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Showing results for tags 'Coolant'.
Found 24 results
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I have a 2005 Sierra 1500. 5.3l Vortex. The coolant is milky like a strawberry milkshake. Oil looks good, trans fluid looks good. It keeps running hot and I don’t know what’s causing it. I don’t know what caused the coolant to become milky. Any ideas? I appreciate any assistance. I’m no mechanic.
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This truck is new to me and it needs the cooling system flushed and the coolant replaced. The owner's manual calls for coolant that meet "GM Specification 6038-M". That spec is no longer supported and it NLA. After some research, I thought I was doing the right thing by getting... Prestone Antifreeze/Coolant GM Vehicles Dex-Cool CONCENTRATE *5 Year/150K Mile Protection* 1 Gallon (Part # AF888) which I plan to dilute, of course. But, upon seeing the jug, it says it is orange and specified for '95 and later GM models. I am on the wrong track? If so, what should I be using?
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I got a 2006 Tahoe that needed an engine. found a remanufactured (z code engine) had installed with new water pump, radiator and thermostat ( have replaced 3 times with factory 187 degree stat). Now the engine runs about 165 to 175 on the road. When idling it will get up to about 210 and will stay there all day idling fans turning on and off working normally. But when I drive temp drops back down to 165-175. Has anybody sean this and know what the issue might be? I’m checking coolant temperature with ODBII scanner and gage. -
Hello, I have a 1997 Chevy C2500 5.7 and I’m having some cooling issues. I recently did a top off of the fluids and changed the oil, we also replaced the coolant with new 50/50. The overflow tank is always completely empty after being driven for even long periods. After checking the coolant in the radiator we realized that it had gone down too. From what I have checked (and I’ve checked everywhere) there are no leaks. There’s no oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, the top radiator hose is always hot but the bottom is always cold. I don’t know if that has anything to do with it but I thought it was worth mentioning. When filling the radiator back up with water I also noticed it bubbling while it was going down, is it possible there is an Air pocket? It’s important to note that the truck doesn’t overheat, or should I say it hasn’t yet. Even after taking it on a long road trip. Any reason why my coolant keeps going down and not back into my overflow? Thank you for any help! -
I was at the dealer the other day getting a tire replaced and I noticed I needed a coolant flush as its been 5 years and no previous one. When I got home I checked the reservoir and it was grossly overfilled. I doubt there's room for 7oz of expansion in it. I know sometimes this happens because it needs to burp out some air so I've driven it a couple of times but it hasn't gone down yet. I've got one of these coming tomorrow to suck the excess out if it hasn't gone down tomorrow but wondering if anyone knows about burping these or how to remove air. There doesn't appear to be a radiator cap which is likely why the reserve tank is pressurized. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CP8R9MS Since these are pressurized reservoirs, it seems that a grossly overfilled can cause damage as there's nowhere for the pressure to go except the weakest link which is likely a hose or fitting. My question is do these heater cores have a valve or is coolant running to them constantly? It is dead summer and I want to avoid heat on full to see if it clears out if I can. Also judging by design, it seems like it would naturally burp itself fairly quickly. Before the flush my needle almost always stayed constant at 210 when warmed up, now it seems to fluctuate between the 197.5 mark and 210 which leads me to think either there's still air in there or the overfill is causing excessive pressure that is altering the temp.
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Want to drain and fill my coolant, wondering how much the radiator holds? I know specs say the cooling system is 16.6 quarts, but how much will come out of a drain so I have enough on hand? Also, I am assuming DexCool from dealer is concentrate and not pre mixed right? How do you guys mix to ensure 50/50? Do you mix into a spare bottle or something first? Thanks!
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I replaced thermostats on my 2013 3500 HD duramax and couldn't fig out what appeared to be a shrader valve connected to coolant line anyone know what this is for?
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Hello I'm about to do a cooling system flush and radiator change on my 2003 Sierra 5.3 1500 "T" engine. I was wondering if I could use the HOAT blue Mitsubishi coolant instead of the dexcool. A friend of mine works in a dealership, and he offered a pretty good price on them, and I've been asking around about it and most said that this coolant is the best when it comes to additives. But I'm skeptical about using a totally different coolant in a Chevy, as most people I know use either the orange dexcool or the green stuff. That, and a lot of people hate on dexcool for some reason. What do you guys think?
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So my new '18 Sierra Denali with 6.2 has a small coolant leak somewhere. I noticed it this morning on my garage floor - just a few drops. I slid under and looked around but couldn't find anything (was heading to work so couldn't spend to much time) so over lunch I stopped my the local dealer. They put it on the rack and couldn't find a thing either - ended up putting dye in it and said to drive it for a week or so and stop back to have it checked again. Just curious if anyone has any typical culprits for where it may be leaking so I can give it a once over myself when I have more time. Kinda bummed I'm dealing with this at 2700ish miles. Thanks.
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So I'll make this topic as detailed and informative as I possibly can because I'm running out of options here. Video of the issue is included. I did a coolant and radiator flush on my '03 Sierra 5.3 to change the coolant from green ACDelco to orange Prestone. All the old coolant was flushed out of the engine and in with the new. The radiator was bled properly. After driving around for a while, I noticed my temp gauge starting to rise just above midway on the highway, and I can hear the fans kicking on high (did an electric fans swap). I didn't think much of it, but then it refused to cool down even though both the fans and the outside air are blasting through the radiator, and I know that the radiator is clean because there was no corrosion on the inside or outer debris blocking the airflow. I took it back to the shop, reflushed it, bought a new OEM thermostat, nothing helped. As a last resort, I did the following things to make sure everything is working correctly, and I'll mention some notes: *Thermostat has been replaced *Coolant was changed back to green 50/50 ACDelco, which faired a bit better than the orange Prestone. *Changed the temp sensor and its wiring *Bought a new fan harness from Nelson Performance because the old one got busted from how long the fans were running on high. *Radiator hoses were inspected, nothing is cracked or kinked. *Oil is not milky, nor getting smoke from the exhaust, and I'm not losing coolant, so no head gasket issues. *Car was running fine before the flush. *The car isn't drastically overheating, but there's no reason for the temperature to rise on or above midway when I'm cruising down the highway, and this will make the fans and the harness run harder. *This only happens after I push on the gas or the engine is underload such as cruising on the highway. *Sometimes when the car is idling, it takes awhile for the low fans to turn off, as in, it is cooling down slower than usual. The only two things that are left to suspect are the water pump (not leaking or making noise though), and that there is an air pocket trapped in the engine, and I'd appreciate if someone tells me how to check if there is one. If this behavior is normal, which I'm sure it isn't, please let me know. Here's the video. When the temp begins to rise I'm cruising around 55mph, and only cooled down when I came to a stop and slowly took off again. https://youtu.be/J5jeolKdtc8
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I did a coolant flush on my 5.3 '03 Sierra and changed the fluid from green to Prestone orange coolant. I had mild overheating issues prior to the flush, so I figured flushing the coolant and changing to orange Prestone might help (I did the same exact thing in my '04 GTO with LS1 and haven't had overheating issues since forever). Now the temp always goes above midway, and here's the thing... It does the same thing even on the HIGHWAY with fans on high speed, and it sometimes goes down in traffic only (basically when I'm not giving the engine any acceleration). I changed the coolant again with dexcool, and did an air bleed, changed the temp sensor and thermostat two months ago, and cannot see any leak from the pump but still nothing is helping. I'll note that the green coolant didn't look dirty when it I flushed it out, and that it only heats up when I'm accelerating.
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99 Silverado with 220k miles with low coolant light turning on after 30mins drive typically. First tried cleaning reservoir because the sensor is built in, but did not help. Then bought new reservoir that includes sensor and that didn't help either. The reservoir is correctly filled to FULL mark and always is. Oil change just done by me and isn't milky so there's no coolant mixing in. Last coolant flush was at 170k with the pink stuff so I'm good there too. Is there another sensor n the radiator maybe? Or could this just be a grounding issue? Thanks for any advice.
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Hey guys, It been few years now maintaining it... I have 2005 sierra 1500 z71 5.3L extended cab... I gotten it at 80,000 and now it at 182k, i have since replaced the alternator, water pump, coolant hose, flush the tranmission fluids, and now i noticed now it be getting hot while im idling and the oil pressure gauge will be low but when i am driving the oil pressure gauge goes back to middle and the coolant temp will go back to the middle instead being hot... it happen when im going through a stop like a traffic jam... it wouldnt last 5min without getting low oil pressure(although no alarm light) and high engine coolant temp (coolant warning light came on) reaching... i been racking my brain trying to figure it out what could it be... it same thing all over again, driving normal then come to a stop, a long stop then my oil pressure will dip low and then engine coolant will dip pass the 210 mark and get hot til if i am idle long enough it will flash coolant light on... i open the hood check the engine, hoses, coolant level is good, fan blowing, but still getting hot with no leaks or steams... i really love my truck i really need to resolve this asap... pls help??? G30 -
Good afternoon all, I'll try to make this short and sweet so here's the deal: 1) Gauge Coolant Temp wont respond. 2) I have done the necessary test with the coolant SENDING unit. (Ground out to see if it pegs hot) 3) Used Voltmeter to check for signal to sensor which it has. 4) Checked Fuses. All are good. 5) Rest of gauges work. And here's where I'm stuck. Apparently the 1995's don't use stepper motors? (I haven't taken the cluster apart yet) But if they do, I cant find the right ones. Seem to be for 1996 or 1997 and up models. This cluster does not have a conventional pigtail that plugs into it but rather the cluster "sinks" into the adapter. The circuit board is flexible. Does anyone have any info on this type of cluster? If its a simple stepper motor or resistor I can fix it. (I think, lol) However, rather than replace with a refurbished or used one where the mileage will not be correct I'd rather upgrade to a digital cluster if possible or even swap in a later model chevy cluster. Anyone know if this is possible? One thing ive found out with the 95's is that it isn't very compatible with other models. Please ask any questions that you may have. I look forward to your responses! -
about a year ago we had a warm winter. My truck would overheat every once in a while and I would pull on over and let it cool. Here is my question: Are there any plastic parts in the coolant system that could have melted just perfectly to spit out coolant 1) every once in a great while 2) about half a quart all at once when it does 3) when it does spit out coolant, it spits it in such a way to allow it to get none on the belt, but all over the front end stuff thats between the road and the middle of the engine (verticle) and between the engine and the cooling fan (horizontal) I have recently topped it off. Only the reservoir goes empty. It will stay topped for quite some time (months) Sometimes there is no smell of coolant, while other times one can strongly smell it in the cab. One time I had parked the truck and while I was walking away from it I heard the sound of a dog, a really big dog, pissing itself. turned around, saw coolant on the ground, smelled coolant from my truck, and found that it had spat out a mouthful of coolant! That has happened one other time this year. I fear that times when I am on the road and it happens, it burns up before I can find where it is coming from. It is funny that only the res goes empty though. Happy Hannakah!
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99 4.3 c1500 leaking coolant and smells like burning coolant. Sears didn't think it ws a big deal. Local mechanic wanted 100 parts and $450 in labor. They didn't know where leak was exactly. I looked for leak and initially couldn't find any. But coolant was everywhere underneath. Drove to work no problem driving back my "coolant low" displayed then the "Trans Fluid Hot" was displayed. I pulled over asap and let cool 2 hours, checked the transmission fluid and it was light brown. Then drove home. Looking at this weekend saw same coolant on bottom of engine, oil pan, and transmission pan (gravity right?) On top hidden on the in a groove was a small collection of coolant. Do i remove all hoses and valves to check intake manifold gasket or use stop-leak products like Prestones flush/cleaner, engine block stopleak, or other stop leaks (i found some at autozone and some Wal-Marts)??
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Low coolant light keeps coming on?
Robin Whitworth Statzer posted a question in Ask the GM Technician
Our 2001 Tahoe has a low coolant light that keeps coming on. We just had the head gaskets done, the radiator is only 2 years old (it's the 3rd one) and we just put in a new coolant reservoir. Any ideas why this keeps happening? We top off the reservoir and the light will stay off for a few weeks, but eventually comes back on. TIA! -
I have a 2001 gmc sierra 1500 and i can smell coolant leaking and found a small drip on the ground this morning. Its been extremely cold the last two weeks and thats when ive started having some issues. I can see some coolant on the bottom of the A/C compressor bracket which is where the drip is coming from. Cant seem to find where its starting at just can see the compressor bracket being wet. Any ideas on where above that ac bracket the leak could be coming from???
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After I parked the truck last week the fan stayed on quite a bit longer than normal after the truck was off, I didn't think a whole lot of it at the time, but a couple days ago I got a "over temperature idle engine" warning on the DIC and watched the temperature go back and forth from dead center to max a couple times. Looked at the reservoir and there was no coolant visible at all. Ran to the store in our other vehicle and bought 2 gallons of coolant. It took the full first jug and a bit from the second to bring it up to the full cold mark. I couldn't see anywhere it would be leaking from - and I've had no pool on the driveway - but there was a definite coolant smell in the engine bay. The only thing I noticed was the visible corner of the rad that you can see (driver side) there was white residue along the top edge, not 100% sure if this is coolant or not but I suspect it may be. Have an appointment for the Onstar module replacement (2G to 4G) next week so will ask them to look into it then, until then I'll keep checking and topping it off.
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I have a Silverado 2500 6L WT. I put some green antifreeze in the reservoir and found out that it is bad to mix the green antifreeze with dexcool and thus needed to flush my coolant. I then did a coolant flush with only dexcool to get the green antifreeze out of my truck. All I did was drain the dexcool from the radiator hose, refilled the reservoir with water, ran the water through the engine, and then drained the dexcool from the radiator hose again. All in all, I drained the dexcool from the radiator hose three times (three intervals of flushing water through the engine). I DID NOT remove the drain plug to remove the dexcool from the bottom of the engine block. Did I get all of the green antifreeze out without removing the drain plug or do I need to do another coolant flush?
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Picked up a super low mileage (45k) 2001, standard cab, V6. Of course there is a catch (at least hoping not that horrible of a catch)...Has some typical rust issues I am not worried about but...Low coolant and some white smoke at start up. Topped off coolant, after driving no smoke....Next day at start up, light amount of white smoke. Checked the Oil cap and dip stick, no milkshake...But, can smell coolant from outside vehicle after the drive and no leaks below. Otherwise runs fine. With research I have read everything from head gasket, intake manifold, water pump, cracked block ,etc.... Any guesses with a low mileage truck used as a yard truck (keeping the miles low)? Appreciate any insight or guidance on what to check. Thanks! -
Hi, I have a 2000 GMC Sierra with a 5.3L. Last year the temperature gauge on the truck started to read a high temperature, I changed the thermostat and topped up coolant and never had the problem again. Until recently, the gauge started to read high again (not overheating though). I'm finding that at low speeds (40km/h and below) the temperature reads normal. As I got higher (up to 90km/h) the temperature starts to raise from 95-115. then cools right down when I come to a complete stop. Now the weird part of it is that whn I go on the highway the temperature will rise as i accelerate onto the highway, then after a couple minutes over 100km/h, the temperature falls right back down to normal. Then when I come off the highway, slowing down to anything under 80km/h the temperature rises again. Why could this be? Thermostat? Waterpump? Coolant? Cursed? I'm lost..
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I have electric fans on a 06’ Sierra 6.0. Twice in the last 2 months (or so) I’ve had them not turn-on when they should have been on. I happened to notice because I could smell it running a little hot and my temp gauge was all the way to 210-ish. I switched on the heat to help dissipate the extra heat. When I started the truck up a few minutes later the fans turned on and all was well. (not that it should matter but I was at 8-9K ft. both times. I know this impacts the coolants’ properties but I wouldn’t think it would have any impact on the fans themselves) The only work that’s been done on the truck lately was some fluid flushes including the coolant. Seems unlikely that this would be related but thought I would mention it. Prior to me realizing it was the fans, I tested the coolant to ensure that the dealer put the right mixture in and it tested fine. The first time this happened I thought maybe they disconnected the fans during the flush process but verified that the connectors looked fine and since the fans have been running since, I ruled that out. What do I need to check next? Seems odd to me that its intermittent. Seems like it’s a sensor type issue of some sort but that doesn’t quite click for me since the gauge is reading fine. Could the thermostat be acting up? I couldn’t quite wrap my head around how that would influence the fans…. Let me know what y’all think I need to check next. Much appreciated! Sam
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Hi folks new to the site if I'm misposted please let me know and I'll try again. So to start with I'm running a '91 chevy suburban 2500 4x4 with the 350 motor. The problems I'm encountering are a follows, with descriptions. 1. I have a coolant leak but I'm not sure where it is coming from, I notice the coolant around my starter, but no problems with the starter itself. Also that is the only place I have seen the fluid. 2. My transmission leaks like a siv I have replaced the pan gasket and filter but to no avail. I notice the fluid everywhere around the trans on the cross member down the frame rails. That's about it for my leaks. And lastly 3. My steering wheel is upside down! How do I fix that? My alignment sit 180* out but the wheel is. Any help on any of my problems would be greatly appreciated thank you all.
