charging only. Make sure when you get the USB C cable that it is rated for charging or it won't work. There are a lot of cheapie USB C cables so get a good one. I use the port to charge my laptop and it woks quite well. garyo

Ah, now I understand. We do not get ice very often, but if we do I'll know what to look for. Good post, thanks for the heads up. garyo

Do you mean water and ice is getting between the end of your tailgate and bed, then freezing and actually pushing the bed out away from the edge of the tailgate or actually bending the tailgate? Can you get a picture of this? garyo

I'm thinking about these: https://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Cooper&tireModel=Discoverer+AT3+4S&partnum=67TR8DA4SOWL&fromSurvey=true

Thanks for the tip. On the 25 mile setting best was 29.2, and on the 400 mile setting it was 21.9. Quite amazing I think. Amazing trucks we have! My last couple of trucks were about 14 so this is a huge improvement.

How do I get a 400 mile average? I have not seen this before. garyo

20 RST Z71 CC 6.2L w/the factory performance package, 18” wheels, standard tow. 6675 miles and just did an O & F change and emptied the JLT can. First off this is my second DI engine, the first is a 2008 Mazda CX 7 turbo, and when I change the oil on that, I smelled more fuel than dirty oil. It has 186K miles and still runs good, wife’s car. On my oil change today on the truck, I smelled more dirty oil than fuel, I’m happy. It was very dirty and had the first oil change from the dealer at about 2,400 miles. The oil filter was almost loose, easily removed by hand, no tool. The pan plug was torqued to around 3,000 Ft.Lbs. and I thought that I was going to break it. Typical dealer stuff, I do most all of my own maintenance on my vehicles. If the oil is that dirty at the next change of 13K, I’ll back it down to 6K OCI. Less than $50 for 2-5qt. jugs of Pennzoil Platinum 0W-20 and the PL22500 Purolator One filter. I love this truck, I keep my trucks for the long haul and my previous 3500 was 20 years old and 186K, I traded it in on the new one. What a jump in technology. There are some UI issues I would like different, but it is what it is. Even though I’m an old man, I’m adaptable and have work arounds. This thing is a beast, and dare I say, easily enters into the sports car performance arena when needed. I usually drive like an old man to get that kind of mileage, but not always. I have run mid-grade since I picked it up and it runs just fine, good mileage and no ping. I also run top tier fuels, mostly BP. As far as mods go, I may replace the shocks with the Bilstein 6112/5160 combo later this year. Either the 1.2 or 1.6 lift, not sure and then add a bigger block to the rear. I am also considering larger tires, Cooper Discover AT3 4S in 265/70/18. The shocks and tires should get me just under a 2” lift. The tires are light duty AT and would work good for what I drive on. No cosmetic mods, I don’t care about looks, performance, durability, and reliability are the only things that interest me. I use my truck as a truck for my business, I carry stock and tools, and run service calls with it. I’ve been a member here for 12 or 13 years; I just don’t post much. Way more interesting to read. This is a great forum for our trucks, I thoroughly enjoy reading everyone’s posts. There are some really knowledgeable people who post here and I really appreciate them sharing what they know. Don’t know of any better forum to discuss our trucks. Any questions, ask away. garyo

Had mine checked last week-no problem. Service writer said they had looked at a bunch of them and not one was incorrectly assembled. Mine came from Mexico and so far so good. No issues.

Are you sure it is coming from the intake? I installed one on mine and noticed the typical hissing associated with a vacuum leak and thought the same thing. I checked all connections but could not find a leak. I called JLT and the guy said that they may make a slight hissing sound. I watched it closely and got no engine check light and my performance and mileage remained the same, so I just monitor it now. I have put over 4K miles on since installing the can and am very happy with it. Top notch design and engineering. It was suggested to make sure the "O" rings inside the fittings are lubed with a little bit of oil when installing. Let us know what you find out. garyo

With my 2020 I just followed the owners manual, but I did have both key fobs. I think there is a procedure in there that addresses having just one fob but it takes a little bit of time. As far as I can tell the key has nothing to do with fob programming. After I programmed my new fobs it was a few days of using them before I got the keys cut. The keys are just metal no electronics in them. Gary

I don't think it is, I think the fuses are the new MICRO2 and MICRO3 fuses. among a few others. garyo

Are these the correct fuses for our truck? https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-NO-43-Blade-Tester-Puller/dp/B000DCN9BW/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8 Thanks, garyo

Thanks everybody for the reply's. LSUtiger Did you use the procedure in the users manual? Did your newly cut key finally work correctly? Thanks, garyo