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TwoBallScrewBall

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Everything posted by TwoBallScrewBall

  1. I do a ton of highway and am not interested in losing the AFM. I have pulled 28mpg average over 50 miles on the highway with AFM on, and it stays engaged at surprisingly high speeds (78-80 mph). Actually seems that sometimes it's in V4 more at 80 than it is at 65, maybe due to a little more torque available at that RPM in 6th. I did think about running a vacuum canister with two ports with check valves, one to the pump and one to the intake somewhere, so that I would get both pump and intake vacuum accumulated in the canister. Then a single outlet to the booster. But I don't want to drill holes in the intake while under warranty and I'm not sure if there's somewhere I could tap it without modifying it. Also reading about pump failures that take the brake booster down with it, or worse, part of me wants to just lose the noisy belt driven engine-oil-lubricated pump altogether. Me personally, what I will most likely do like I said is go with an electric vacuum pump and ditch the belt driven pump altogether if it acts up again. I need to search around to see if anyone makes a bypass pulley for the belt driven pump, or if there is a way to just remove the pump and re-route the belt if I do go with an electric pump. The whining noise creeping through the quiet campground is embarrassing, quite frankly.
  2. So took the truck back Tuesday. Dealer called a few hours later, said they don't hear any whining noise from the pump and can not replicate the problem. They said they will go ahead and reprogram the EBCM per the recall anyway. Service advisor called on speaker with the tech there and we talked through exactly what I was experiencing. I mentioned I definitely hear the whine in the mornings and at low speed, they asked if they could keep the truck overnight to see how it sounds in the morning. I said fine. They called back yesterday afternoon and said they don't hear any noise, the pump still tests fine, they have no indication as to why I get the message on the dash and the hard clicking brake pedal. They did perform the recall / update. I go to pick it up, start it up and she's whining away, right there at the dealer, so I go back in and just ask if someone can come out here and listen. Service advisor brings the tech out and I run the rpm in park to about 1000rpm and there is an unmistakable whine, again to me sounds like when a steering pump is going bad on an old car. But it's coming from the vacuum pump. Tech tells me and the service advisor "yeah my 2017 makes the same noise." So which one is it? It's normal, or you don't hear it? I told him my 2016 didn't do it, and this truck didn't do it when it was new. Tech also starts telling me how the pump is only there to help out when there is not enough engine vacuum present. I say no, the pump is the only source of vacuum. He argues with me. I tell him there is no vacuum line from the booster to the intake, he says yes there is. I say to him "With all due respect, if you want to show me where that is, I have no problem learning something new" so I pop the hood and he says "Oh, yeah, there is none". Why do I know more about this truck than the service tech??? He also seemed to have no idea how the ABS system kicks in to assist in braking, and told me the ABS only works if the wheels slip, and if the ABS was kicking in the truck would come to an immediate stop. And that the ABS system has nothing to with any of this. Sensing I would not be getting through to him, I thanked him for looking at the truck and we went on our way. If it acts up again I'll be doing the electric pump and be done with this.
  3. you're not in the dark, or missing anything, it's a software patch to mask the issue, plain and simple, we all know it. EDIT - only now, as a bonus, we will get the ABS assisting the system more, along with the same reduced braking effectiveness, just wont get that annoying message on the dash. The ABS system already assists when this happens, and it does very little to actually help you stop. When I almost blew that stop sign into cross traffic, the ABS was click-clacking away the entire time along with the message on the dash.
  4. Well I can't argue with you about the squeaks, the rattles, the plastic, or almost anything else you said. But I love the car, and she runs great. It was fast for it's time. I've got a 2017 2SS if I want to go fast And the 700R4 in the 1989, well yeah I've had that out 4 or 5 times before I finally gave up and let a hot rod shop rebuild it. But the little 305, I get an average 20mpg overall, and I can get 25 if it's all highway. Sounds great and is 'quick' enough to be fun. She's a cruiser. Regarding the tire burning.....
  5. My 30 year old Tuned Port Injection 305 in my old Camaro is still going strong. We all agree on one thing here, they don't make them like they used to.
  6. Unfortunately not. The brakes pull no vacuum from the engine. All vacuum is from the pump, regardless of what mode you're in. There is no vacuum line that goes from booster to intake. Just to the belt driven pump.
  7. You sure type a lot for someone who doesn't care There is finally a NHTSA recall of over 3 million trucks for this issue, but you still want to say there's nothing wrong with the pump??? Who the hell is drinking Kool Aid here??
  8. Same here. My guess is that some of the 2018's got the new pump. This thread has great pics of the old and new pumps, there are external visual differences, so using these pics you should be able to look under the hood and check which one you have. I will be doing the same later today and will post back just for giggles.
  9. Not sure what opinions I offered up. If you would like to point that out to me, I'm open to hearing it. I have stated nothing but facts in any of my posts. The vacuum pump design is garbage. Period. There, that's an opinion for you.
  10. We have also had the issue since about 10,000 miles, that's when we first saw this warning on the dash. It would happen on startups, and we would just shut the truck down and restart it, which always cleared the problem. It was not until I was almost unable to make a stop pulling my boat at a crossroad with a 50mph highway a couple weeks ago that we made the appt to get it looked at, and I started digging further.
  11. My 2018 5.3 Crew has 15,000 miles and is on it's third oil change, changed at or before oil life monitor on the dash (1,000 miles to clear breakin crap, ~7500 miles and 14,900 miles) and I have the issue. Compounding this is that my truck is not listed in the recall, so I expect a fight to get anything worthwhile accomplished. Blaming this on lack of maintenance is total nonsense.
  12. No, The vacuum pump being defective coupled with the low RPM at idle causes this to happen at idle. The reason we even have the vacuum pump, and not just a port on the intake for the booster, is because overall, the engine vacuum in V4 mode is not always sufficient to maintain braking assist. Sadly, the vacuum pumps are no better. I am considering the electric corvette pump myself.
  13. The AFM when engaged reduces the vacuum produced to the point where the power brakes can be ineffective. That is the reason.
  14. This entire recall is BS anyway. They know the pumps are failing / deteriorating due to sludge buildup, so the fix for that is to just patch the software to run them harder? What the hell is that? How does something like that get approved by the NHTSA? What happens when the pumps get to the point of complete failure? Pathetic.
  15. You've never had the issue. Talk to us when your brakes go out in a situation like my previous reply. Consider yourself lucky.
  16. I'm not listed in the recall, but my 2018 has had "Service Brake Assist" accompanied by a hard pulsing pedal and reduced braking multiple times. Most recently, 2 weeks ago, I was coming down a steep incline with a 3500lb boat trailer that does not have trailer brakes, and I got this message and my brakes went useless. I had to STAND on the pedal to stop before the crossroad I was approaching. It was terrifying. We took the truck to the dealer yesterday, and after 2 hours they sent my wife home saying they would not troubleshoot the issue since I had some running lights tapped into the parking light circuits in the fuse box and 4-pin trailer plug. Upon calling them back, they spent all that time troubleshooting the TRAILER BRAKE CONTROLLER and lights, not the onboard brakes. Going back Tuesday, hopefully we don't die in a crash before then. It was not a pleasant conversation with the service advisor. This is nuts. Give me my 2016 back.
  17. We have a new 2018 (4 months old) with 4000 miles and my wife just got the "Service Brake Assist" and a hard, pulsating pedal every time she applied the brakes this morning. Turned the truck off then started back up and everything seemed fine. Do they think the 2018's are not affected? We tow a camper with this truck all the time, I don't need to be losing power brakes with ~6000lbs of trailer hooked up and my 2 kids in the back seat. Will be calling the dealer about this later today.
  18. Popped the new CV axle in yesterday. Back on the road.
  19. There were big blobs like you describe on the A-Arms, and on the inside of the wheel barrel. This leak was right near the spindle, maybe that's why most of my mess ended up on the wheel and A-Arms instead of the axle like yours. Some of those blobs on my wheel had 'ran' out the outside of the wheel and onto the face toward the tire, kinda like running paint. I guess from the centrifugal force of the spinning wheel.
  20. Nice clean front wheel on my security camera the morning I dropped the truck off..... I should have taken a photo of the wheel before I cleaned it but I didn't, but there was black grease streaking out between the spokes. Had the truck backed in since we've had it home, we always back it in, but it was pulled in nose first earlier this week from when I had installed some amber marker lights in the grille (that's another thread). So I have some evidence that suggests the puncture and grease leak might have happened at the dealer..... what the hell.....
  21. Can't catch a damn break here. Called all around for a replacement CV boot, nowhere has it aftermarket, GM boot is $88 for the boot, bands and grease. I already have the axle out so I said screw it and dropped the $95 with tax. Turns out the large band clamp does not use the usual ears, but some GM contraption that sits in a vice and compresses the entire solid ring onto the large end of the boot. Of course nobody has it locally. Additionally, there is no way the strut spacers caused this issue, it's a puncture. picture below. Anyway, after determining that this wasn't going back together today, I hit up Rockauto and got the entire damn replacement axle for $88 with tax and shipping, which is $7 less that I got hit for on just the damn boot from GM. Taking that back, prob get hit with a restocking fee. The other local dealer I called also said that GM has been swapping out the entire axle shaft under warranty in cases of boot tears. Which is why they don't have the clamp tool on hand, they have never had to use one. The more I think about this entire experience with this service department (purchasing dealer), the more aggravated I get. They didn't bother even checking where the grease was coming from, just said the boot must have split from the lift blocks. The boot is super soft, its a 2018 with 2500 miles on it, I don't think I could split it if I tried at this point. They also fast talked me into believing that this grease leak was somehow causing the vibration. I am really kind of wondering if they poked the damn boot and then just expected that I would pay for the axle repair out of pocket since they were blaming it on the spacers. That boot is always spinning, I would expect a tear in it if I hit anyting on the road. This is a puncture. The front wheel is also covered in grease, something I am 99.9% sure that was not there when I dropped the truck off or any time before, my wife or I would have noticed. it. The whole experience just leaves a bad feeling. New axle should be here mid week, hopefully done with this after that.
  22. Fixed. Dealer did not fix it. Picked up the truck. Dealer had me under the truck and said the vibration was coming from the front end. Showed me that the driver side CV boot has a split/leak and it's flinging grease, and said that the increased angle with the front lift spacers is causing the vibration and the split boot. Could not argue with him there. Running 3" top-mount spacers. I had read about the stress on the ball joints when running 3" spacers, but I don't off road with it. So I took the risk. Never read anything about CV issues. So I told them I'd address the cracked boot and the axle if needed and pull the spacers, paid my unexpected $80 for the diagnostic (that sucked) and went on my way. Driving home, I get to thinking about the front axles spinning on the highway, and I look down and notice I'm in 4WD AUTO. I flip it back into 2WD and sure as shit, absolutely no more vibration. No shit, wasn't supposed to be in Auto all the time, especially at full throttle at 70mph. So, basically paid $80 to be told I split a CV boot that actually has nothing to do with the vibration I brought it in for. I'm easily at fault here, I left it in auto, I lifted the front end, etc, etc. I do have a bit of a bad taste though about dropping the unexpected $80 and nobody there noticing in 50 mile of test drives that it was in 4wd auto. Again, neither did I until I started thinking about the front of the truck as opposed to the rear, but I'm not a paid tech. Moral of the story, don't stay in 4wd auto.
  23. Got a call from my service writer yesterday afternoon. They had called me on Wednesday morning to let me know that they they thought they might be feeling something, but were not sure because it had started snowing and they couldn't safely hammer the throttle at high speed. I told them to go ahead and keep the truck for a few more days since the weather forecast was good. He confirmed yesterday (Thursday) that they have 45 miles on the truck now and they do feel the vibration at around 70mph, which is a good thing. At least we're past the "can not replicate issue" stage now. He was consulting with his folks within the dealership because they felt that it might have something to do with the lift blocks I have in the rear end. I politely explained that those were the factory lift blocks that come in all those trucks, and he sounded surprised by that which mildly concerned me. I did let them know that I had 3" blocks installed for some time, but removed them and the truck's rear suspension is set up now as it was from the factory. Also let him know that I do have the 3" strut spacers in the front, we both agreed that should not be any concern. If that becomes an issue, I personally don't have a problem temporarily removing them, except for the $80 I'd have to drop on another alignment if I take them out. This was late yesterday afternoon. Waiting on additional updates today.
  24. Dropped it at the dealer last night. Will update on whatever they find.
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