Dirtautoguy

I recently converted my 96 k1500 to a electric fan. I used fans from a ford windstar and a hayden adjustable fan wiring harness. so far the fans seem to work great my only question is what would be a accurate/ efficiant temperature setting? I have a 195 thermostat and right now the little of the fans turns on at 198 and off at about 188 which even so it doesnt come on very often. I am thinking more like turn on at 205-210 and off around 195. what are your thoughts?? the bigger fan will come on 10 degrees about the set point of the smaller fan. thanks

holy crap bat man!! I thought I answered this. maybe it just didnt post I cant remember. I changed the case fluid and did the 2 seals I could get too. It is just a regular shift lever on the floor. and I used ATF in it nothing special. although looking back high mileage woul have been a good idea. another quick question. my dad has a GMC with the push button 4wd and sometimes it takes a minute for it to go into 4h. is that normal? I have heard that the hydrostatic ones take a minute but I thought his being a 98 it wouldnt have this. thanks!!

nevermind it does not stay locked in. I did add the napa premium ATF fluid that is supposed to be good for dexron 3 just to top it off and I still plan on changing it this week

I'm pretty sure that I have the NP241 transfer case in my 1996 k1500 with the 4l60e and 350 vortec. I checked the fluid in it the other day and it is low. the fluid that is in it is pink like tranny fluid so Im pretty sure thats what it takes is the dexron 3. however I know that dexron 3 has undergone some name changes and a few things in like 2007. but I have heard that dexron vI isnt good for the transfer case so in a way its a pretty simple question. what fluid do I need to replace it with? is there anything that would be better? I do have a quart of napa ATF fluid that I was going to use to top it off untill I could just change it this week. I would also like to put lucas oil stabilizer or tranny fix but I wanted to make sure that would be ok. it looks like it is leaking at the seals but its not leaking very bad yet. My last question is is the front driveline always supposed to turn?? because I think mine does. thanks for the help

after about 5 or 6 times on the rack it was still doing the same thing. they double checked all the suspension parts and they were all good too. finally the tech alligned it with the wheel just slightly off center to compensate for the over shooting toe issue. and the result was with the steering wheel straight the truck drives mostly straight but follows the curve of the road. ( if Im on the right side of the road and its slanted a good amount it wanders right some. and same with the left side) this is better than the truck has ever driven since I have owned it. I think that I will take it back in one of these days before my 30 day alignment runs out as a 30 day alignment cost me $90 is that normal? and if nothing else just double check it all. I am slightly suspicous as to why it would have to be aligned with the wheel off center?? mechanical or human? I asked for a pirintoff of the numbers but their printer just happen to be down but It is on file and I can go back and get it when their printer is working again. I have heard that a alignment specific shop is generally better than going to a tire/ mechanic/alignment shop is there truth to this Im just curious. the power steering does not have an electrical plug on it. thanks for the help!

I took it to get an allignment check and it was a little off. not terrible but off. so I went ahead and had them align it, after they got done a paid and headed out. and almost immediatly instead of going right with the steering wheel straight it went left. so less than a mile down the road I turned around and went back. they looked at it again and really took there time even though they closed. I watched both times. and after the second time it was the exact opposite it went right again with the steering wheel straight. we checked all the tie rods and pitman arm. nothing is loose we are both very confused and I have another appointment on friday. the only thing that I can come up with is that when I put the pitman arm back on it did not fit flush on the gear box however from my understanding the gear box is tapered so with shouldnt fit all the way is that correct? I tightened the piss out of it when I put it on though. anyone have any ideas?

this all has kind of happened over time so I will give as much info the best I can. I have a 1996 chevy k1500 with the 350 vortec, it has 230,000 miles on it right now and I bought it while I was in high school. it is my first car and I love it. before I graduated I got hit by a subaru on the driver side by a 80 year old lady that was speeding lol. anyway she hit the tire more than anything and because of time and knowledge I didnt have at the time I had a shop (owned by my cousin) fix it. ever since then it has had slop in the steering and pulled to the left. so I set on a quest to fix it. I replaced all the steering components ball joints inner and outer tie rods pitman and idler arm allignments none of these things fixed the issue. the allignment said it was all good other than the camber was just barely off on the driver side but not enough to worry about. the truck still pulled to the left so finally years later after being married and have learned alot I replaced the steering gear box and ps hoses. and the problem is fixed!!.... sort of..... now instead of pulling to the left it pulls to the right and the power steering feels like its turbo charged. the steering wheel turns super smooth and is super sensative. I felt my dads 98 k2500 and the steering as slightly stiffer but mostly the same so im guessing thats normal. so I guess in the end the question is do I need to go get it alligned again?? maybe because the gear box was messed up after the last allignement it is messed up now?? the truck has never wore tires out or wore them funny but I have brand new tires on it now and i dont want to start now. to keep it from pulling to the right I just have to hold it just barely to the left and it goes straight like an arrow. Oh and the steering does center after a turn I dont know if that makes any difference. thanks for the help

today I finally got the fuel sending unit replaced today. we lifted up the bed and used blocks of wood to hold it up. it took about 2 hours (including the time we took to go get a swived joint for the rear bolts by the hitch) and my gas gauge now works good again

I was told on another forum to try and ground the purple wire on top of the tank. if the gauge went to full they said that the gauge is working and that the sending unit is bad. So I tried it and it went to E not F so maybe thats what he meant to say. Im looking at new units. I would like to put an acdelco one in it but my wallet wont really allow that right now. so im looking at either a spectra or dorman brand. what are your thoughts?

well thats really good to know. but i havent ever replaced the sending unit and it worked fine untill we replaced the pump. i havent had time to look at it yet but im trying to get to it. ill post anything i find

A few years ago on my 1996 chevy k1500, my dad and I replaced the fuel pump in my truck. It certainly was a learning experience for both of us. we chose to just drop the tank down and do it that way. after we got it all put back together it all worked and it was good to go, however then the gas gage didnt work from half a tank up but it did work from half a tank down. So I figured hey I know when its out of gas right? and it worked that way for several years. untill recently when I put some gas in the tank and now the gas gauge is really freaking out. it bounces from straight down and fighting with the oil pressure gage which probably isnt good. to full to half. but soon as it gets below half a tank it stops freaking out but still doesnt seem accurate. my first thought is fuel sending unit. but i have done a lot of reading about it and heard anything from the instrument cluster to a ground or a bad sending unit or loose sending unit. I do remember when we pulld the tank we didnt know about the little ground wire that went from the tank to up on top of the frame and it seemse to me like we might have stressed it pretty bad what ground does that go to exactly? I plan on checking the grounds, wires first and i want to have the new part on hand if i have to drop the tank again so i dont have to do it twice. Is there anything else i should watch for or check?? thanks

well i never got the code back and for some reason its just fine now. if it gives me more problems i will look more into it and let you guys know, thanks for the help!

Hmmm ok. Would you just do the tcc solenoid? Or others too? It usually shifts up ok unless it's cold and once in a while when it's warm. But it has a hard time shifting down it seems like

1996 chevy k1500 4l60e The other morning when I got up to go to work I started my truck as usual and let it run for a minute or two before leaving. I noticed that my check engine light had come on very soon after starting the truck. I have a scan gauge two and it said that I had a p1860 code. I didn't have time to figure that out so I tried to clear it to see if it would go away. But it came right back almost instantly. So I left and noticed that my truck shifted quite hard and not normal. After driving a fe minutes the light was really bugging me so I cleared it again and it didn't come back and it started shifting normal. I haven't seen the code since and it doesn't shift nearly as hard any more. However it does seem to hesitate to shift down and sometimes shifting up once in a while. I'm pretty sure it's not slipping it will spin the tires pretty easy. The code apparently means that the circuit to the torque converter clutch pulse modulation solenoid is having problems or that the solenoid is. Does any one know more about this? It seems to have more issues shifting when it's cold. And the fluid looks good and doesn't smell burnt but it probably wouldn't hurt to change it. Thanks!

The slop I noticed was when the platform the rotor goes on comes up (I think for timing advance?) sorry I don't know alot about how it's built. I don't recall if the new one had this slop or not. I still have the old shaft maybe ill re examine it and see If i can remember or come up with more.