MeatEater23

Still awaiting feedback. Hoping these pics open the conversation some so I can see what everyone's take is.

Attached is my current positive battery cable. As you can see, its shimmed and looks a little weathered. This will undoubtedly get replaced once my cable arrives. Thoughts?

See the cable to the left. This cable comes off the negative battery cable. This pic is from beneath the front bumper in between the headlights. Does that corrosion look bad enough to warrant changing the negative battery cable? I haven't received the positive battery cable yet so I cannot say whether or not my issues will be fixed but that corrosion surely makes me wonder if I should swap the negative as well. Its only 3 or 4 years old but even when it was brand new I still had electrical issues such as clock resetting to 1200 and my dual climate resetting to 74.

Let me ask this. Under the hood you can see where the ac drip hose is. As I wait for my positive battery cable to arrive I noticed that the one end of the positive cable going to the starter is having that AC hose water drip on it and I swear I can hear that water sizzle when it lands on the positive battery cable. Should that cable be so warm that it results in that water sizzling?

Being the negative cable was replaced not long ago (years ago now) I may just replace the positive cable. If that doesn't do it, perhaps I'll get another negative cable and pray for the best.

I'm sure there is a voltage drop test I could perform but I cannot find what values to expect in doing so. Either way, is this another vote for replacing the battery cable? Yesterday I went ahead and checked over the junction box under the truck and unplug thr harness connections and all of them looked clean and they were snug. I also checked the bcm connections along with the brake switch. I read that there is a ground to the left of the steering column under the knee bolster. I plan to look into this asap. I should mention that we live in the North where our roads get pounded with rock salt. Needless to say, our trucks get rusty.

After doing some reading some claim the majority of corrosion is found right inside of the crimp. Some had great success with just doing the end but I will try the entire cable. RockAuto has 2 positive cables, I'll look under my hood this morning and make sure I order the correct one. Isn't there some sort of voltage test or drop test I can perform to see if its in fact the cable?

The negative cable was done about 3 years ago. One shop sword the negative cable was the culprit for all of my issues. Sadly, they were wrong as the issues persisted immediately after.

I am certainly willing to try this. I think the last time I checked, the positive cables are about 60 to 70 dollars.

Sadly the last GM tech cleared all codes after he tried a few things but it very well could he the positive cable since the terminal end is indeed shimmed. There is enough slack to splice the end and put a new end of there. Is it worth cutting that end and putting a new end on the cable? If so, which kind of end should I opt for? I probably don't want two separate ends for the battery cables, right?

@64BAwagon were the brakes even making the dash lights flicker or the radio pop?

Still cannot find or confirm where the grounds are for the headlights.

@richard wysong, I assume you have checked the light sockets for power and grounds and the correct bulbs. In the 6 years I have owned the truck I have only ever had to put in headlights and I have always gone with the Sylvania H11's. I had my fiancé in the truck and toggled all lights on and confirmed every single bulb works and illuminates.

The GM tech tested each pin and said everything looked stellar, practically brand new.

I should mention that two weeks ago I had a flashing airbag light on my dash, my mirror compass and thermostat display was freaking out and my radio was cutting in and out. Not sure if this helps any. That only happened once though.