TheCaddyMan04

I know it seems excessive to change it so frequently, but I try to take care of my stuff the best I can. A lot of people tell me that I could do the oil every 5-6k, but something about that doesn't seem right to me. call me crazy, but I make it a point to flush the coolant, brake fluid, and change the oil in the diffs, transfer case and transmission every two years at the very least. especially on my 05 EXT and 04 ESV, I spent a lot of money to have those 4l60e's rebuilt, I'm not gonna let something stupid like a missed service interval take them off the road again.

I watched a video the other day of someone who had cut one of the 2009 AFM lifters apart, and he was explaining how it works. Part of a video of unsticking the lifters. To me that seems like a very temporary solution to that problem. Also, if you say the problem isn't as common as I think it is, then why should I replace the cam and lifters with non AFM ones if I could realistically just replace the AFM ones with the latest design? I know I'm going to just end up finding another L86 to make my swap work, I haven't decided what method I want to go down about procuring one yet, but I'll figure that out when all the fab work is done, that's a down the road issue I guess. But now I'm thinking about my daily, I already went through the 8 speed trauma and got the updated valve body and full transmission flush service done. I'm now approaching 82k miles, and I'm starting to get lifter anxiety. I change my oil on my own, every 3k miles with royal purple and an AC Delco filter. Since mine is one of the earlier engines, should I have any real concerns?

So why don't any aftermarket companies make a better quality product?

do you know why the L83/L86 have the lifter issues? or is it different from case to case? like why do they do what they do and what causes the scoring? is there any way to prevent that, or is it just inevitable? is it oil sludging, causing the lifter to get stuck? and if so, could a shorter oil change interval prevent failure? just questions I have floating around my head. This is unrelated, I'm just thinking about my daily and what happens when the lifters in that go out. And whats with the L84/L87 and bending pushrods? I understand it happens a lot, but how does it manage to bend a pushrod?

is the non AFM Camshaft that different that it needs to be changed? I'm just curious why the camshaft as to be changed too. This is only my third engine rebuild, and would be my first one making serious modifications. I just like collecting as much information as I can get. I don't want to change something just because I was told to, I want to understand why it must be changed. Maybe if I saw the replacement lifters I would understand? I've seen so many sets of collapsed lifters through my friend in the Caddy dealer, I'd be able recognize them anywhere. I'm just curious what's so different between the two that the cam needs to be swapped, or is it that there are additional oil passages or sprockets or something that runs the AFM system? I'm just curious at this point.

Will deleting the system altogether cause a CEL? or is there associated tuning that as to go with it? Are there any kits to do this? And is the non-AFM cam that much different than the AFM cam? I'm not looking for an aggressive engine, just more longevity. I live in an emissions state. All they really do is plug in a scanner, but I still need to get inspection on the car every two years. At least until my chassis becomes 25 years old.

So my donor vehicle was involved in a front end collision. as a result of the collision, the block was cracked, like split. I sold it to a scrapper in Paterson for it's weight in aluminum. At the time that's all it was to me, since I still have the LQ9. I didn't stop to think of it as a core or for the heads or anything like that, didn't think any of that was really worth the effort. If I wanted to continue with an L86, I would have to get a used LKQ engine or maybe a crate motor. I think I remember hearing somewhere that the bolt pattern for the LS and LT heads are the same. If this is true, couldn't I reuse my ironblock and put a set of L86 heads on it? or this is overambitious? Just out of curiosity, does anyone make a better version of the AFM lifters? I've heard from dealer techs that the lifters themselves are the parts that fail and take out the camshaft with them. Is there any way to prevent that, or I would have to delete it all together to make this engine more reliable? The end goal here is reliability, I don't want to deal with collapsing lifters and spun rod bearings or melting pistons. But if I can gain a couple extra MPGs by just making the AFM system more reliable, I certainly wouldn't mind. same reasoning behind trying to retain the 10spd (besides already having it. Also, why did your rod bearings fail? wrong tolerance, poor quality, or operator error? I don't mean this as a dig at anyone, it's just if I take apart an engine, I want to make absolute sure that I won't ever have to take it apart again. I just don't want to go through all of that effort just to pull it again.

end goal is to supercharge this motor, so intake doesn't really matter, was thinking about porting the heads at some point, but not until way into the future. reason I ask about L96 is because it's similar to the older style LS motors as opposed to the LT motors. but I'm trying to find something that will both run the motor and be factory to a 2015-2020 K2xx truck. since I won't be able to get any kind of communication out of the BCM without an ECU, also need it to provide the low speed can signal for the gauge cluster readouts. ideally I'd like to be able to use the 10speed that I already have, but i guess that requires a bit of hacking and treading new waters. So i'd be forced to use a 6l90? compared to a 4l65e, that doesn't sound so bad, it's just that I wouldn't have as many forward gears as I possibly could have. but i loose some of the tunability.

I figured there's a lot of wiring differences, and the reluctor wheels, but why would I need a different intake manifold/heads? is it because i wouldn't be able to use the L96 throttle body on the LQ9 intake? if that's the only reason, couldn't I just make an adapter plate? especially since I plan to put a Magnuson kit on this motor.

IMG_6917.HEIC

I don't want to burst your bubble, but wiring is kind of my thing. I've wired so much together, so much that shouldn't talk, that does talk. I don't mean to say you're wrong, but I'm not afraid of repinning a few 72 pin connectors and making a custom wiring harness. I do that on the daily. if i'm limited to a 6l90, that's already more forward gears than I have currently, it's no ten speed, but it's a step in the right direction, the good thing about eBay is that people sell ECUs and TCUs for way too cheap all day everyday, so I will definitely be experimenting to see if they talk and if so what errors they report back and if it is possible or not, either way, what's the loss, a couple if weeks worth of gas money? it's not so much that i'd lose sleep over. IMG_5123.HEIC

Can I run an LQ9 off of an L96 ecu? and pair that with a 10L80? I understand that the L96 has VVT, but I've heard of people tuning out that kind of stuff, is it really possible? maybe 10 speed is ambitious, would I have to use a 6l80, or 8l80 or something like that? really I just don't want to deal with the L86 6.2L and it's various lifter issues. I've never heard anything good about the AFM system, always been really negative. Just don't want to deal with rebuilding an engine, because then it becomes a slippery slope of buying parts. I have an ecu and wiring harness from a 2017 silverado 2500 with the 6.0 L96, but not the engine, what are my options? I believe that I'll have to change some connectors to get the 10L80 TCU to interface with the transmission itself. I'm not doing an engine swap, I'm just attempting an trans swap + interior swap. so I would be retaining almost all the modules from my donor escalade. any advice or tips is appreciated

I remember from my dads GMT 800 and the GMT 900 Tahoes that we've had, that the rear door windows don't go down all the way, thanks to the cutout in the door for the rear wheels. on the 2015-2020 models, do they roll all the way down? or they still just go half way. This sounds silly, but this is actually a selling point for me, only reason I buy Suburbans/Avalanches over the Tahoe based trucks is the rear door window thing. granted they also have the disadvantage of being short and not able to carry as much and trunk space gets entirely used up whenever the third row is up. which I find kinda pointless, but these things are everywhere, so they do something right clearly. Just thought it was weird that I couldn't find an answer for this one.

So what you mean to tell me is that the DI injectors work differently than port fuel injectors? the solenoids operate differently? I'm guessing the system is looking for the pressure with the sensor, otherwise ecu would cut fuel supply to the engine? could there be any way to trick the ecu to think the sensor is working as intended? a resistor perhaps? I'm fishing for an answer that I want because I can't accept the answer that is. I guess I'll just have to get another L86 to make this thing work. that or maybe just use the original ECU and have the L86 ECU sitting so that I can use the car. I could send the sensor signals to both ECUs so that I get display on the cluster, I'm pretty certain tach is measured in different ways, so I would probably have to use an arduino with a can shield in order to translate the LQ9 tach signal to the signal for the L86 ECU. i imagine the transmission computer would be happy to see tach signal. I could wire the LQ9 ECU's CEL line to the cluster, at least they didn't change that, then it's just a matter of "fixing" as many sensors and actuators as I can to solve the barrage of DTCs that the L86 ECU will have so I can have remote start be happy and so that I can pass inspection. for inspection i could use two OBDII ports, one for the ECU that runs the LQ9, and another that would go through the serial data gateway module for the L86 systems. maybe I'm thinking too deeply into this, I'm trying to gain full factory like functionality. maybe I should just simplify things and find another L86 somewhere.

also, my apologies, its not a Gen4 L92, it is a Gen5 L86 EcoTec3. I'm sure the two are different, but as far as I know (not much) there's not much difference