Thatdude

Also, if anyone has recommendations for a trusted shop to do this work in the Dallas Fort Worth area please share

Dealership called last week to say truck has failed lifter(s). They would need to tear it down to see the full extent. Gave several possible repair options, two of which were repairs, and depends on if it’s just lifters or rods and camshaft, etc… 3rd option is a new engine. What is the likely hood they can accurately diagnose a failed lifter with out tear down? No engine codes, and my Blackbear tuner diagnostics only show a couple random misfires that never go beyond a counter of 1 but quickly go back to 0. truck has always had some sort of tick, but dealer while under warranty always said it was high pressure fuel pump and / or vacuum pump. fast forward to last week, son ran the truck down to almost empty, filled up with 93 octane, and about 20min after called me to say he can now hear a loud tick driving(now can be heard inside truck with windows up. im definitely not interested in repeating this with GM lifters/rods/cams just to have it fail again, nor do I want another GM with the AFM crap. Trying to decide if I roll the dice and have a local performance shop to the AFM/DOD Kit, with a chance there’s other damage like metal shavings from camshaft other other parts impacting bearings and such Other option is a Jasper remanned 6.2L with AFM/DOD delete. 13K installed but has 3 year 100K warranty. truck currently has a slow rear main seal leak, and was quoted in the past 1800-2400 dollars due to labor involved, so swapping engine would also solve this at no additional labor cost. i guess one other option is maybe a full rebuild with AFM/DOD delete, but reading this might be more with labor cost and less warranty thoughts/opinions?

I’ve asked the repair shop to try and take some measurements from the current wheel. Reached out to customwheeloffset and based on pictures, they are thinking 0 offset is what is probably on truck comparing some other trucks they have in there gallery. Also remembered I have to account for the knuckle lift that pushes the wheels out about an inch and a half by itself. hoping a member here has a similar setup and can comment on their wheel size and offset

Unfortunately I don’t have access to the wheel or vehicle. The shop doing repairs looked all over the back of the wheel and didn’t find anything

not the best pics but what I could find for now to give idea

First time poster…. Long time lurker I handed down my 2015 Silverado 1500 to my son last March, and it had a 7in RC Coilover/Shock Reservoir kit installed along with Bushwacker style pocket fender flares and 20in wheels with 35x12.50x20 wheels. The wheels sit pretty flush with the pocket fenders. unfortunately my son was hit by another vehicle in Oct and took out the front drivers side wheel and suspension. its been a nightmare with insurance but they are finally starting the repairs today. Outstanding issue is that my wheel cannot be sourced to match, and there are no indicators on the wheel to show backspacing or offset. insurance will only pay for one wheel, and I’m footing the bill for the other 3 anyone able to help me understand what backspace and offset I need to be looking at to get a similar flush look or maybe a .5in poke? Considering your typical wheel brand like Fuel, Method, etc… same tires will be used (Toyo 35x12.50x20). I would switch to 18’s but I literally bought new tires two weeks before the wreck. thanks in advance