Rick_

I am currently trying Archoil but I've noticed no magic with regens or mileage changes. I may bring some Power Service for the return trip when I go to AZ in February. Other than that, local stations carry blended fuel in the winter so no issues on gelling.

A company I worked for used to order these, upfit to rear duals and avoid having to stop at weigh stations just for having a two place sled trailer in tow with a couple passengers. Their 1 tons were for the 8 place featherlight gooseneck sneaking in at just under 26,000. MN has a license tab fee break for 1 tons so that might be a consideration. My 3/4 ton diesels rode and handled way better than my 1 ton. The Max trailering package on a 1/2 ton 3.0L is not quite enough spring to handle a tongue weight of 700some lbs and the 3.73 went away for 2023 and newer in favor of a numerically lower (3.42?) ratio. I like the 3.73s in my 2022 and air springs are easier to add than air bags in coil spring rears...

Here's some info from nextgendiesel on how to extend transmission life. Nextgen also sells valve body repair kits directly to GM dealers now to fix the issues the 10spd transmissions are currently having. https://nextgendiesel.com/blogs/transmissions-101/top-5-ways-to-extend-the-life-of-a-factory-transmission For temps over 200F, the seals and o-rings need to be made out of a more expensive HNBR rather than cheap nitrile. Also, planetaries and shaft/bushing interfaces like a bit more lubricity than what LV and ULV fluids afford. Taking the word of a dealer is not a be-all end-all answer as I've had dealers and sales managers lie to me face to face. My experience with automatic transmissions and heavy duty hydraulics is that a temperature limit below 105C makes for happy customers. YMMV

My wife's '22 RST 3.0 with our 5000lb boat running 70mph in rolling hills at around 3000ft in low 90's temp runs up to 201* even with the Max Trailering package. Looks like it's going to get the PPE bypass. My '24 3500 Duramax barely cracks 150* with the same boat running between 70-75mph.

...except if one has the Max Trailering package. It would be cool if there was a workaround. Excerpt from the description- SKU: 84993582 Positions:Rear Other Names: Suspension Lift Kit Description: Each system features front and rear passive monotube dampers specifically tuned to the chassis, jounce bumpers, rear leaf spring spacers and much more for fully integrated installation. An exclusive Front Camera Reconfiguration and an Electronic Power Steering Calibration is included, so that all driver-assist systems continue to function seamlessly. Read the vehicle’s Owner’s Manual for important driver-assist system feature limitations and information. Expert installation by an authorized GM Dealer is recommended. The 2-inch Suspension Lift cannot be installed on all regular cab trucks, 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Custom Trail Boss and LT Trail Boss, all Max Trailering Package trucks (NHT), all Snow Plow Prep-equipped trucks (VYU), or any 2019+ Chevrolet Silverado 1500 equipped with composite rear leaf springs (Chevrolet LT Trim with 5. Kick the ride of your vehicle up a notch with the Chevrolet Performance Trail Boss Spec Lift Suspension Upgrade System. This Chevrolet accessory can help to personalize, customize, or optimize the capability of your vehicle for your lifestyle and use. Kick the ride of your vehicle up a notch with the GMC Performance AT4 Spec Lift Suspension Upgrade System. The only 2-inch Suspension Lift designed, engineered, tested and backed by Chevrolet specifically for the All-New Silverado 1500. Developed by the same vehicle-level engineers that built the truck, this system was tested under the same grueling conditions, and will not void the New Vehicle Limited Warranty.

The RAM Ecodiesel DEF tank capacity is 8 gallons. I could go almost a year without filling it on my '17 ECO; GDE tune and 3-4000 miles towing a 5500lb boat, doing about 12-15k miles/year. My '22 1500 LM2 gets maybe 3600-4800 miles between DEF fills. The tank capacity is 5.3 gallons which explains part of the fill frequency difference between the LM2 and the Ecodiesel.

I have a 2022 1500 RST 3.0L w/Max trailering package and I want to raise it to have the same ride height as a similarly equipped 2022 1500 LTZ with the max trailering package. I had a '22 LTZ w/Max Trailering and factory 20" wheels and it barely settled with my boat on the hitch. I did have helper air springs but never put over 5spi in them. What is needed to raise the front? Just springs or spring spacers? To raise the rear, is it near the same as the afore-mentioned spring blocks, jounce bumper plates, and associated hardware? TIA

Are you the same guy from Wisconsin posting this issue on X also? If you're from the Milwaukee area, they use some of the most aggressive "salt" in the winter I've ever experienced. My '22 Silverado I bought used from a WI dealer had a crystalline buildup on the cab underside - I've never seen that before. Since I wash my trucks weekly, I haven't experienced any excessive undercarriage rust...

My fiver started the hucka bucka on the way home from Camping World. Called up my buddy and he said he always pulls his fiver with a full water tank. I filled up the water tank, added a second battery, put in all the equipment in the storage compartment and the bucking is nearly eliminated. 19th Ave in West Fargo could get my trailer bucking anytime no matter how it was loaded so some roads at lower speeds may induce the issue but for the most part I'm happy.

Digging into this further, the trailer accessory camera replacement PN shows that it is used in both side mirrors and the rear view camera in the tailgate. I accessed the camera in the tailgate and it does use the same connection as the trailer camera. A quick substitution of cameras and the trailer camera I have works fine. So now, I'm left with either the trailer harness is broken or something with the trailer app in the infotainment center. I'm thinking the harness is intermittently opening up. Does any GM parts guys know if the trailer camera harness is available as a separate PN?

Does anyone know if any of the body or side mirror cameras use the same type of wire connection as the accessory trailer camera? I found out the grille camera is way different so before I take any more of the truck apart, I thought I would ask. I checked continuity of the trailer camera harness and it has proper continuity so I want to plug the trailer camera into a similar plug on the truck and see if the camera has puked before I spend money on a replacement.

I get the same unintentional key fob activity with my wife's '22 and my '24 as both have the same design. It doesn't matter if I have anything else in my pocket or not. I do have trailer lock keys, a gate key, and a house key on the fob and those aren't coming off. Never happened with the 4 RAM pickups I owned. Maybe the test drivers didn't wear Wrangler jeans as that's the only constant between all the trucks I've owned.

I built a MOVE bumper and grille guard and can get through Billings car washes without issue. My buddy has a Ranch Hand version and a lift kit with 35s on his F350 and fits just underneath max height to get through the same car wash places.

The door latch is a pin joint. Pin joints are not as structural as you might think. The door can slide fore and aft and rotate about the pin. Since the latch fit is not perfect, the door will also move vertically on the pin. I can see the wear on the latch in the doorframe so there is movement. The only thing retarding those motions is the door seal, which is obviously not a structural element. Roll your window down with the door closed and drive about 20-25mph down a dirt road with some washboard in it. Watch and feel your door and see how much it moves. Ever notice how noisy the interior of the truck gets when quartering a stiff sidewind? Put the ends of your fingers where the window frame meets the cab roof while driving and let us know how it changes. If your truck doesn't exhibit any clunks or other issues, good on you. There are those of us that do experience door clunking and such and are looking for others that may have experience with it and had proper remedies applied. Claiming my diagnostic techniques are not valid is a matter of opinion and everyone is surely entitled to one. Since this thread has already devolved into structural OSB and drywall anecdotes, it will probably become inactive in a short time. Anyway, removing the front door panel does not affect the door clunk much - more like it is a bit less prevalent due to almost 10lbs of plastic and Styrofoam being removed. Only have the C pillar cover left to remove and find out what's shaking in there...

You're saying the door latch is a structural element of the door/cab system? oooooooook. The door, hinges and the A-pillar are the structural elements in that system and the latch keeps you from falling out of the truck. At least the door/window don't leak in a big side wind like all my RAMs did. Your could physically feel the window frame move away from the cab under the right conditions. Anyway, same bumps with the mirrors tucked and seat belt yanked all the way out and still get the same clunking in my left ear. Next steps are removing the driver's side door panels and the C pillar cover and hit the same bumps again. After that will be mirror removal, then off to the dealer and let them look at it under warranty.

The red ones on my wife's 1500 RST are just fine after 2 1/2 years. It appears they know how to add UV protectant to that color to keep them from turning pink...

Even though I had the driver's tow mirror replaced, my left ear would still clunking on certain bumps. I didn't know if it was the door/latch or the shoulder belt reel in the pillar. I live on a rattly dirt road so when I hit the bumpy spot in the road and heard the clunkity clunk, I cracked the door open and hit the next set of bumps - holy cow, there is a huge bunch of door movement up by the front of the door, like the door mount structure or the hinges aren't able to hold the world's heaviest towing mirror up. I'll pull it into my shop soon and see if I can diagnose the issue. The lower door hinge are of the lower A-pillar does flex a little but nothing can be done about that. The hinge pins are tight although the hinges are much smaller in height than I remember on previous trucks. The pendulum of the shoulder belt reel doesn't seem to be a cause of the clunk. Holding the belt tight after pulling it out all the way doesn't affect the clunking. There is more wear on the frame side of the door latch than normal. Maybe it's time to talk to a body shop and see what they do to remedy the issue... Folding the mirrors eliminates most of the clunking so far. I'll do it for a few days to see if it's a coincidence or the biggest culprit.

Has anybody installed a Nextgen VB kit or VB and remedied the issue? Since the kit is only $800 and is available, it seems it would be a viable alternative to letting trucks sit at dealerships for weeks or months hoping that they have engineered a a permanent fix. My 3500HD trans is working fine at 30k miles but my 2022 1500 Baby Dmax 10spd might get a little preventative maintenance...

For those that had accessory camera issues, do you also have the updated brake controller (located above the spare tire)? either by coincidence or some other issue, my accessory camera went on the fritz after the brake controller was replaced. It sometimes worked in the driveway but hitting the brakes a few times while in park makes it go black...

Measure the clearance between the duals with and without the fiver hooked up. This is to get an idea if the tires bulge much with a load. If the clearance is greater than 30mm when loaded, then the 245s, being 10mm wider than the 235s, but only 5mm wider on one side, there would be 20mm clearance with the 245s. If there is only 10mm clearance on the 235s when loaded, then the 245s are a no go.

I just towed a tractor on a gooseneck on hilly roads between Great Falls and Roundup and I experienced the same thing. On downhills, it'll downshift one or two gears, undershoot the cruise speed by 2-3mph and generally aggravate the driver. I expect the downshifts on uphills and that performance is acceptable. Eventually I just cancelled cruise on downhills and played games with the exhaust brake to attempt to keep a constant speed. This is not really an acceptable work-around as the you can feel the trailer pushing the truck and modulate this with brakes and the exhaust brake. On level highway, cruise works perfect for the most part. The inconsistent speed on downhills and downshifts that don't return are not just a 2025 thing. It's also not just a GM thing, my buddies F350 smoker will do the same thing.

Looks like everything with the big infotainment screen is targeted for the update. I haven't received an email for my 2022 1500 yet.

The 7 pin connector in the bed has a 4 pin trailer connector integral with it. The camera connections remain with the external 7 pin connector on the bumper. At least that's the way my 2024 LTZ is rigged with the 5th wheel package from the factory.

It's a Duramax I expect better compared to 3 other HD diesels I've owned. Towing in the west where posted speed limits are 75-80mph would make driving 55mph a road hazard. On other forums, it sounds like the update is for infotainment center issues.