COP TZR

Agree. That local shop has posted stuff like this for years. It looks the latest graph should be for an overdriven roots blower. Your graph looks realistic and I would trust Davenport. I only post this to confirm I'm not crazy and to read others opinions.

I have a bet in writing with the shop owner. Unfortunately he could not pay for another deal so I have not found the free time or interest to donate to this pissing match. I use other Dyno shops in the area. Unfortunately I had to deal with this shops claims after a mustang club Dyno day they recently held which took me back to their FB page and the b.s. rabbit hole... I posted this on the forum to confirm I'm not crazy thinking the numbers are being scaled down for baseline and scaled up for final. Thank you everyone for the feedback.

Sorry about that. I didn't realize until I went back to confirm any modifications. I posted in the 2014-2018/19 section after that. ^^ here's the link

I posted this in the 2019-up group, but realized this is a "classic" model, so will share here. Same Dyno shop as original post. Here is a 2019, the same Dyno shop has posted this week. Description shows "modified exhaust system" and "oversize over width tires/rims"

If anyone has seen my previous gen thread: Here is a 2019, the same Dyno shop has posted this week. Description shows "modified exhaust system" and "oversize over width tires/rims"

Disappointed it looks like 2015-2019, not 2014-2019. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2022/03/gm-hit-with-class-action-lawsuit-for-peeling-paint-on-chevy-and-gmc-trucks/

Disappointed it looks like 2015-2019, not 2014-2019. https://gmauthority.com/blog/2022/03/gm-hit-with-class-action-lawsuit-for-peeling-paint-on-chevy-and-gmc-trucks/

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=4035387786493610&id=994363517262734&m_entstream_source=video_home&player_suborigin=entry_point&player_format=permalink&anchor_composer=false

from a different shop using hub dyno

I have been blocked from viewing all of those posts and blocked from commenting on any post. The shop has held firm on their statements. May need to stop by like they offered to witness in person. Thanks everybody for the replies and input. Was considering this tuner, quoted $800-$1000 last year for customers vehicle. Going to continue shopping around.

That was yesterday's news, here's today. Gets better. 2015/Silverado/5.3L 191rwhp up to 328rwhp

Am on phone and no sleep, good catch actually reading the info. What do you think if they were in manual shift mode and upshifted a bunch. Guy says they had pedal to the floor.

Had feeling AFM or speed limiter kicked in 4th gear or something providing a lower base pull peak #.

Local dyno shop posted this... 2016(on dyno sheet)/2017(on FB post) Chevrolet Silverado 5.3L - stock Base pull: 213rwhp/275ft-lb tq Final tune: 319rwhp/378ft-lb tq https://m.facebook.com/InternationalDynoAuthority/ Anyone seen this done before? Is the statement misleading as the base # may be very low for off the lot which makes final number look like a significantly higher gain? Is it normal for a 2016 or 2017 5.3L to only put down 213rwhp at WOT bone stock?

okey dokey, here we go....opened door, dash light up with "Service 4wd", started engine, backed up 10ft, front diff is stuck in full lock, will keep you posted. Update 1: (1/2hr quick check in driveway) Disconnected the negative battery terminal for 10 minutes, removed "4wd trac" fuse, reconnected battery, heard actuator noise, reinstalled fuse, heard actuator noise. Sounded as though the actuator had steady power and removing the fuse turned it off. Checked around top and bottom but was now dark and lots of skid plate underneath. Update 2: (Took truck to dealer) Check and advise for service AWD message - vehicle stuck in 4 low. - Tech cause: scan for codes c0398 in transfer case control module - Tech comments: check for software updates and cancel codes, check range sensor for corrosion, range sensor has crack and is swollen Added operation: transfer case range sensor corroded diag and replace range sensor and set up Tech cause: transfer case range sensor shorted - Tech comments: replace transfer case range sensor and relearn to tccm . as per est. 1.00 - 84377721 - Sensor $194.08 (CDN$) - Tech cause: transfer case range sensor shorted - Tech comments: replace transfer case range sensor and relearn to tccm . as per est. Labour $193.50 (CDN$) Environmental charge $5.00 (CDN$) HST $51.04 (CDN$ - Ontario) Total $443.62 (CDN$)

Not the 'XP' version, but I finally discovered what the big difference is between PF63e, 57045, and 10255XP...about 0.350"-0.400", which when the k-member in directly below the filter, you lose all ability to use a oil filter cup wrench. Install is not an issue as you normally tighten by hand, but removal requires a shallow single size cup or a belt style removal tool. The 10255XP is a lot closer in height to the pf63e. The 57045 is wayyyy to tall. WIX site shows 57045 at 4.828"(measures same in actual) and the 10255XP at 4.776", which is only 0.050" which is like a flake of rust or scrapping the undercoating, it was definitely more than that. I forgot to measure the 10255XP but there was way more clearance as I tried a standard 15-74/76 cup on it and there was no issue.

Thanks for posting this info. I have debated between the 57045 and the 10255xp for a while, now that it is 10255 reg and xp, makes a little more sense. It is a bit interesting though. They are increasing the required pressure of the valve to prevent "dirty" oil from entering, but at the same time extending the function of the filter element. For cold starts I guess it doesn't matter as the pressure is likely much higher, but to someone with very clean oil would you kind of want the bypass to have a lower rating. As well, after a little research there are some filters which have a small filter/screen on the bypass valve. It would be nice to have these oil filter valve sepcifications for other vehicles, when swapping brands of filters. I guess we mostly leave the trust in the parts supplier to provide a properly spec'd filter.

No need to explain the manufacturing industry, I've worked from maintenance to technician to automation machine designer for almost 20 years. "having someone completely strip and restore frame to higher standard." Meaning to have a private shop, automotive restoration company, or collision center to remove frame, strip to bare metal and apply more durable coating. I've been around classic cars and large trucks for many years, there are some great looking and/or durable finishes available. Of course, this would be out of your own pocket cost, which sucks. I chose to get what I could out of dealer until warranty expires. It is embarrassing when I have a 2004 GM car with 340,000km with only signs of paint bubbling underneath parked next to a 2014 GM truck with only 34,000km and 50% rusted frame.

Anyone new here and first time getting frame "recoated" from dealer, be prepared for the disappointment within a year. Only thing that will fix this issue is a new replacement frame with higher quality coating or having someone completely strip and restore frame to higher standard.

Well, now I have to dig up the paperwork...the past couple weeks have been getting a squeaking noise every time we make a stop. Tried moving the adjustments around, nothing helps. Took a quick look, does not look like a bunch of new parts underneath, so going to have to do some digging. Definitely still no side to side movement like before when turning.

Just got it done, didn't notice in short drive home, have to dig up paperwork of what exactly they did. Was in/out in a day.

Just added this item to the list for dealer to service. I notice more with slow turns to the right off highway into parking lot. They said they have seen this before and will likely need a "bracket kit".

No sunroof here and truck parking with front end high, so will be interesting what excuse the dealer has.

Nice to see, have same set-up...waiting to order tires.

^^^I'm sure you have seen my recent post(s) about frame issue in Ontario, Canada as well...