Probity

I don’t have a 6.2L in my ’24, but as a new-to-GM owner again after 48 years (last new GM truck a ’76 Sierra) I’m sort of interested in this issue. Like others, am curious about/would like to know the details on what specific issues were identified at American Axle and Questum Macimex, corrective measures taken, etc. The engine oil viscosity issue is a whole other matter that I’m sure will be debated at great length. But I’m not sure we’ll ever get all the AA/QM gory details. I’m not familiar enough with the NHTSA procedures/protocols involved in initiating/completing Investigations and Recalls, timelines, what publicly available information will ultimately end up in the NHTSA Investigations site for this 6.2L issue. My previous ride was a F-150 with the 2.7L Nano EB engine and I got very interested in the MY2021/2022 “loss of motive power/intake valves may break” Investigation and subsequent recall with the 2.7L Nano engines (a much smaller population of potentially affected vehicles - ~90k versus the ~600k for the 6.2L). This was Ford’s Silchrome 1 vs. Silchrome Lite controversy. I did a fairly deep dive into the NHTSA docs available on this, and was able to learn a fair bit about the issues at the Eaton Kearney facility that made the intake valves, what corrective measures were taken, etc. But the whole NHTSA process for this Ford 2.7L problem was different than that with the GM 6.2L (and different than that with the Toyota MY2022-2023 V35A engine issue/recall). Ford actively fought issuing a recall. The NHTSA’s ODI first opened a prelim. evaluation of the intake valve problem in July 2022 (requiring 18 specific info requests to be answered), upgraded to an Engineering Analysis in Sept. 2023. On Ford’s side, they had begun investigating the problem in July 2021, claimed they had determined the root cause(s) and initiated corrective actions, and had eliminated the problem for vehicles produced after Oct. 2021. But Ford pushed back issuing a recall. Finally in Aug. 2024 Ford caved and issued their recall. Before the recall was issued, the Investigation site was populated with numerous (66) documents from Ford and Eaton, running hundreds if not thousands of pages. A majority of these docs were heavily redacted (some 99% or more – confidentiality issues), but there was enough unredacted info for me to see in some detail the root cause(s) [Silchrome Lite material, machining and grinding, QAQC checks), and corrective actions taken (go back to using Silchrome 1, manufacturing process and QAQC changes). One big take-away for me was that even though the issue involved only MY2021-20222 2.7L Nano’s, the switch from using Silchrome 1 material to using Silchrome Lite was actually made in 2018 for MY2018 and beyond engines – and was the result of a ‘cost reduction’ effort in 2018 (imagine that!). The GM 6.2L Investigation/Recall is different. NHTSA’s ODI first opened a prelim. evaluation of the problem in Jan. 2025. 14 (not 18 like Ford had to answer) specific info requests from ODI to be answered by GM before March 28, 2025. GM petitioned for (and received from NHTSA) an extension until late April 2025 to answer many of these info requests. Then from GM, they issued their safety recall on April 24, 2025. And at the same time, GM has told NHTSA (as of today) that for 3 of the Investigation info requests (#2, #9, #10) they are claiming a “Confidential Business Information (CBI) request from the manufacturer for the entirety of each document.” So I’m not confident in seeing root cause/corrective action details in future, but who knows, time will tell. GM has told NHTSA that they “closed three prior investigations into this condition in February 2022, June 2023, and July 2024 based on the available safety field information.”. And that they’ve ‘fixed’ the problem (“A series of crankshaft and connecting rod manufacturing improvements implemented on or before June 1, 2024, addressed contamination and quality issues”). So presumably problem root cause(s) and corrective actions are known and corrected. But right now only GM, American Axle and Questum Macimex know what they are. Toyota’s problem with their V35A engines was an even different process – no NHTSA Investigation, Toyota went straight to recall. So it’s all interesting stuff, but at the end of the day, knowing exactly what the root causes were and exactly what corrective actions were taken for the 6.2L is probably not in my future.

2024 Silverado 1500 WT CCSB with 2.7 Turbomax. Hadn’t driven in about a week, hopped in yesterday, got my first “Important GM Recall N242452130 is available to install” message. This was my first experience with an OTA software install. I associate a ‘recall’ with a safety issue (as opposed to a customer service program thing or technical service bulletin or whatever else GM calls their various communications). It was definitely called a Recall not a CSP or TBS or whatever. Anyway, at the time had no idea what this “recall” was about but decided what the hell, I’ll install it. Said it would take about 15 minutes, actual time from start to finish was only about 6 minutes. Told me to shut the engine down, and software install done with ignition off. No issues with install I’m aware of. So then I tried to figure out what the “recall” was about. Checked NHTSB site – nada. Checked the Manufacturers Communications (all 525 of them) for my year/make/model – nada. Web-searched “GM N242452130” and the only thing I found was on a Colorado forum from a few days ago (called a Service Update in the doc posted, not a Recall, but the poster’s screen message also said it was a recall). I know some ’23 Colorados/Silverados with the 2.7 got an “Emission Recall” calling for replacing all 4 fuel injectors. A very limited population of affected vehicles (272). https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2024/MC-10248331-0001.pdf I found nothing similar for ’24 Colorados/Silverados with the 2.7 where it called for actually replacing the fuel injectors. The OTA I installed yesterday just supposedly reprogrammed the ECM. Anyway, anybody able to shed more light on what this is? Emissions-only related or something else?

For what it's worth, I posted this in the general topics forum by mistake - if you have a 2.7 with the metal oil pan may be of interest.

Thanks for feedback. In the cosmic scheme of things this isn’t a huge issue but on the irritation scale it’s a solid 9 out of 10 for me. It does piss me off that you can’t buy replacement seals to fit p/n 11602884 oil pan drain plugs, you have buy the plug itself to get a new seal. For the 5.3 V8’s you can get stand-alone replacement seals, for the (older) 2.7 with plastic pans/plastic drain plugs you can get stand-alone replacement o-ring seals, but not for the 2.7 with aluminum oil pans. I initially though the oil drain plug thread form/drain plug seal for my 2.7 would be the same as that for the 5.3 V8 (M12x1.75) but that’s evidently wrong. You can buy a new GM p/n 55577568 oil drain plug (fits 200+ GM products from ’24 Encores with the 1.2 engine to ’24 Silverados with the 5.3/6.2 down to a 2013 Sonic with the 1.8) for $10 or less that comes with a new seal. Or just buy a replacement drain plug seal (p/n 12616850) – fits over 600+ GM models from 2024 to 2003. Or numerous aftermarket easy drain valves with M12x1.75 male end (Fumoto, EZ Drain, Votex, Valvomax, etc). But you’re SOL if you have the metal pan 2.7, only GM choice is the $50+ drain plug. P/N 11602884 drain plug fits 2024 Silverado/Sierra/Colorado/Canyon with the 2.7 engine, and the aluminum oil pan p/n 12732388 is the same also. I surfed a Colorado forum and found folks with the metal pan 2.7’s who had questions like mine. Someone measured the drain plug thread form and said it is M10x1.5, another member tried a M12x1.75 drain plug and said it definitely did not fit. I searched online a lot and didn’t find any aftermarket M10x1.5 elastomer drain plug seals for use on p/n 11602884, only aluminum crush washers. I found plenty of aftermarket M10x1.5 drain plugs with crush washers. The easy drain oil valve folks don’t help. Fumoto says they don’t have a product for a ’24 2.7 Colorado but do have a product for a ’24 2.7 Silverado – problem is, it has M12x1.75 male end and won’t fit. Votex says you can use either a M10x1.5 magnetic drain plug w/crush washer (fits) or M12x1.75 quick drain plug (which won’t fit). Valvomax only has M12 plugs. EZ Drain in their applications charts doesn’t show any M10x1.5 options – however – they recently (this year) started selling a valve (EZ-126) with M10x1.5 male end. A number of ’24 Colorado folks with the 2.7 opted to go with the EZ-126 and are happy so far. Uses a Viton o-ring seal against the oil pan, -40 deg F to +365 deg F temp rating, 250 psi rating, stainless steel components/forged nickel-plate brass body, about 1” long. The “unique” GM 2.7 oil drain plug ticked me off so I just bought a EZ-126 and will try it at my next oil change. About $30 for me which includes a dust cover and shipping. Here’s a pic of one on a ’24 Colorado AT4X:

A question for all you ’24 (or maybe a ’25 with a lot of miles) 4-banger owners with the stamped metal oil pan who’ve done numerous (more than 2) oil/filter changes yourself: The metal oil drain plug (p/n 11602884 – also fits 2020-2024 Cadillac CT5 with 3.0L V6) has a removable seal/gasket for effecting the metal oil pan seal. How many times (i.e. how many oil changes) do you reuse the seal/gasket before buying a new one? Why am I asking such a silly question? Because I’ve unfortunately discovered that the drain plug seal/gasket doesn’t have a part number (it’s a NS – non-serviceable – item) and that you have to buy a new drain plug to get a new seal! 1st time I changed my oil I discovered that it had a stamped metal oil pan (yay!) and that the drain plug had an elastomeric seal (not a crush washer). So I reused the seal, all was good. Before my next oil change, looked online, couldn’t find a p/n for the seal/gasket for the metal drain plug. Went to my local Chevy dealer parts dept. and told ‘em I wanted to buy a new oil drain plug seal/gasket. Parts guy dutifully looked up my VIN, sold me p/n 12667457. Fast-forward to today – drained my oil again, went to swap out the drain plug gasket/seal, discovered dealer had sold me the wrong part (didn’t match at all). So drove back to the dealership in my grocery-getter car, showed the same parts guy no match, and he says “yeah I sold you the wrong part – 12667457 is for a ’23 2.7 (which must have the plastic pan/plastic drain plug)”. So I ask for the RIGHT seal/gasket. After a lot more looking he tells me “yeah the metal drain plug comes with a seal/gasket but the seal/gasket itself does not have a p/n, it’s an NS item, you have to buy a new drain plug to get the seal/gasket”. OK, what will that cost me? “Well, don’t hit me, but list price is $75.00.” What the hell? Yeah you can find them cheaper online, but still - $47 for a friggin’ oil drain plug just to get a new seal/gasket? No thank you. 2020-2024 GM Oil Pan Drain Plug 11602884 GM | GMPartsDirect.com So I’ve reused the old seal/gasket again. But eventually I’m gonna want a new seal. So how many oil changes before you’d spring for an outrageously priced drain plug/seal???

In theory you can do better than $800/month Current Chevy Deals & Offers: New Car Deals (chevrolet.com) , in practice you know what you've found. Just to try and give a point of reference, here are 'averages' as noted by Experian for 1Q2024. Don't know the spec on the Silverado listed. PowerPoint Presentation (experian.com)

Well my long-ish roadtrip is finished, it was a good one. So for some fairly useless information regards my original OLM query: 1. Trip was 2166 miles door-to-door over ~5 days, 34.4 engine hrs, so ave. 63 mph (lots of pee stops, minor traffic delays in Memphis, St. Louis, Kansas City), on the interstate hwys between 70-80 mph. 2. OLM was 99% at start of trip, 71% at end, so 28%/2166 mi. = ~1.3% oil life 'expended' per 100 miles of (mainly) highway travel over a 5 day period. 3. Pre-trip numbers (before 1st oil change) was ~5 months ownership, 1234 miles/43.5 engine hours (~28.4 mph ave.), OLM at 64% before change. So for my 'city' driving, 36%/1234 mi. = ~2.9% oil life 'expended' per 100 miles of (mainly) city driving over a ~5 month period. Time interval certainly a factor here. So now I'm a little smarter but not really wiser. Made it home safely with the frozen and processed 1/2 cow (split with inlaws, I'm the designated beef mover each year as their SUV can't accommodate the ice chests), life is good.

Ouch. Tough crowd on this GM forum, if I knew how easy it was to offend some people’s sensibilities asking what I did then I would have asked something really ridiculous just to egg them on. Anyway – regards OLM question it’s all academic now. My schedule changed (even being retired my days are planned out), already had the oil/filter change supplies on-hand, so decided to do 1st oil change early (only 1234 miles on it) before our ~2200 mile trip in very hot weather. Because I can, I’m going off-topic now regards my oil/filter change observations – you long term GM guys/gals can roll your eyes now and stop reading, but it’s been over ~44 years since I last owned a GM PU, so here goes: 1. No obvious oil leaks from underside view of engine/tranny area. I’m old (70’s) and tall and large, never a good combo for crawling around under any vehicle even on ramps, and would gladly pay a competent dealer to do this for me, but periodically doing your own changes are most valuable just to get a feel for general overall underbody conditions and possible problems. It’s a way to be proactive with only a moderate amount of effort (although 110 deg. heat index weather here did make it a very sweaty job for me). 2. My 2wd WT CCSB “came” with a skid plate (an option I didn’t need but it’s there). Kind of underwhelmed on how flimsy it looks. But even with the plate in place, access to pan drain plug and filter is good (no felt “bra” to remove like my previous FoMoCo PU). So + points for GM on that. 3. I was surprised to find my oil pan is metal (stamped aluminum?) not composite. Guess a design change between ’23 and ’24? The 15mm head drain bolt having a rubber gasket vs. crush washer a bit of a surprise too but probably a good thing (I thought no replacement parts needed for a composite pan easy-turn drain plug so didn’t prepare ahead of time for any ‘surprises’). I’ll have to remember to get a few rubber gaskets ahead of any future oil changes. 4. Drain bolt took very little effort to loosen, oil filter wasn’t super-tight as I’ve seen others comment on. 5. Drained the oil then loosened/remove the filter. Was surprised at the amount of oil draining from the filter housing (between ½ and 1 qt? IDK…). Had the time so decided to give it a good long drain period (~1.5 hrs.). 6. On my previous ride, wasn’t possible to pre-fill the spin-on oil filter (2.7 EgoBoost with cartridge filter on top of engine), so I wasn’t in the habit of doing that. But found a TechLink bulletin DTC P06DD Set after Engine Oil Change – TechLink (gm-techlink.com) about avoiding this trouble code so figured I better do the pre-fill. Took about 7 oz. of oil to fill the PF66 before installing it. No DTC after initial start-up. 7. Ran a magnet over the bottom of my plastic waste oil catch pan, no metal picked up so that was good. 8. Used the empty fresh oil bottles to keep the waste oil for disposal. I expected to see slightly less than 6 qts of waste oil, but I actually had a couple more ounces than 6 qts of waste oil. Not sure I like that but who knows how much the initial factory fill amount was (don’t they pump it from a 55 gal. drum?). Anyway, waste oil didn’t smell like gas, I’m not fretting yet. 9. All that sticky tar-like/waxy stuff on frame and suspension members – what the **** is that all about? Surely there’s got to be a better corrosion protection method than that. Have a Happy 4th and Happy Trails.

Lots of "interesting" comments. Somehow it's devolved into discussing in general "when should you change your oil/filter" instead of observations/opinions/etc. on GM oil life monitor operation (what I'm interested in/curious about). Everyone has their own opinion/idea on best oil-change interval mileage and type of oil/filter to use, I've got mine, you've got yours. Like others I use an OLM as a general guideline/reminder, not a "thou must not let your OLM drop below XX% before changing your oil". Anyway - so any thoughts/ideas on what my OLM % remaining will be after my ~2300 mile R/T (over a 4 day period), given that it's currently at ~64%?

Thanks. Yeah I considered (for about 5 seconds) changing oil/filter before my trip, but even with the initial 5w-30 oil from the factory I figured ~3500 miles cumulative on it after my trip isn't much to ask. I am a little curious what the remaining oil life will read at ~3500 miles, not concerned at all but just curious. I know from experience with one of my Fords (a 2012 F250 gasser) that high ambient temps and prolonged idle hours can and does eat up remaining oil life on the OLM at a pretty good pace - got caught in a massive semi truck accident/traffic jam on I10 between Houston and Beaumont once, 6+ hours either at 1-3 mph or dead stop, high 90's/high humidity day, used the A/C a lot. Before the jam I had about 500 miles on the truck since I'd changed the oil, after the jam once I hit about 2500 miles total since my oil change I got the "Change Oil Soon" message. Initial reaction was WTH?, but then remembered my traffic jam time.

Here's a softball general question for those more knowledgeable than me on GM's Oil Life Monitor (OLM) operation. After many years I've moved from numerous F150's to a '24 Silverado 1500 WT CCSB with the 2.7. I know from experience with Ford (and have read it's the same with GM) that even if you're an infrequent driver and don't put a lot of miles on between oil/filter changes, if you go a full year w/o an oil change/resetting the OLM (regardless of however few miles you might have - 10 or 100 or whatever), the OLM will show "zero" remaining oil life at the end of the 1 year period. That's fine, I get why it does that, it is what it is. I'm getting ready to take a ~2300 mile R/T in a week or so. I've had my '24 CCSB for ~4 months now (1/3rd of a year) and only have ~1200 miles in total on it at present. My OLM is showing 64% (about 2/3rds) remaining oil life. My thinking is - the OLM operation is weighted to some degree on time (versus strictly miles accumulated/engine rpms/engine hours/idle time etc), and that's the main reason I've "used up" about 1/3rd of my oil life over a 4 month period (1/3rd of a year) having only driven ~1200 miles. My expectation (wild-ass guess) is that the ~2300 miles I'll soon be putting on over the course of a couple of days will maybe drop my remaining oil life to the ~40% range by the time I get home. Of course If I get caught up in a major interstate traffic jam with many idling hours running the A/C that's a different story. What say you Chevy/GMC mavens?

Thanks

A quick basic question - getting ready for my 1st oil/filter change on my bare-bones '24 Silverado WT CCSB with the 2.7. A bit of a weirdly optioned truck in that it's 2wd but came with the Work Truck Package (skid plate/heavy duty air filter option). I "assume" I can do the drain and filter change w/o having to remove the skid plate - correct?

Resurrecting this topic as I'm a new owner (purchased 2 weeks ago) of a 2024 Silverado 1500 WT CCSB 2.7 2wd (basic truck). It was assembled in Silao. Overall body and interior fit and finish is good, a little better in fact than my previous '18 F150 XLT extended cab built in Kansas City. I looked at both left-over '23s and newer '24 WT's and Customs in LA and TX. I was originally under the assumption that all of GM's 2.7 L3B's were built/assembled at Spring Hill TN plant. I found it a bit strange that all the '23s with 2.7's showed USA as country of origin for the engine on the window sticker. All the '24s showed Mexico as country of origin for the engine.

Just a general interest question I have that I've not been able to answer yet.... I'm a new (2 weeks ago) owner of a 2024 Silverado WT CCSB with the 2.7. I know Silverados are assembled either in Roanoak (Ft. Wayne) IN or Silao Mexico (mine happens to be a Silao truck, 11/23 made date from door jamb sticker). Researched the 2.7 a bit late last year and in Jan. of this year. All articles I saw mentioned the 2.7 as being from the Spring Hill TN GM plant. When I was researching '23s to buy, all window stickers I saw (regardless of US or Mexico assembly plant) had USA country of origin for both the engine and 8 speed tranny. Have looked at a few '22 and earlier window stickers too, they'll all USA for both engine and tranny country of origin. When looking at 2024 Silverados to purchase, every one with the 2.7 (both Roanoak and Silao assembled) had/has window stickers with Mexico country of origin for the engine (tranny still USA). Which GM plant in Mexico "makes" the 2.7? Does Spring Hill still make 2.7? Just curious......

Thanks. Still getting familiar with my new basic WT ride. The last GM truck I owned was a 'bit' different, bought it new....~48 years ago (a 1976 Sierra reg. cab). Most recently coming from a couple of Gen13 (2015-2020) F150's, and in my new Silverado every time I start it and put it in drive I still subconsciously press the shift lever end to move into either Eco or Sport mode - then get reminded 'hey there's no button to do that' .

This is for my future reference. Just bought a '24 Silverado CCSB WT trim, it doesn't have DMC. What trim levels DO have DMC (normal, sport, snow/ice, etc)? I assume you can get 2wd with normal/sport/snow ice - yes? Do you have to go to LT and above to get DMC? Just curious.

Thanks. I'd seen this in the OM too. I was reading it literally - 'The vehicle MAY be equipped with multiple USB ports'....or maybe not. 'Music MAY be played from a connected USB device'....or maybe not. Now I know that on my WT CC the instrument panel USB's (standard equip.) are both charge and data. I don't have rear USB ports in my truck (because it doesn't have the KI4 RPO option), but if it DID have rear USB ports they're evidently charge-only.

Thanks to all that replied. I spent a fair amount of time searching through all Chevy online website and owners manual info regards the Infotainment system trying to a definitive answer to 'are the 2 x instrument panel USB's charge only or both charge/data for my WT trim crewcab?" and I kept striking out. I finally had my 'aha' moment when I found the 2024 Chevy truck online order/reference guide with RPO info: Model Information - Online Ordering Guide (gm.com) This info is a god-send, glad I found it. So my specific '24 WT CC does have/should have USB ports that are both charge and data - under both Standard Equipment and Ordering Info/Interior (shown below), it's RPO code UBJ: So, even though when I go into Audio and don't see USB listed for some strange reason, it should be able to recognize a USB device (according to GM). So if I can't get it work then it's probably either (a) operator error (most likely(, or (b) equipment (USB) fault/defect. I'll keep trying.....

Recently (a week ago) crossed to the dark side (I owned numerous F150's for many decades) and got my new ride at local Chevy dealer. Very basic truck with the 2.7L 4-banger that fits my needs (it does have the WT Value Pkg). Standard equipment is Chevy Infotainment 3 system with 7" screen/bluetooth audio streaming/wireless Android/Apple Carplay (it's not SiriusXM capable), and 2 x USB ports (1 x USB-A, 1 x USB-C). I've got both the roof-mounted shark-fin antenna AND the conventional AM/FM radio antenna on pax side. I'm not tech-savvy and have been trying to understand capabilities of the USB ports. Namely, are they charge-function only (for phone, etc), or can I use one of them for playing off a memory stick with songs ripped from my numerous old CD's. The owner's manual hasn't been a lot of help. I'm thinking that they probably are charge-only because when I go into Infotainment Home screen/Audio, only devices choices shown are AM/FM/Bluetooth (no USB, no Aux). Remember this is a basic WT truck. Before I go and spend a lot of time ripping CD's onto a big memory stick only to find I can't use it - can anybody smarter than me set me straight? Anybody else out there with a new 23/24 WT able to use one of their USB ports for audio even if Home/Audio screen doesn't show a USB device option?