Luckyfd1

Apparently the issue is the range selector. I checked the battery, replaced the starter (should’ve checked the neutral switch first). Has anyone had to replace this? Or do you know how it is mounted? In the 2018 and earlier the range selector is on the valve body, not too difficult to replace. On the 19 and up I haven’t been able to see exactly how it is attached. The part is completely different and I’m hoping I don’t need to take apart the transmission.

In my case…going from 3.23 - 4.56, could that 4.56 be too much for the truck to handle? When I originally put an inline tuner on the truck (either one) the truck drove great but at higher speeds the drive shaft RPM was too high. Meaning you can “trick” the ECM/TCM but there’s nothing you can do about the drive shaft spin… what I’m getting at is the tune can’t do anything about the drive shaft RPM it only makes the computer interpret it differently. The truck is now limited to a lower top speed??? 85 is the new 112… ? this was prior to the last tune that fixed my truck. I was curious why the inline models didn’t work. does that make sense?

So there’s a lot going on in that post. Forgive me if I’m taking you outta context… The calibrator will correct your speedometer issue. The larger tires will put strain on your trans. How much is up for debate. The calibration won’t do anything for the transmission. The PPE basically allows your fluid to flow to the cooler immediately rather than waiting for a certain temp to open the “valve”. Chevy has an ideal temp range of 175-200. IMO if your within that range your good. I can’t remember exactly but I believe Chevy recommends the transmission fluid be changed every 30,000 miles? And if I’m not mistaken, they actually recommend a flush. Again, a flush versus dropping the pan is up for debate. You’re not changing a filter and with a flush, you can actually dislodge particles that can get stuck in the transmission causing issue. You don’t want your transmission operating temperature to fall below that range. Not counting environmental factors. But regular operating temperature.

Lowering gears is misleading to most people. I’ve had gear changes where I felt like “why did I waste my money” but you’re totally right, the 8 and 10 speed with 35’s isn’t a real noticeable strain on the truck. However using the numbers it is extra wear on the trans. Putting it back to “stock” compensating for the tires is probably ideal for most people.

So I drive the truck for a while on 3.23 and with the exception of steep grades on the freeway the truck drove fine. On the grades it would bounce between 8-7 so Keeping it in L7 with gear selection was the answer. If I remember 3.73 or close to it was basically putting it back to stock. I’m gonna run 37’s so I went a little lower. 4.88 is what was most commonly recommended. I don’t drive the truck very often but when I do it’s mostly freeway and I didn’t want the RPM’s to be high… even with the 4.56 the truck drives amazing. Correcting the shift points is what the tune addresses. It shifts like normal.

8L90 8 speed, i’m not sure if I can be more specific. That’s all I really know.

The hyper-tech was extremely easy to use and corrected my speedo! Unfortunately didn’t correct the gears…

Absolutely. When I get the guy’s name or the company name that tuned to the truck I’ll post it on here. I want to be clear though. I’m not bashing Hyper Tech or edge products they just didn’t work for my specific application, which was the large jump in gears specifically the 4.56. I know from what I’ve been told the Hyper Tech and the edge work phenomenal for 3.73. And I was told by Hyper Tech that there’s works up to 4.10. The ease of installation for those products is something else. Very easy to install and I’m sure both are very great products.

Does this kit come with UCA’s?

I have a 35x12.5x18 in my stock spare spot, fits perfect. sorry I didn’t notice the wheel hub is solid? If it’s not it will fit.

That’s a good deal. 1/2 off almost! my house is kinda like the federal government. I get a certain amount to spend every year, if I don’t spend it, I won’t get as much the next year. I’m at the end of the fiscal year so I’m dumping money!

Come on vacation leave on probation that’s the Vegas motto besides bad decisions, make better stories!

Thanks! I will ask the guy and post it on here. So I didn’t have him delete anything or change anything except for the tire size and the gear modification. The truck is getting a Whipple, long tube, and DOD delete kit, larger cam. So we’re gonna have to tune the truck after these parts are installed. But as of right now, I can’t tell you how amazing the gear change is. For those who have changed gears before sometimes it feels like it didn’t change anything at all… I still have really good RPMs on the freeway and it just wants to pull the tires off on the surface streets.

Yes, I wasn’t very specific. lol. ECM/TCM. He was able to unlock both from his laptop. Which I thought was odd because all the ECM and TCM tunes you buy online you have to get to those units to unlock them, but I guess there’s other ways. IDK?

Quick introduction: I have a 2019 Chevy Silverado LT. The truck has Camburg UCA’s., King IBP 3.0 coil over front shocks, King IBP 3.0 rear shocks. Deaver leafs springs, 35” BFG, amp electric steps, and quite a few other additions to the truck. I wanted to post about my recent experience with re-gearing my truck. Hopefully this will help somebody somewhere because the information that I tried to find is extremely limited. My gear ratio was 3.23 and I went to 4.56. The company that installed the gears originally put a Hyper-Tech in-line speedometer and gear calibrator on the truck. It worked fantastic driving around town, but once I broke the gears in, I started driving and on the freeway. While on the freeway doing 79 mph I got a notification on the dash that stated truck is governed at 92 miles an hour. Then the throttle was dead (governed) Keep in mind my speedometer was dead on with GPS. I spoke with Hyper-Tech about this and they stated it’s potentially too big of a gear change. They only know of the in-line calibration working up to 4.10 gears. (That is not confirmed). Something in the rear end wasn’t talking with the computer in the front end so I bought an edge pulsar LT in-line calibrator thinking that that would work better. I ran into the exact same problem except the governor was now set at 112 MPH (which is the stock setting on that truck). But at 85 miles an hour my driveshaft felt like it was going to detonate. Basically the rear end was turning the driveshaft RPMs as if it was doing 112 mph. I finally found a company that re-geared a 2019 Chevy Silverado with 4.56 gears and they ran into the exact same issue. The way they ended up fixing it was the truck had to be tuned not performance tuned just tuned so it accepts the new gears. I’ve been dealing with this problem for about a month now and I finally caught a break two days ago and received that information and had the truck tuned and it drives absolutely perfect shift. Perfect. Everything is like stock. Hopefully this helps somebody looking for some information. I don’t know if this applies to 2022.5 and up I just know specifically it applies to 2019 through 2022 pre-refresh.