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  1. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=4035387786493610&id=994363517262734&m_entstream_source=video_home&player_suborigin=entry_point&player_format=permalink&anchor_composer=false
  2. I have been blocked from viewing all of those posts and blocked from commenting on any post. The shop has held firm on their statements. May need to stop by like they offered to witness in person. Thanks everybody for the replies and input. Was considering this tuner, quoted $800-$1000 last year for customers vehicle. Going to continue shopping around.
  3. That was yesterday's news, here's today. Gets better. 2015/Silverado/5.3L 191rwhp up to 328rwhp
  4. Am on phone and no sleep, good catch actually reading the info. What do you think if they were in manual shift mode and upshifted a bunch. Guy says they had pedal to the floor.
  5. Had feeling AFM or speed limiter kicked in 4th gear or something providing a lower base pull peak #.
  6. Local dyno shop posted this... 2016(on dyno sheet)/2017(on FB post) Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L - stock Base pull: 213rwhp/275ft-lb tq Final tune: 319rwhp/378ft-lb tq https://m.facebook.com/InternationalDynoAuthority/ Anyone seen this done before? Is the statement misleading as the base # may be very low for off the lot which makes final number look like a significantly higher gain? Is it normal for a 2016 or 2017 5.3L to only put down 213rwhp at WOT bone stock?
  7. Currently have matching factory style tint on sides and rear, looking to add some to front. Truck driven occasionally once or twice a week day or night, sometimes longer distance during day hours if on a trip. Options are: - dark eyebrow - 88% fully tinted windshield - 40% fully tinted windshield - nothing, leave clear as is If anyone could post a pic of a white crew cab, a GMC Sierra would be even better with one of these options it would be appreciated.
  8. okey dokey, here we go....opened door, dash light up with "Service 4wd", started engine, backed up 10ft, front diff is stuck in full lock, will keep you posted. Update 1: (1/2hr quick check in driveway) Disconnected the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes, removed "4wd trac" fuse, reconnected battery, heard actuator noise, reinstalled fuse, heard actuator noise. Sounded as though the actuator had steady power and removing the fuse turned it off. Checked around top and bottom but was now dark and lots of skid plate underneath. Update 2: (Took truck to dealer) Check and advise for service AWD message - vehicle stuck in 4 low. - Tech cause: scan for codes c0398 in transfer case control module - Tech comments: check for software updates and cancel codes, check range sensor for corrosion, range sensor has crack and is swollen Added operation: transfer case range sensor corroded diag and replace range sensor and set up Tech cause: transfer case range sensor shorted - Tech comments: replace transfer case range sensor and relearn to tccm . as per est. 1.00 - 84377721 - Sensor $194.08 (CDN$) - Tech cause: transfer case range sensor shorted - Tech comments: replace transfer case range sensor and relearn to tccm . as per est. Labour $193.50 (CDN$) Environmental charge $5.00 (CDN$) HST $51.04 (CDN$ - Ontario) Total $443.62 (CDN$)
  9. Would like to try asap, but it was -32degC here today, not worth it. That day I was about to order everything inside the door shell. Hopefully can test this theory next couple of days.
  10. Nope, drove 1/2hr no warning lights. To add to the issue I had 2min to get to where I needed to be, panic did set in a bit, I would like to watch the lot security footage, LoL.
  11. In case any of you come across this random issue in the winter. Was freezing rain all night, scrapped off truck in the morning, jumped in, got to town, could not open drivers door from the inside, tried all the usual answers(lock-unlock-key on-key off-start-drive-park, etc..), climbed out the passenger side. That afternoon, walked out to truck and found door handle pulled out a little thinking maybe it froze...nope a small slab of ice was jammed between handle and door. Removed ice, door now opens from both sides with no issue. Going to place something in there again when I get a chance to test this theory. Seems as though if outside handle is not completely pushed in it prevents the inside handle from working?
  12. Not the 'XP' version, but I finally discovered what the big difference is between PF63e, 57045, and 10255XP...about 0.350"-0.400", which when the k-member in directly below the filter, you lose all ability to use a oil filter cup wrench. Install is not an issue as you normally tighten by hand, but removal requires a shallow single size cup or a belt style removal tool. The 10255XP is a lot closer in height to the pf63e. The 57045 is wayyyy to tall. WIX site shows 57045 at 4.828"(measures same in actual) and the 10255XP at 4.776", which is only 0.050" which is like a flake of rust or scrapping the undercoating, it was definitely more than that. I forgot to measure the 10255XP but there was way more clearance as I tried a standard 15-74/76 cup on it and there was no issue.
  13. Thanks for posting this info. I have debated between the 57045 and the 10255xp for a while, now that it is 10255 reg and xp, makes a little more sense. It is a bit interesting though. They are increasing the required pressure of the valve to prevent "dirty" oil from entering, but at the same time extending the function of the filter element. For cold starts I guess it doesn't matter as the pressure is likely much higher, but to someone with very clean oil would you kind of want the bypass to have a lower rating. As well, after a little research there are some filters which have a small filter/screen on the bypass valve. It would be nice to have these oil filter valve sepcifications for other vehicles, when swapping brands of filters. I guess we mostly leave the trust in the parts supplier to provide a properly spec'd filter.
  14. Noticed a delay in engine starting up, would roll over a little longer than normal the past week or so, thought it was the drop in temperature or maybe due for plugs at 60k. This morning it was -25degC/-10degF and it would just roll over and not fire. Tried several times, no go. Went back out 15min later and it started, then engine light came on. Plugged in reader and had p1682 code. With it still being under warranty took into dealer and had them make record of it and to diagnose. Well I got a surprise when my total was $59.59 out the door for diagnostic check, parts, and labor. 3yr bumper to bumper had expired, still has 5yr powertrain. This issue NOT covered under warranty. Quick summary: 2014 GMC Sierra 1500 5.3L 60k Tech comments: verified complaint, no start, vehicle eventually started, scanned for dtcs, p0689 engine control ignition feedback circuit low voltage, p1682 ignition 1 switch 2, found bulletin #PIT5253B, replaced relay #70 ecm as per bulletin, also checked battery, battery tested good at 625cca, cleared dcts, all ok. Parts: 1.00, 13595508, Relay, $11.99
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