TwoBallScrewBall replied to 91e30181's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingI was not aware we even had that, I'll check for the setting and see if that fixes the issue for me as well.
TwoBallScrewBall started following Headlight adjustment for lifted trucks?, Stereo sound deterioration after 10+ mins high volume, GM Stepping Up on Brake Issue and and 2 others
TwoBallScrewBall replied to 91e30181's topic in 2014-2018 Silverado & Sierra TroubleshootingMy 2016 did this, but it was a lease and I didn't care. My 2018 does this also. Same thing, blast some music for long enough and the audio breaks up. I am absolutely certain it is an overheat condition with the audio amp. Where is the amp on the base model (non-bose) trucks? A small quiet fan positioned near it might help. I have the 8" Mylink but no bose. Same as the 2016, and same issue. My previous car it was under the passenger seat. If it's somewhere that is accessible and has room to mount a small computer fan I would be willing to give that a shot and report back.
We have a new 2018 (4 months old) with 4000 miles and my wife just got the "Service Brake Assist" and a hard, pulsating pedal every time she applied the brakes this morning. Turned the truck off then started back up and everything seemed fine. Do they think the 2018's are not affected? We tow a camper with this truck all the time, I don't need to be losing power brakes with ~6000lbs of trailer hooked up and my 2 kids in the back seat. Will be calling the dealer about this later today.
Old thread I know..... Can anyone please provide the part numbers for the plugs required here? Very interested in doing this to add a backup camera to my camper and just have it display on the main screen when the camper is hooked up. Thanks!!
TwoBallScrewBall replied to batman900's topic in 2014 - 2018 Chevy Silverado & GMC SierraMy 2016 (All star, had HIDs) never did this in the 3 years I owned it. My 2018, noticed it the very first night I drove it, and ever since. Never bothered me enough to do anything about it, but there is definitely something that causes it and it definitely does not happen in all trucks. If anyone figures it out, I'd be interested to hear a fix.
Popped the new CV axle in yesterday. Back on the road.
There were big blobs like you describe on the A-Arms, and on the inside of the wheel barrel. This leak was right near the spindle, maybe that's why most of my mess ended up on the wheel and A-Arms instead of the axle like yours. Some of those blobs on my wheel had 'ran' out the outside of the wheel and onto the face toward the tire, kinda like running paint. I guess from the centrifugal force of the spinning wheel.
Nice clean front wheel on my security camera the morning I dropped the truck off..... I should have taken a photo of the wheel before I cleaned it but I didn't, but there was black grease streaking out between the spokes. Had the truck backed in since we've had it home, we always back it in, but it was pulled in nose first earlier this week from when I had installed some amber marker lights in the grille (that's another thread). So I have some evidence that suggests the puncture and grease leak might have happened at the dealer..... what the hell.....
Can't catch a damn break here. Called all around for a replacement CV boot, nowhere has it aftermarket, GM boot is $88 for the boot, bands and grease. I already have the axle out so I said screw it and dropped the $95 with tax. Turns out the large band clamp does not use the usual ears, but some GM contraption that sits in a vice and compresses the entire solid ring onto the large end of the boot. Of course nobody has it locally. Additionally, there is no way the strut spacers caused this issue, it's a puncture. picture below. Anyway, after determining that this wasn't going back together today, I hit up Rockauto and got the entire damn replacement axle for $88 with tax and shipping, which is $7 less that I got hit for on just the damn boot from GM. Taking that back, prob get hit with a restocking fee. The other local dealer I called also said that GM has been swapping out the entire axle shaft under warranty in cases of boot tears. Which is why they don't have the clamp tool on hand, they have never had to use one. The more I think about this entire experience with this service department (purchasing dealer), the more aggravated I get. They didn't bother even checking where the grease was coming from, just said the boot must have split from the lift blocks. The boot is super soft, its a 2018 with 2500 miles on it, I don't think I could split it if I tried at this point. They also fast talked me into believing that this grease leak was somehow causing the vibration. I am really kind of wondering if they poked the damn boot and then just expected that I would pay for the axle repair out of pocket since they were blaming it on the spacers. That boot is always spinning, I would expect a tear in it if I hit anyting on the road. This is a puncture. The front wheel is also covered in grease, something I am 99.9% sure that was not there when I dropped the truck off or any time before, my wife or I would have noticed. it. The whole experience just leaves a bad feeling. New axle should be here mid week, hopefully done with this after that.
Fixed. Dealer did not fix it. Picked up the truck. Dealer had me under the truck and said the vibration was coming from the front end. Showed me that the driver side CV boot has a split/leak and it's flinging grease, and said that the increased angle with the front lift spacers is causing the vibration and the split boot. Could not argue with him there. Running 3" top-mount spacers. I had read about the stress on the ball joints when running 3" spacers, but I don't off road with it. So I took the risk. Never read anything about CV issues. So I told them I'd address the cracked boot and the axle if needed and pull the spacers, paid my unexpected $80 for the diagnostic (that sucked) and went on my way. Driving home, I get to thinking about the front axles spinning on the highway, and I look down and notice I'm in 4WD AUTO. I flip it back into 2WD and sure as shit, absolutely no more vibration. No shit, wasn't supposed to be in Auto all the time, especially at full throttle at 70mph. So, basically paid $80 to be told I split a CV boot that actually has nothing to do with the vibration I brought it in for. I'm easily at fault here, I left it in auto, I lifted the front end, etc, etc. I do have a bit of a bad taste though about dropping the unexpected $80 and nobody there noticing in 50 mile of test drives that it was in 4wd auto. Again, neither did I until I started thinking about the front of the truck as opposed to the rear, but I'm not a paid tech. Moral of the story, don't stay in 4wd auto.
I think we agree here, you can do a 6" level which would need to raise the rear. You can also just level, which would just raise the front or lower the rear. My point was more along the lines that a 'level' inherently raises the front in relation to the rear, which 'aims' the headlights higher. I drew a picture I'm also not into getting into dumb fights on the internet I just want folks who search these threads to have good info, which is ultimately what I think we all want.
Got a call from my service writer yesterday afternoon. They had called me on Wednesday morning to let me know that they they thought they might be feeling something, but were not sure because it had started snowing and they couldn't safely hammer the throttle at high speed. I told them to go ahead and keep the truck for a few more days since the weather forecast was good. He confirmed yesterday (Thursday) that they have 45 miles on the truck now and they do feel the vibration at around 70mph, which is a good thing. At least we're past the "can not replicate issue" stage now. He was consulting with his folks within the dealership because they felt that it might have something to do with the lift blocks I have in the rear end. I politely explained that those were the factory lift blocks that come in all those trucks, and he sounded surprised by that which mildly concerned me. I did let them know that I had 3" blocks installed for some time, but removed them and the truck's rear suspension is set up now as it was from the factory. Also let him know that I do have the 3" strut spacers in the front, we both agreed that should not be any concern. If that becomes an issue, I personally don't have a problem temporarily removing them, except for the $80 I'd have to drop on another alignment if I take them out. This was late yesterday afternoon. Waiting on additional updates today.
But you're right about that, I know mine are adjusted properly, and every once in a while, someone will blink me. I can almost always tell when it's going to happen, if you're cresting a hill or in any other situation where the lights are higher than usual in relation to oncoming traffic it's easy to see when the beams light up the face of the guy (or girl) coming at you from the other way.
That's actually exactly what it means, leveling implies raising the front (or lowering the rear) to change the truck from having a factory nose-dive stance to having a level stance. If you're raising the front and the back, it's not a level, it's a lift. Doing this inherently changes the angle of the headlamps from their factory nose-down angle to a level angle. It's like taking a flashlight that is pointing at someone's chest and raising the beam into their eyes. HIDs have a razor sharp cutoff, if your cutoff is near or above oncoming drivers eyes, they will 'see' the full intensity as if the high beams were on. There is no increased intensity when switching to high beams with HID, only the shutter that creates the low beam cutoff is retracted to allow the full beam to shine forward.
This is unequivocally incorrect. Light alignment is even more of a problem with a front level than it would be with a front/rear lift. With just a front level installed, you're lifting only the front of the truck higher, which not only raises the headlights but also causes them to be pointed at a higher angle 'up' than they were before. With a full lift, the lights are being raised, but the angle of the beam remains closer to where it was before. In either case, spend the 5 minutes and adjust them to where they are supposed to be.
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