I finally figured it out. The numbers were not stable because the audio headunit freezes up when it’s cold and won’t come on until truck warms up. The numbers ran up to around 2.5 amps and stayed there. And I got it to go down by unplugging my old aux. audio plug interface. I’ve had that audio interface for years and apparently it’s gone bad now. The bad part is now I have no way to connect my phone for music streaming! I guess I’ll look into an aftermarket headunit.
That’s why I’m stumped.
Here is my luck the past couple years with batteries. I have kept records on it. 5 batteries ago I had one that lasted 3 years. I replaced it with a 5 year Duralast Gold from autozone and it lasted for 12 months, I got it replaced under warranty and that battery lasted 6 months then tested bad. Then I went to Walmart and got the premium 5 yr everlast and it lasted 17 months, and tested bad, they replaced it under warranty and 2 months later trucks sits for a couple days and goes dead again. This battery is still ok but I think the draw is wearing them out. I do normally drive the truck everyday but this going through batteries is a pain, and even more so when it sits for 2-3 days and runs the battery down.
After taking my key out and latching the doors I left it for about 45 minutes with the batt hooked up normal to try and be sure it was all shut down. Then I just removed the negative terminal and patched in the multimeter. I would think reading at .02 no parasitic draw.
I tried to test for a parasitic draw today by clamping one side of my multimeter to the trucks negative battery cable and the other side to the negative battery terminal. The truck is fully shut down turned off and the door latches flipped so it thinks they are closed. The reading on the multimeter showed about 2.0 amps on the 10A setting for about 10-15 seconds (it was bouncing around that area) then it would start dropping down and by about 30 secs it showed .02 and stayed there. Every time I would disconnect and reconnect it would do the same thing. Is that just because connecting the leads sends the power through and powers something up or is this multimeter timing out after like 30 secs? That may sound like a dumb question but I am attaching a picture of the manual on the multimeter and this 15sec part has me confused. Anyone know what may be going on here? Because .02 is not even considered a problem right?
I’m not sure... I just thought since the front door has plastic raised block on it that contacts the lever on the back door that it would have to be in closed position. I will try just closing the front door latch and see if the headlamp goes out.
So I am about to try testing for the parasitic draw but I need the truck to think the doors are closed when they are actually open (so I can access the fuses and watch the multimeter). Does anyone have any ideas how to disable the plastic door switch on the ext.cab? It’s like a little plastic lever that is spring loaded and when the door is shut it’s pressed flat. I can’t think of a way to clamp it down because it’s on the inside edge of the ext. cab door.
Ok great info! Thanks man. Wish now the truck had Manual seat adjustments instead of power. Unplugging the seat would be the best option except it probably won’t let me change the seat position (I have to deal with kids car seats sometimes). I’ll play around with it and see what happens.
That sounds like a great way to fix it to me. This is probably a dumb question, I have very limited experience working on modern cars. Can someone tell me how I can trace down the correct fuse to pull?
Thanks I will have to look into this
Hi, I have an '04 silverado Z71 with heated leather seats and dual auto climate control. I have been having some battery trouble for a while. The truck is charging the battery perfectly but the batteries have not been lasting very long. I have known for a while not to let it sit for longer than two days without starting it or it may go dead. I just put a new battery on it a couple months ago and when the truck sat for about a week over the holidays it wouldn't even unlock the door or turn a light on when I came back to it. I charged the battery back up and it seems fine now but I would like to try and find out whats going on? Do you think it could be caused by locking the doors when I leave the truck? Because the little light showing the lock comes on the dash letting you know the security thing is enabled. Are there any simple tests with a voltameter I can do that might help me figure out whats going on? any info would be appreciated.
Hi, I have an "04 silverado 1500 Z71. Its the one with leather, heated seats, dual auto climate control and all the crap that gives you problems when the truck gets old (like it is now). Recently I have noticed I'll be driving and my back will be burning hot. I look over and the seat heater is on max! I can push the button on the door panel and it will go off. A few minutes later it will be on again. There seems to be no consistent pattern to how often it comes on but it is often enough that my seat barely has time to cool down and it will be back on again. Does anyone know whats going on here? is there an actuator or something in the seat that turns this on? Can I somehow pull and fuse or unwire it from the switch to stop it? I don't care if it works at all and will not miss it if I can just kill the seat heater all together.
I am thinking about installing a rough country level kit on my "04 silverado. Just the keys to re-index the t-bars. The difference in my application and most folks is that I don't want it as high as I can get it to accomodate bigger tires. I'm probably just going to keep my stock size wheel and tire so my speedo, performance, and best mpg will all stay the same. I'm just tired of the front drop look. I'm measuring 35 1/2" front fender to ground and 38 1/2 rear fender to ground. would like to see it level but no rear drop. My question is, if I install the new keys with the adjusting screw at the exact same position they are in now and the front is a bit too high how would I lower it? Just back them out an equal amount on each side? Another reason I am asking is because I figure if I raise it 1" or 1.5" I'll have a smoother ride and stand less chance of excess wear on front end parts than if it is raised 2"or 2.5". I know it will need an alignment afterwards. Just seems like it standing level would be a nice change.
thanks for the pics! I'm leaning towards taking them off.
The door moulding on my o4 silverado is a little faded and I'm torn weather or not I would like it better without them.
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