fsrtwo

Thanks, Good advice from both of you!

I just changed my front calipers (bleed screws rusted). My brakes still feel spongy. I did the typical brake bleed on all four corners starting with the farthest. I do not see any air in the bleed process. I did the 2 person pump the brakes 3 times method. Then I went back through and did a gravity bleed, still no help For an ABS bleed, does the "pull the ABS fuse(s) process" work on this series of truck? I really do not want to buy an bi-directional scan tool. I have also read about slamming on the brakes or put it in 4wd. Most of these comments were on a older series though, GMT-800. My next step is to do the manual bleed again. I thought I would see what to do next step is if that doesn't help. I do have and older bleeder pump, but didn't have the correct cap for my master. Maybe I should rig something so I can use it on the next round. Thanks

I was doing some maintenance on the rear diff today. The spare tire hoist seized, took out the grinder to remove it. I am in need of a new one. The GM version is too much $$$ ($200) . What brand is everybody using as a replacement. I saw a Dorman ($150) on Amazon, it still seems too expensive. Has anybody used this one? https://www.amazon.com/FEXON-Assembly-1999-2018-Chevrolet-Silverado/dp/B07TRCDDRF/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Looks like a Rivet Nut is the best option. Going to take a look at this when the holidays are over. Thanks!

I can get a picture in the morning. Its the rear bolt, driver side. I haven't ever played with a Heli coil. I was dark when I finished couldn't tell if there was enough inside the frame for a Heli coil.

I did some Diff maintenance today on my 2011 Silverado. One of the bolt wouldn't grab any threads on the frame. Any suggestions on how to tackle this problem?