MrLeadFoot

I was thinking the same thing, but then realized one of the issues is that we NEED higher viscosity for better protection against possibly too much friction, as well as reducing thermals, if only slightly in that regard. This is why GM is switching us to 40 weight oil, so the sooner the better.

I know, there has been so much in the media about this, but I don't recall ever seeing something from GM itself about an extended warranty, so I am going to remain doubtful about that part. By me staying doubtful, if they do end up doing an extended warranty, I will end up feeling better than if I expect one but they don't provide it. Also, all the stuff in the media word it as GM "offering" not "providing" the extended warranty. Two completely different meanings!

I don't see in the bulletin where it says this part.

OK,now they are making a LITTLE more sense using the Pico, instead of just looking to see if something already spun via the p0016.

I was thinking the same thing til I read brianf60's story. I bought my truck to tow my bass boat. I know there are many things that can cause a breakdown, but imagine what happens if you suddenly throw a rod while towing on a winding two-lane highway somewhere. GM probably hopes I perish in the subsequent accident so they don't have to deal with the ramifications of that engine failure.

OMG, I wouldn't even consider another GM had that happened to me. Especially since they said they'd reimburse you. So sorry to hear of your experience! Now I'm sorry I sold my 2000 Suburban. I had 235k on it, and actually considered redoing everything including the entire powertrain and interior. It would have been much cheaper than buying my new truck, but I figured things MUST be much better made nowadays. Now, I'm kind of kicking myself in the a$$.

Sh|t, so sorry to hear this. Maybe the rest of us shouldn't be wishing they would replace our engines. But, like I said before, the dealer network is not equipped to handle replacing all these engines. Just look how many "come backs" they're doing to get yours right! Again, so sorry for your troubles.

I know, this bother me, too. I, too, have low miles. Not as low as you, but somewhere around 24,000. I was initially thinking that, if there was a tolerance issue, it would have reared its ugly head pretty quickly, but I guess this spec is off by so little, it takes quite a while for something to wear abnormally. Obviously, this took 28,000 vehicles of which some had many tens of thousands of miles on them, so even if you pass the recall "inspection" doesn't mean that something won't happen down the road, so you always have to worry. I think the only way those of us who have the date range engines will ever feel comfortable again is if our motors get swapped. I'm sure the undue stress of worrying about this can be converted to a dollar value by a law professional, but this would not be worth pursuing by such a person unless it's a class action, which would make it worth their while but, unfortunately, but not the owners'. That said, I can see how an argument can be made that the undue stress exacerbates other existing issues. Let's just hope that, in the end, GM decides to do the right thing here, and replace all the engines. If they do decide to do this, please look for the guy with the blue face, because I'll be holding my breath.

I would go on that trip. Perfect opprtunity to give your motor a chance to blow up. I mean, when else would you have that opportunity? And, if it does blow up, they have to give you a loaner of some sort. It says so right in the bulletin. And, you can be the guinea pig for the rest of us to see how GM handles someone breaking down 4 states away when you drive that loaner home. Do they ship your fixed truck back to you and pick up the loaner for the return shipping? On the other hand, if it doesn't blow up, maybe you have one that's fine. The only problem I can see in that scenario is your trip will rack up some miles, so you have to do an oil change sooner, but what happens if there's no 0w40 available? Do they expect you to keep running on the old oil?

Thanks for doing that. That said, Holy Crap, I never thought of all this, and I was wondering what we would for subsequent oil changes if our motors don't get replaced. Don't tell me we'd be forced to use dealerships for oil changes, because that would be llegal. What a nightmare this has become. I don;t know whether I hope my motor blows up or mine ends up being unaffected, but I have a suspcion that every single 6.2 in the specified date range IS indeed affected, and it's just a matter of when will it sieze.

Whatever link you posted doesn't work for me. Any way you can post it differently?

Figures, right after I decide NOT to get a magnetic plug for my recent oil change, my motor gets recalled for a potentially disastrous short block. Would be nice to have a magnetic plug now, if only to monitor if any metal is getting shaved off of some bearings or journals.

Well, then maybe the LXP is a Bakflip, but not an MX4... maybe the prior Bakflip model before they came out with the triple-flange seal and the corner pieces in front.

That's good to hear. Hope everything is good when you pick it up this week (I assume) .

I understand why you asked for wires. To me, a "mis-fire" is spark-related, but apparently these days that term can encompass fuel-related faults, too. In either case, I'm shocked to hear that they let you drive it home when it was misfiring/stuttering/hesitating. There is no excuse for that. Sounds like they didn't test drive it themselves for very long after putting it all back together before calling you. So sorry to hear of your problems. On another note, did you notice any new rattles after everything was put back together?

If they truly believed it was purely a mechanical failure, it makes sense that they gave you a long block with heads, but no manifolds, etc. That said, with today's computer controlled engines, that still leaves a lot of stuff that might not possibly be put on correctly. Sometimes, it's something as simple as maybe a harness not getting plugged back in snugly enough, or something. But, it sounds like they've ruled out spark-related stuff (coils, plugs, wires), hence why they're thinking injectors. Since it probably ran fine when they tested everything (otherwise they wouldn't have released it to you), they probably suspect something got into the fuel path during all the reassembling of things, and eventually clogged the injectors, and that's why you experienced the problem later. FWIW, on my last 3 motors that were worked hard, not one of them needed new wires, or plugs for that matter. Good plugs and wires seem to last forever these days. One I sold with 235,000 miles, the others I still have. One has 145,000 miles and one is a racing outboard engine hand-built in 1998, which is 27 years ago! Yes, I pulled plugs on all of them over the years/miles/hours but all plugs still looked good. Amazing.

Status refers to whether or not you had a particular recall performed. So, it won't show complete until they perform the recall remedy which, in this case, has not yet been defined, so you can't complete it.

I purchased the LXP based on info gathered on this forum that said the LXP is a Bakflip in Line-X clothing, but I'm now not so sure about that. While it does LOOK awfully similar, and fold up like a Bakflip, there are some succinct yet distinct differences. For example, my LXP cover does not have the corner pieces on the front like it does on the back. Instead, my top-side seals extend forward and simply lay on the front overhanging seal. My brother-in-law has a Bakflip on this F150 and has corner pieces in front and back. My LXP also only has a double-lip seal on the back whereas his Bakflip has a triple-lip seal. My instructions also said to lift the cover before closing the tailgate. I don't lift it first, and although sometimes the tailgate rail cover bumps into the edge of the cover and lifts the cover slightly, the tailgate closes just fine. While the rear double-lip seal seems to keep water out just fine, the front corners let in quite a bit more than I would prefer when it rains, and I'd like to try and shore up the fr9nt corners a bit. I notice Bakflip has an "upgrade" kit that includes 4 corner pieces, but my extended top-side seals would have to be cut to accommodate the front corner pieces, and I'm not so sure I want to do that, unless that what's supposed to be done, but I can't find instructions for the upgrade kit anywhere. I guess i might be able to add some pieces of weatherstrip, or silicone putty, or something instead. In either case, can anyone please post pics of the front corners and rear seal of their LXP so I can see if mine is a one-off, or it's supposed to be the way it is.

Thank you for posting these upates. I, for one, really appreciate you keeping us in the loop.

What model and trim do you have, and what was the quote?

Oh, OK, then been there, done that. Nice video, by the way.

There are SO many videos on this. Do you have a link to the one you specifically mentioned?

Maybe I worded it wrong, but you know what I meant.

Cleaning is one thing, but what if something was actually MADE out of spec by ten thousandths. Could take a bit of time to show a problem, but eventually will. Maybe there is a bad journal, or bad rod. Maybe they weigh all the rods from one manufacturer going into the Vette motors to get balance as good as can be for a production motor, but the product manger for the trucks authorized the use of rods from any manufacturer in the trucks, and maybe even mixed batches, or worse, mixed manufacturers. That sure would make a difference. Of course, just postulating. Interesting, though, that they know the exact date range of the affected motors. So, they know exactly what's wrong, which will eventually become public, but they will likely not share HOW it happened.

Never mind what I asked you in your previous post. I see now what you're getting at. That said, It's possible that the Vette and trucks lines used blocks from different builds, and those different builds used parts from different suppliers, or parts from different runs from the same supplier.