23RST

You know I suspected the sway link for the same reasons you stated. I did tighten it again weighted, it needed it. What is the torque spec? I also had to hold the spindle still with a hex but I did not check with a torque wrench as it would always just spin the ball joint.

Pre assembled, DIY, started a month or so after the alignment Just updated the post, turning does not affect the noise It's also totally quiet when driving, turning, bumps, etc

Just started a few weeks ago: Whenever I start the truck, put it in drive, and begin to roll with a little bit of turn in the wheel, there's a metal creaking noise (similar to a bad ball joint or rubbing brake dust shield) coming from underneath, probably one of the wheel wells. Noise doesn't happen again until the truck stops and sits and cools off for a few hours. truck has 4k miles on it only mods potentially related are Bilstein coilovers up front (shocks in rear as well) I've double checked the work, all nuts are tight Any ideas? UPDATE: does not require any turn in the wheel to maybe the noise

great idea! going to give this a shot UPDATE: no dice...think the insert is just reaming out the aluminum from the tube at this point

would love to but tube is aluminum!

both of these bolts stripped away whatever press fit threads are on the inside & now this bracket is stuck halfway on/off... any ideas to either get these bolts out or just back in all the way at this point? I don't *need* this bracket out and in hindsight didn't have to touch this one

But same bolt part number?

Where is that nut/clip used? From what I see underneath my truck the bolts go directly into the body. I don't see anywhere or such clips to be placed.

Got it...all of it

Speaking of driver side, these holes on the strut do not match the truck... or, the T bar on bottom needs rotated the other direction so I can rotate the shock around. Emailed the seller... A second issue here, how do I pop the CV axle back into the front diff? It popped out a bit when I was manipulating the wheel hub.

Thanks! I'm gonna loosen the screws and try it tomorrow.

With those 5100s, did it have you reinstall the bottom bolts going upward towards the CV axle? My 6112s did and I found it quite odd & pretty close to the CV axle. But then again that's the OEM position and the bolts didn't magically get longer. Just thinking aloud.

Has anyone installed front coilovers on a diesel (not sure if it makes a difference)? This plastic bridge thru-holes don't align with the bolts on the passenger side. Any ideas to get it aligned? Tackling the driver side tomorrow. Hit me with any questions y'all may have

where do the clips go? Body is threaded - just discard them?

Would a radio unit out of high country work? Found one online from a wreck. It's the same 7spkr system and appears to have all of the same switches/equipment as my RST. Should be plug and play?

Yeah I think I am taking it to dealer today. Problem is, I can no longer connect the factory speakers. They only have that connector and no wire leads and I didn't leave enough wire left on them to splice them back into the circuit. I'm just going to tell them the stereo didn't sound right so I changed the speakers. Radio must've just been bad the whole time.. I swear

Yeah there's U0447-00 something about video processing. this one I can clear, but it always shows up again

Just the speakers. Amplifier shows no codes so I assume it must be the radio. However, the dash speakers wire directly to the amplifier. There is nothing in between. I don't see how it could've jumped the amplifier (which is code-free) to the radio. Must be something else.

System is Bose. Initially I shorted one of the speaker wires which threw an amplifier code. I was able to erase those and the speakers worked. Something didn't sound right however and I noticed the the driver side polarity was reversed, solving that mystery. I fixed the polarity only this time I did not accidentally short anything and the amplifier still showed 2 codes. I cleared them, only now I still have no sound out of the corner dash speakers. I also have these 2 codes I cannot clear. Any ideas?

Thanks all for the replies I ordered this kit as it was cheaper than buying dealership stuff I didn't need. Of course none of the bolts match the threads on the truck.... https://www.americantrucks.com/barricade-silverado1500-replacement-side-step-bar-hardware-kit-for-s112206-only-u2534h.html Going to try those GM bolts and find some stainless washers from McMaster

anyone identify a fastener / kit part number ? I got some $1100 boards for $200 with the brackets already on them but no fasteners

Does anyone know a parts kit for attaching the points circled (see attached photo)? If anyone knows a thread pitch that would also help as I could put my own hardware together if needed. I scooped up a pair of running boards & am in need of the fastening hardware that attach the brackets to the body.

but all of the other speakers work still.... Can I remove the amp and replace an internal fuse? Or just replace the whole thing? It's not hard to get to, behind the rear seats.

Hey I'm in need of a little help.... I put these exact corner speakers in last night. I did the work with the truck off obviously, but my battery was still plugged in. I shorted the wires on the passenger corner when I cut them (there's no aftermarket pigtail so you have to splice them). When I did so, you could hear the short, and also the digital dash illuminated for about a minute, it showed it's usual "Z71" graphic, and then turned off. I twisted the wires together with the new KFC-X2C wires, crimped them, and tested the stereo. All other speakers work except for BOTH dash corners (I only shorted the passenger side). Any ideas? Did I fry a fuse in the amplifier?

Truck is a 2023 1500 RST w/Bose: Was replacing the corner tweeters. Truck was off, not in accessory, but battery was still connected. Went to clip the wires as there is no aftermarket connector available (yet) and you have to splice them. I shorted the 2 wires across my wire cutters on the passenger side only. I heard the short & the digital gauge cluster also turned on and flashed it's "Z71" graphic thing, and then eventually turned off. I have finished the speaker install but I have no sound out of either corner tweeter. What did I damage by this electrical short? Some module? Where is it located? Part Number? Thanks