SnakNest

No, RAP does not shut the console light off. It stays on even after the ignition is off and the driver's door is opened. Eventually it goes out - I believe on the battery protection time-out, the same way as if you left other lights on (like if you left headlights or interior lights on by accident). I'm wondering if maybe this is a glitch from one of the recent software updates. Like I said, it's really easy to see from outside the truck when it's dark (the light shines through the console opening where the wireless charging pad is and illuminates the shifter / cupholder area), and I have a hard time believing that I never noticed this until a few weeks ago.

Yeah, I'm surprised it took me like 4 months to notice it, but now I can't unsee it every time I'm inside or outside my truck when it's dark. Anyway, thanks again for your replies!

Here are photos of the console from the outside and with the lid open, showing where the light is. As a followup, I stopped at the dealership this morning and asked the service advisor about this. He didn't know, but went to talk to one of the techs; he supposedly talked to one of the truck techs. The advisor told me that he started to ask the tech about it, and as soon as he mentioned the light in the storage compartment, the tech cut him off and completed his sentence, assuming that I was asking about the light staying on all the time. The tech claims that's the way they all are, and that the light just stays on all the time until the timeout after the truck is shut off. Seems ridiculous that they would engineer the thing without a switch for the light, but that's the answer I got from the dealership, for what it's worth.

Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the console/lid from the outside right now, and won't be back to my truck until the end of the week as I'm working out of town. I attached two photos of the wiring on the inside of the console that I took when I had it apart over the weekend. One photo has the light circled in red. You may not be able to see clearly from the photos, but the wiring harness that comes back there terminates at only the locations that I mentioned in my previous post, then runs down to the floor / bottom of the console. There's no wiring that goes anywhere to the lid or hinges. I'll post pictures of the console at the end of the week when I get back. In the meantime, I appreciate you taking the time to try and help!

I took the back of my console apart to where I can see the entire lid hinge mechanism and wiring for the light, rear USB ports, etc. I don't see any kind of switch or place where the lid hinge mechanism would contact a switch, and no wiring except the terminations to the light, rear USB ports, and keyless entry antenna. There is no wiring going into the console lid, either. If there's a switch, it would have to be at the front of the console where the lid latch is, and would have to be actuated by the latch points of the lid. I see no sign of anything in the holes in the console where the lid latches. Any other thoughts? I guess I might have to call the dealership. I'm starting to wonder if this light is working as designed and/or has been on the entire time I've owned the truck, and maybe I just never noticed it until recently.

Thanks, Bikerjon. That answers my question as to whether there's a switch. I'll probably take it apart myself to see what the issue is, and if it requires any parts, I'll likely just schedule it for a warranty repair so I don't have to pay for them.

I have a 2023 Silverado RST with the center console (bucket seats). I noticed yesterday that the light inside the console storage compartment stays on all the time, even with the truck parked and turned off in the daytime. I've owned the truck since the end of January and have never noticed this before, and I'm assuming it's not normal behavior. Can anyone else verify that the light is not on all the time in their truck (I'm assuming there's a switch in the lid hinge mechanism), and if it is controlled by a switch in the lid, does anyone know how to disassemble the console to access the switch? I'd rather not have to take my truck to the dealership to deal with this if it's something I can easily check myself. If it needs a new switch, I'll take it in for a warranty claim, but if something just came loose or is out of adjustment, I'd just as soon fix it myself.

I wanted to post an update in the event that anyone else comes across this thread in the future with the same issue as me. I've now put over 600 miles on my truck since I replaced the HPFP, and the engine oil level hasn't moved at all on the dipstick since then. So I'd definitely call that a successful fix in this case. Thanks again to all who offered input with this issue!

I got the pump changed. Delphi pump, high pressure pipe, and Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket set, all from NAPA - about $400 plus tax altogether. Took me about 3.5 hours from start to finish, but mostly because I was being extra careful to not break any weatherpack plugs or wire mounting clips, and I also spent a good bit of time making sure I found TDC on #1 cylinder before removing / installing the pump. I could likely cut it down to 2 hours or less if I had to do it again. The wire loom retainers attached to the back of the intake cover are a motherf***** to get out, and closer to impossible to get back in; if I had it to do over again, I would consider leaving the cover attached to the wire loom retainers, but I don't know if that would allow access to the pump itself. I only got 1/4 reconnected (the one furthest on the passenger side) when putting the intake back in, because I was mostly concerned with making sure I didn't knock anything into the engine intake or get any foreign material on the new manifold gaskets. If I ever have the occasion to take it back off (hopefully not), I'll try to get the other retainers back in the cover. I think the only practical way to do it is to attach all of the retainers to the cover prior to putting the manifold in, due to the amount of twisting and turning you have to do to the cover. One more note to anyone who does this: if you do remove the intake manifold cover, MAKE SURE YOU PUT IT BACK IN PLACE EITHER BEFORE OR WITH THE INTAKE MANIFOLD, AND DON'T PUT THE MANIFOLD BACK ON FIRST. You can't get the cover off or on while the intake manifold is in place. Ask me how I know . Also, I referenced the following videos on YouTube to help me: https://youtu.be/JxYxj6CRuls https://youtu.be/XNh_A43V268 I drained a few quarts of oil out of the crankcase and filled it back in the crosshatched range on the dipstick so that I can monitor the oil level over the next few days / weeks and see if my problem is solved. I'll post back later once I know for sure. Thanks to all who responded for your opinions and advice!

Thanks to newdude for the part #s! I always prefer to do my own repairs as well, as long as it's something I can do without special tools (that I can't fake or make with relative ease) or diagnostics equipment. I actually enjoy working on vehicles, but I enjoy knowing that things are fixed correctly even more. I don't have time to type (and nobody else wants to take the time to read) the horror stories I've experienced having my vehicles serviced at dealerships. It's been almost exclusively for warranty work. But those stories definitely weigh into my decision to do my own work, too.

I haven't looked anywhere else yet, but the local NAPA was listing the pump at $350-$450 depending on the model, $45 for the high pressure pipe, and $25 for the intake manifold gasket set. I believe that's all I would need (?). I'll have to do some more research online to see if I can come up with better prices.

Well, within a few minutes of my last reply the dealer called. I was told that the tech said my fuel pressure was checked and is running high, so they feel that the HPFP is the cause of the issue and recommend replacement. I'm not sure how exactly that explanation makes sense, but I guess I'll go with it. They're saying $600-$700 in parts, likely upwards of $900-$1000 including labor. I had already checked into parts elsewhere to do the job, and $600 is about what I had come up with on my own. So now I just have to decide whether I want to make this a weekend project for myself, or have the dealer fix it.

Thanks. I dropped my truck off this morning with specific instructions for them to call me with a diagnosis or prior to starting any work that would incur costs beyond diagnostics, and I still haven't heard anything yet. Only a few hours left before the service department closes, so I should be hearing something soon unless they just forgot to look at my truck

I have a 2017 Silverado with the 5.3 EcoTec, approximately 81,500 miles. I'll be dropping it off at the dealership soon for diagnostics (which I don't expect much of a result from), but wanted to get some opinions from other owners as well. The truck has never displayed any CEL codes, no starting / drivability issues or anything of the sort. But I noticed when checking my oil the last few weeks before my most recent oil change that the level on the dipstick appeared to be going up. Hard to quantify how much as it's generally a little above full after adding 8 quarts at the oil change. No milky appearance to the oil and no coolant loss, and I thought the oil looked thin and had a gasoline smell when I changed it a week or two ago. Plus my gas mileage seems to be a little worse than it normally is for this time of year. So based that layman's diagnosis and lack of an oil sample analysis, I'm pretty sure I've got gasoline getting into the crankcase. I purposely added less oil at this last oil change to make sure that the level was in the cross-hatch section of the dipstick (even after sitting for an entire day), roughly 1/4" to 3/8" below the full mark. After putting only a few hundred miles on, the oil level is already back up around 1/4" above full. Assuming I'm right about there being gas in the oil, I'm guessing it's either the HPFP or injector(s) to blame; most likely the HPFP since I'm not having any issues with the engine starting or running rough, and it's not throwing any codes. Is my line of thinking correct? Has anyone else had a similar experience, and if so, how did you diagnose and/or solve the problem? I expect the dealership to tell me nothing more initially than they want to pull a sample to verify that I have fuel in the oil (and most likely to first charge me to change the oil themselves and make me drive it for a period of time before I schedule another service visit to have a sample taken). Aside from that, my bigger problem is that I just don't have much faith that they're going to be able to diagnose the issue if/when they DO verify fuel in the oil, since it's not throwing codes or having drivability issues otherwise. I have never had any luck taking things in to a dealership when there's not a CEL / code for them to diagnose. If they can't tell me with any degree of certainty, I'd rather throw parts at the problem myself than pay the dealership to do it since I'm out of warranty. Hopefully this forum can point me in the right direction if it comes to that.