Jayselectricco

That would make sense, the range was causing the converter to not lock up and that's what burnt my torque converter up. The new would have been next if I hadn't of pulled it.

That's a really good question. I am not really sure what the rpm difference was, but I know it was driving differently. I actually liked the way the transmission shifted better with the range plugged in. I do remember it being below 2k in high gear running 65-70 about the same as it is now, but it was definitely shifting different.

Do you have a 5.3 or 4.3? I have searched and searched for what exactly the AFM disabler does to keep it out of v4 mode, and what several people have told me is that it tricks your computer into sensing a heavy load to trigger the v4 off. If that is what's happening then there is no way the torque converter is not behaving differently. It may be that it effects the 4.3 differently than the 5.3, or may be something in the new firmware that doesn't agree with the 4.3. When my TQ went out I did the thermal bypass and added 2 transmission coolers, along with the new TQ but my temps still went very high. I thought I would just pull the range out and try it, and my temps dropped tremendously. I pulled a big load over an hour mostly uphill and my trans temps never got over 169. However with the range in the same trip unloaded id be going past 240. Very Crazy! I have a friend that has a Range on his 5.3 and its been on for years just like you with no problems.

Hello, To answer your question ... yes and no. First of all the thermostat was definitely bad, it goes to 210 and stays there, before the oil pressure would never drop under 40 because it was never getting to a "hot idle." The P06DD came and went, and most of the time would come back when it was nearing an oil change. I thought this had something to do with old oil causing it however I discovered that it was something different. My torque converter went out and I was inspecting the transmission cooler lines and seen a leak, however it was not transmission fluid leaking it was oil. I traced the source of the oil leak back and it is actually leaking around the 2 stage oil pump wiring harness and running down. So I thought Ok so the oil is shorting out the wires in the plug causing the P06DD, however cleaning it had no effect on it. What did have an effect is putting the oil back in that it had leaked out. As long as I keep the oil level up P06DD stays gone even if the oil gets past 5k miles (I try to change it every 3-4k miles) still is gone. I can't say for sure that the oil in the connector is not still causing it, or that may be on the way. Just seems as tho I will loose about a quart every 2500 miles or so and that is what is triggering the code. Its kind of hard to read that dipstick accurately anyway. The real fix would be to change out that wiring harness and put new seals but you have to drop the oil pan to get to it, so might as well change out the oil pump and all when I break down and do it. For now I seem to be keeping the check engine light at bay by keeping the oil level right. Oh also, I did get one of those Range AFM disablers and that stops that code from ever coming on, however that thing will never go back in my truck because it caused my transmission temps to go 240-250 under normal driving, and I could pull it out and run 130-160. Worst purchase I ever made getting that RANGE, it cost me a torque converter.

Your welcome! If it has a pending code, or check engine light on it won't go to V4. If you scroll through the dash info thing at any of the screens that show MPG it will show you when it changes. The V6 or V8 in the corner will turn green and show V4.

I am also in NC however the county I am in doesn't require emissions testing. Maybe yours will be that way soon.

Yes I love it, it works for the 4.3 as well. Having a 6 cyl cut back to 4 is crazy in my opinion, it doesn't seem to effect my mpg but makes it drive so much better when it stays in 6. I also think it will help with preventing the lifter failure as well.

I want to thank you for your post, because I took your advice and didn't drive it any more. I pulled the transmission myself and replaced the torque converter, replaced fluid and filter again, flushed out cooler lines, and now my truck is running better than it has in a long time. It shifts perfect, my transmission temp runs 130-170, and my fluid is staying red like its meant to.

Ok Thanks, so the 4.3 does have a different torque converter than the 5.3? Its a 6l80E transmission just like the 5.3 has only difference is the torque converter?

What was the fix for this? Was it the torque converter?

I was reading in another post of yours that the 4.3 V6 has a different torque converter? Do you think by the looks of the pictures of the pan that in fact my torque converter with the 4.3 V6 is in fact failing? and if so what torque converter would you recommend replacing it with, or just replacing the whole transmission ? thanks

Thanks that makes total sense! I think I will just take out the transmission and get it rebuilt and I heard that you can get a ZL1 torque converter, that it is more reliable?

So my radiator transmission cooler was apparently clogged because there was very little difference in temp between my trans coolant lines. I bypassed the radiator and installed a transmission cooler and changed our 6 quarts of the burnt fluid. I drove it for 30 min and the temperature stayed around 180, however got up to 220 before I got home. I thought the fluid was just burnt but it has a grey color to it... Could this be clutch material or metal or something? Thanks

Yep sounds like that's what I am going to have to break down and do, take it to a good transmission shop. Thanks !

So I got everything back together and installed the new surecool bypass. After getting my transmission fluid up to the proper level it seemed to be shifting great. I put it in manual mode and when I shifted between M5 and M6 you could tell it changed gears. The temperature however kept climbing up into the 240s and then when in high gear seemed like it changed gears again and rpms dropped lower. Almost like the torque converter was not switching between modes the whole time and finally did? I also noticed that when I put it in gear or in reverse the lights dim a little and bogs the truck down some and vibrates some. What is really crazy though, is when I was going up a hill, it shifted into high gear instead of downshifting. Also when I was letting the truck idle in the driveway, I seen a message that popped up that said engine oil level low, add oil... checked the oil and it was fine...Almost seems like I have some kind of computer/electrical issue here. I was reading that the torque converter clutch solenoid valve can cause symptoms similar to this. Do you guys think it would be worth my time trying that, since there was no metal in the pan? Or can the torque converter still be bad even if there is no metal shavings on the magnet? What are your thoughts on this? Thanks for all the help!