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Found 8 results

  1. 2020 Sierra 1500 SLT After searching and reading through many threads without the specific answers I'm looking for, I'm hoping for some information and advice. I'd like to have 1 )the fog-lights come on with the parking lights, so the fog-lights are on all the time (even staying on with high beams if possible) 2) the Cargo Lamps illuminate when the truck is in Reverse. I'd like to know what plug/pin number to jump with the diode and what size diode/direction the diode goes (which way the stripe faces). Bonus points for photos (see below) I found this photo in a 2014 - 2018 GMC thread. The thread said the brown to pink is the cargo-reverse light mod and the brown to brown was the parking lights-fog lights mod. Are the plugs/wires/diode direction the same for the 2020? Is the 1Amp D1 diode the right one for these mods? Is the diode just pushed into the back of the plug, alongside the wire? I'd appreciate any help that can be provided. Please be sure to dumb it down for me and any other future searchers. I know I need all the help I can get!! Thank you for your time, DC
  2. 2020 Sierra 1500 SLT After searching and reading through many threads without the specific answers I'm looking for, I'm hoping for some advice and information. I'd like to have 1 )the fog-lights come on with the parking lights, so the fog-lights are on all the time (even staying on with high beams if possible) 2) the Cargo Lamps illuminate when the truck is in Reverse. I'd like to know what plug/pin number to jump with the diode and what size diode/direction the diode goes (which way the stripe faces). Bonus points for photos (see below) I found this photo in a 2014 - 2018 GMC thread. The thread said the brown to pink is the cargo-reverse light mod and the brown to brown was the parking lights-fog lights mod. Are the plugs/wires/diode direction the same for the 2020? Is the 1Amp D1 diode the right one for these mods? I'd appreciate any help that can be provided. Please be sure to dumb it down for me and any other future searchers. I know I need all the help I can get!! Thank you for your time, DC
  3. I have a 2015 silverado from Canada I bought headlight covers and tail light covers for the truck not realizing that the lights stay on all the time while in drive is there a way to disable the drls while in gear.. doesn't look very good with lights on under the covers.. no drl relay that I could find
  4. This requires the use of a relay harness (which I recommend anyway) and a 4700uF capacitor Ok, When DRL's are active, you car is supplying the following signal to your driving lights: _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ +12v _________________ Ground That's Correct, it 'Pulses' the current to lower the intensity of the light. This works perfectly for Filament bulbs, as you are simply heating a filament which produces the light. But when sent to the relay, it will cause the relay to latch and unlatch repeatedly which will cause flicker. HID's however, need a constant current flow to them, such as the following: _________________ +12v _________________ Ground Now, most people are over complicating things, by making the Fog's DRLs and such, but I don't want to fiddle around with the lights everytime I get in the car, so this is what needs to be done to be able to keep the Auto function of the headlights. We will, by the use of capacitors, turn the DRL's Pulsing current -_-_-_ into a smooth, constant flow -------- So, we aren't relocating the DRL's, we are simply going to use HID's as DRL's AND Driving lights. Perfect! This is exactly how most Audi's and BMW's function anyways. So, here is the miracle solution: Using a 4700uF (That's microfarad) capacitor (A pair should run you 4-5 bucks at most) we are smoothing out the Pulses and sending a constant supply to the Relay. This is called a smoothing or reservoir capacitor. What it does, is on a Positive pulse, it charges, and in between pulses it slowly discharges. The bigger the capacitor, the slower the discharge: Without Capacitor: With Capacitor: We can see after the capacitor, we have an almost linear voltage. How do we make this as linear as possible? By using a capacitor as big as the 4700uF. This keeps the relay latched so that it doesn't interrupt the current flow to the ballast.I do NOT recommended using this without a relay, you shouldn't put this in parallel with the ballast itself. And for when the driving lights go on, the constant +12v will simply keep the capacitor charged and this won't affect system performance as it basically will stay there fully charged until it can discharge. And when you cut power to the light, the capacitor will discharge quickly enough as to not allow the relay to flicker. The ballast see's it as the current beeing shutoff and not a pulsing current. So, all you need to do, it simply splice a capacitor between the +12V and GROUND wire leading to the Latching relay, such as my diagram below shows: Enjoy! Credit to mtlsportgt on mazda3forums.com
  5. alright, so if you want to do just a retrofit, just some halos, or just want to know how to make your headlights look 100x's cooler then stop searching cause you found the right thread! to start, heres what the end result will be: next, heres the materials you will need: from LED Concepts: Halos: http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/halo-kits/products/halo-headlight-kit-2014-2015-gmc-sierra?variant=878304651 Controller (you'll need 2 if you want to be able to control the halos separately from the DRLs, IMO, it increases the wow factor when you can do them separately): http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/remotes/products/colormorph-bluetooth-music-controller Extension wire so you can have the controllers in a much safer environment. I wanted to mount mine in the cab as I don't trust many things in the long term out in Louisiana weather: http://ledconceptslighting.com/products/colormorph-extension-wire-10-feet I am almost certain that the bluetooth controllers each come with a 4 way splitter but just incase http://ledconceptslighting.com/collections/led-components-1/products/colormorph-4-1-splitter Fastheadlights: FXR adapter plate only (for those who want to order their FXR projectors and HIDs from TRS themselves so that you can customize what you get): http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=buy%5Ffxr%2Dadapter%2Dkit%2Donly For those who want to just order everything for the retrofit, Phil has simplified it http://www.fastheadlights.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=fxr%5Fretrofit%2Dkit TheRetrofitSource FXR projectors and HIDs (50W 4.5K matches OEM DRLs perfectly, also be sure to get the 3" LHD lens, you can do this with the 2.5" if you rather, but the 3.0 fits like a glove) http://www.theretrofitsource.com/complete-retrofit-kits/bi-xenon-fx-r-stage-iii-kit.html#.VScPXkI-CDU http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-amp-d2s-ballast-adapters-straight.html#.VScQjkI-CDU http://www.theretrofitsource.com/accessories/morimoto-retrorubber-butyl-glue-50245.html#.VScQrUI-CDU And the tools and extra items you will need: Dremel w/ cut off wheel heat gun 3.5mm, 5.0mm, and 7.0mm heat shrink (you can get a pack from Harbor Freight for around $3 and you'll have some left over) patience couple towel to lay the lens down on microfiber towel and glass cleaner (I recommend and love "perfect glass") lens tinting spray and clear coat of your choice air compressor to assist with clean up 3M double sided tape scissors HID harness to cut up (or you can make your own connections and such, I got lucky and had an old harness lying around) I want to apologize in advance, I did the first headlight and took pics of several steps and then when doing the second headlight, I realized I didn't take pics of some things that would be helpful for the write up and so I switch from one headlight to the other in some pics AND FINALLY THE PROCESS!!! After you remove the headlights from the truck, you will want to set yourself up in a comfortable work station, lay your headlight down on its back and get your dremel ready cause its time to cut the lens off. Thankfully Phil at FasHeadlights created a video that shows where you'll need to cut After you cut it open, heres what it'll look like Since the chrome bezel is connected to the clear lens, you will want to undo the 2 screws at the bottom so that you can clean out behind the lens and the chrome. Also you will want to trim down the black tabs that are holding the amber pieces in place so that you can clear the lights, or smoke them like I did. I used VHT nightshades. Wanted to use Rustoleum lens tint but no one around here had it in stock (of all the Rustoleum products that Home Depot sells, of course the only thing they don't have in stock is the lens tint From there, you will want to go ahead and remove the chrome reflector cup for the turn signal and the DRL strips so that you can more easily remove the OEM projector you will want to pull on the black plastic around the projector to remove it from the housing, I personally used a rubber mallet and a metal push rod thing that I found lying around in my garage. I held the plastic connected to the projector, placed the rod with one end on the white tabs and used the mallet to knock the white tabs out since that is how the projector and its mount plate are held in. Once you have that free, you can unbolt the OEM projector from the plate and using the FXR adapter kit from Phil, you will want to put your FXR to the adapter plate and then after it is mounted to the adapter plate, then you will want to connect the adapter plate to the mounting plate. Before putting the adapter plate to the mounting plate, you will have to cut off the mounting posts from the OEM projector I apologize that I did not get any pics of the back of the mounting plate or cutting off the mount tabs, but it is a self expiatory process at this point thanks to the plates that Phil made (hadn't finished mounting the FXR to the adapter plate yet) Next you will want to hook up the high beam shutter. The 2 red wires coming from the FXR projector are not polar sprcific, so you can just stick them into the OEM connectors for the high beam. I used the 5MM Heatsink to barely slide over the OEM connector and then the 3.5MM connector to just seal the other heatsink to the wire so that it will hold stronger. Overkill? Maybe, but peace of mind that it should never have an issue is priceless, especially since I never want to reopen this light again haha. After you check to make sure everything is mounted securely, you can reinstall and now you are finished with the retrofit! If you are using this write up just for the retrofit, you can skip to the end to read about how to seal it (PS, it just finished raining pretty hard just now and I went out to check, no moisture! I'm extremely happy about that!) After seal up I'll show how I ran my harness. I am now realizing I don't have wires showing how all the wires are run but I will get some and add them when I can Now to the halos and DRL mods After the projects are in place, just stick your halos to the projector, next step is to drill a "mail slot" hole to run your wires through Before you put the DRLs back in so that you can put in the LED strips, you will want to drill a small "mail slot" looking hole in the housing so that you can fish the wires through to the outside. I put the hole at the bottom of the housing so that I could keep the wires hidden after everything is back together on the truck. bad picture but its the only one I have of the hole I cut Take your 3M DS tape and scissors and line the inboard side of the headlight with a trail of tape so that you can stick the wires from the color changing strips to it so they aren't moving around when driving. btw, the picture shows the bottom inboard corner of the headlight (this is on the driver side headlight) after the hole is made and the 3M tape is in place then you will want to reinstall the OEM DRLs and put in the color change strips. Prep the color change strips to go in, you will want to cut off 9 LEDs from the strips that are going into the top DRL so that they will fit perfectly. Heres how the LED strips should be placed and the wires run after the LEDs are in place and the wires are run, you will put all the wires through your mail slot, and then use some of the rubber butyl to seal the hole from the inside and out. Just play with the butyl for about 10 seconds and then mash it around the wires. Make sure that you get the butyl all up on the housing and all throughout the wires so that it won't allow moisture to get through, do this on both the inside and outside to be sure that it is sealed MAKE SURE THAT YOU HAVE ALL THE WIRE THAT YOU NEED ALREADY THROUGH THE HOLE BECAUSE ONCE THE BUTYL IS IN PLACE, THE LAST THING YOU WANT TO HAVE TO DO IS REMOVE IT so that you can move the wires okay so now that you have everything done inside of the headlight that you could need to do, its time to seal it back up! SEALING okay so to seal the headlight back up. I went ahead and just put a line of the Butyl Rubber around the lip of the headlight, then used the heat gun to warm up the butyl so that when I pressed the lens back down, it would more easily smash down and get up all up in any openings. I did not stretch out the butyl much. I wanted a nice thick amount of butyl to help maximize the chances of sealing the headlight 100% I didn't get a picture of this but should have, I apologize for that After heating the butyl, I placed the lenses back in place and called it a night The next morning, I went out and took the headlights out of my garage and sat them in the sun and rolled my truck under a EZ-Up canopy so that I could start running the wire harness for the HIDs I made sure to leave the headlights in the direct sun so that the butyl could warm up again and probably a bit more effectively than it did by running the heat gun over it. After they sat in the sun for around 2-2.5 hours since i was so occupied with the harness, I picked up the lights and smashed the edges of the lens down one more time to make sure that the butyl was all over and the headlights were sealed How I ran the harness The harness I had a good bit of fun with (sarcastic) cause I wanted it as hidden as possible. I went ahead and used a self tapping screw to mount the relays on the driver side directly opposite of the air box As you can see I ran the wires in the dead space on the sides of the engine bay. I extended the wire going to the battery and ran it over the engine with some of the OEM wires that go across the back wall, and connected to the battery. Then I ran the other wires that went to the other headlight inside of the bar that goes across the front end and is covered by the plastic cover that has GMC on it. Hides the wires really well. I had to make an extender for that side so that it would reach the ballast. I just cut off some of the connection on an old relay I had lying around to make the extension and so so modifications were made to the harness from TRS. The ballasts are 3M DS taped to the tops of the headlight housings The passenger side ballast has to be turned at an angle so it will fit on account of the air box being there to avoid having to make a after the relay is in place, then you can run the wires for the LED Concepts lights. The wires will be run form the bottoms of the headlights, up the side of the grille and then up underneath the metal bar, that way all the wires are completely hidden when the plastic cover goes on. Oh and the driver boxes for all the LEDs are hidden in the bar. They are all bolted into place Wires will go through the upper hole in this pic you'll have to notch out some of the plastic so that the wires will fit, you should only have to do that on the passenger side, the driver side is open boxes bolted in place now some of you are probably wondering about the OEM output, well one doesn't get used but how does it connect to the relay? Well I wanted to try not to have to make another hole in the headlight if I could avoid it, so I did! I made my own little connector that would plug into the harness and used a male quick disconnect and T-tap to tap into the low beam circuit on the truck harness that plugs into the back of the headlight. The wire that you will want to tap is the yellow wire on the harness, you will ground to one of the bolts near the harness and you can just plug into the harness the control boxes are mounted inside the cab, this is where the 10ft extensions come into place. The DRLs will all be hooked to a splitter which will have to be hardwired to the 10ft extension and then the wires will be run down the side of the engine bay, and then through to the driver side door jam where you can run the wires through the same hole where all of your wires for your electronics on the door run. Just pull the weather proofing boot off and then run the wires through and then put the boot back on. This will leave you with plenty of wire still in the cab so that your mounting locations can stay as plentiful as possible, but still limited Your RGB wires will follow the red line The control boxes pull power from the cig lighters under the infotainment system I hope this helps everyone out who is looking to do something similar. I searched for a long time but couldn't find any write ups about how to do all this work so I wanted to make it as informative as possible and hopefully I achieved that. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask or PM me. If you need more pics of anything, I can get them for you I also want to give a HUGE thanks to a few people for help that they have given me, I want to thank Dcarl for letting me know how to remove the OEM projector mounting plate, Johnny_KCCO and Stevencox93 for letting me know how they tinted lenses on their trucks, and Phil from Fastheadlights for making great products and helpful videos
  6. Hey guys, just installed the gmc headlights with the led DRLs in my 2500 gmc SLE, which didn't come stock with the lights with DRLs. So there is no wiring in the truck already to just plug and play with the DRLs. I did my own thing and wired the DRLs to come on with the truck however i don't know how to get the headlights to come off during the day on the new trucks. The old ones you could just pull a fuse but no dice on these ones. Anyone have any ideas how to keep the projectors off during the day?
  7. was looking to upgrade my headlights on my rig. my 2015 didn't come with the LED DRLs. Was looking to buy a set with the DRLs but can't find much online for part numbers or anything like that with the HDs. Only can find stuff on the half tons. Maybe the headlights for the half tons are the exact same as the heavy dutys.. Anybody?
  8. Didn't find this in a search... Wound up on Recon's site and came across these. For as much anticipation as there was, I figured they would have sent out more info about the release. They were buried in the "whats new" section. And yes, they are only out for the Silverado. They use smooth OLED halos and drls. They come with standard hologen bulbs (x4), H7 low and H1 high for upgrade. Anyway, here are the pics I could find, recon and ebay links and such: http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=668&pname=Part-264275CLC-Chevrolet-Silverado-14-15-3rd-GEN-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-w-Ultra-High-Power-Smooth-OLED-HALOS-DRL-Clear-Chrome http://www.gorecon.com/product.php?pk=669&pname=Part-264275BKC-Chevrolet-Silverado-14-15-3rd-GEN-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-w-Ultra-High-Power-Smooth-OLED-HALOS-DRL-Smoked and ebay: http://www.ebay.com/itm/RECON-14-15-Chevy-Silverado-NEW-Chrome-PROJECTOR-HEADLIGHTS-OLED-HALOS-DRL-SET-/161401896930?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Year%3A2014%7CMake%3AChevrolet%7CModel%3ASilverado+1500&hash=item25944d7fe2&vxp=mtr I was hoping they'd come in at the Anzo headlight price point. ** will add more photos and links as they come available to first post for ease **
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