QuailChaser

It may be hard to see, but I did use the filter that came with the JBLs. I cut off the OEM connector which has the OEM filter molded into it. I used a dremel to remove the OEM filter, glued the JBL on in the same space, and then soldered it and the tweeter into the connector. Then I glued my masterpiece onto the bottom of the JBL tweeter housing/cup that came with it. I didn’t look for a write up so can’t help you there.

The OEM tweeter has a filter so when I replaced my tweeters, I removed the OEM filter and wired in the one that came with the new tweeters. Yes, there is a plug. Doing it this way was not plug and play. I spent about an hour on each tweeter getting them to the point they were plug and play.

I've heard that is attributed to modern traction control / rollover mitigation which uses automatic engagement of the rear brakes more than the fronts. I also have a couple % difference front to rear with rear wearing more and nothing seems off to me, so I'm not worried about it.

The back panel from the newer consoles fits the old ones with the trimming of 2 tabs. Then you can reuse the rear seat USB ports from the jump seat and not need to rewire anything.

I didn’t document how, but I took mine apart to take out the lock assembly for the lower storage area. I can tell you it was a pain, and I broke a clip of plastic on one side and I was being super careful. I’ve since learned that steaming the plastic can make it less likely to break when pulling it off. Good luck.

I drilled a hole in the back wall of the cab to bring the antenna wire in. This was dictated by the antenna wire routing from the topper.

Seems to help. Hard to tell. In a couple places turned it on and gone from no service to one bar or one bar to two.

This doesn’t exactly answer your question, but I am also halfway through installing one and I will be adding it to one of the AUX switches as part of the up fitter switch kit. I am going to use switch/button 5 which is the only one that you can’t select (through fuse location) to be IGN vs BATT, but I carry a jump box so not too worried about leaving it on. I am mounting it behind the rear seat back and the wire for switch 5 is also near there so makes running power to it easier.

I’m in north ATL and have a center jump seat I’d like to sell. PM me.

Anyone here with a Super Pacific X1 on your Silverado / Sierra? I bought my Silverado just to have a great platform for this topper. Order the truck last fall, took delivery in January. I take delivery of the X1 in early September. I have a couple bird dogs and love to hunt, but anywhere with decent populations of birds are a 3-5+ hours away so makes for some late night / early morning travel to maximize my time in the field. I'm looking forward to being able to drive closer to where I'll hunt the night prior, rest/sleep, and be able to pack up super quick in the morning. I'll also be able to hunt later into the evening and have a place to sleep and then drive home rested the next day.

Nothing actually, maybe a small boat or utility trailer here or there. Got the truck to outfit with a Super Pacific X1 tent topper to be a nimble upland hunting rig / overland truck. I've got 3 bird dogs and during bird season, travel between upstate and downstate multiple times a week, so need something that can eat highway miles with good MPGs, can handle rutted out muddy roads, deploy camp in the dark in 5 minutes or less and be a street/daily driver the other 90% of the time. I also need the ability to stealth camp in the bed with the tent not deployed, and since I am 6'2", needed the standard bed to be able to do that. I tried to do it once diagonally in the 5'6" bed of my previous truck (Tacoma), and didn't sleep well at all so wasn't going to try it with the short bed this time around. Not surprising. Without looking, I'd guess that most, maybe all, of the 1500s have a 15K GCWR, so the towing capacity is less about the ability of the powertrain, and more likely a limitation of the chassis design (frame, brakes, suspension, etc.). Your short bed and gas engine weigh less, so that's likely the 300# difference, since your truck is probably ~5300#, or 300# less than my truck. The same thing applies for payload. If I recall, the highest payload was the single cab, standard bed, 4 cylinder WT trim: smallest, lightest truck with least amount of options, left the most available payload since it wasn't utilized by heavier engines, cab, bed length or options. I almost got one of those, but the wife really wanted the crew cab and honestly, I really wanted the diesel. I think it had a payload near 2K#.

I’m not an engineer, but if it were me: 9k once or twice a year for an hour or two or less, sure, I’d do it. 9k all the time, I’d go up to at least a 2500. The GCWR is only 15k, so as I understand it, if you had a 9k trailer, subtract that weight, plus the curb weight, only leaves 405#. Not sure how much you weigh, but doesn’t leave very much room to haul anything else. Might have to leave the wife at home and only bring the dog. Maybe that’s a good thing?

Notable Options: 20” wheels with AT (not MT) tires Multi-Flex tailgate (I imagine more weight than a normal tailgate) I hope this helps you in your search.

I ordered a Custom Trail Boss 6.5’ bed and 3.0L diesel and love it. I agree and appreciate the simplicity of the older dash and analog gauges. No, as mentioned above, can’t get it with the Max Tow, but it can tow more than enough for me in its current configuration. I think Ben Hardy on YouTube recently did a video of the same truck a couple weeks ago, so it might still be available (in Utah I think).