Jump to content

07sierra8.1

Member
  • Content Count

    92
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

8 Neutral

About 07sierra8.1

  • Rank
    Enthusiast
  • Birthday 07/04/1990

Profile Information

  • Name
    Array
  • Location
    Array
  • Gender
    Array

Contact Methods

  • Facebook
    Array
  1. Thank you. My father bought it used in 1988. Him and I restored it in 2001. When it was restored, you were still able to get OEM body parts from GM. Currently the only body parts on it that are not GM are the cab corners and Rockers since to get those in original GM, he would have had to buy the whole door opening of the cab. The aftermarket rockers are the only thing that rotted back out. Everything else is solid. He handed the truck down to me in 2012. I am slowly going through and restoring things over again since it has pretty much sat outside since it was restored.
  2. Hello all, I am working on putting my 1986 K20 back together. I pulled the motor out to change the clutch and refinish the frame rails in the front. The engine was rebuilt back in the early 2000s, however the previous owner (my father) lost the built sheet for the engine. So while I had the engine out I pulled the cam to get the specs on that and fix a few small issues with the motor as well as repaint it. We figure the engine only has roughly 35-45k miles on it since rebuild since the truck sat and only was driven 3-4 times a year. My question is, when putting the cam back in, do I need to use assembly lube on the lobes and bearings or just coat them with a thin layer of oil and put it back in? The Lifters and push rods are all going back into the respective location that they came out of. So all the parts that have broken in together are back with their mated surfaces so I would assume just oil will be fine but I am not 100% sure with that???
  3. Hello All, I have a 2007 Sierra 2500HD classic with 8.1L big block. For several years now I have had trouble with the ABS activating right before the truck comes to a stop. I figured I had a sensor going bad. I replaced both front sensors on the wheel bearing hub, that helped but didnt 100% fix the problem. I am aware that there is not independent wheel sensors for the rear wheels so in order for the abs computer to monitor the rear wheel speed it uses the speed sensor on the transmission/transfer case. Everything I have read or looked into about this issue, no one mentions that this sensor could be the culprit, everything always points to the front sensors. I have an Autel Scanner that I can monitor in real time the speed of all 3 of these sensors while driving, all sensors read the same while driving, however when slowing down, the rear sensor seems to be the first one to drop speed by about 1 second. I cant actually see if a sensor drops to zero before stopping because the lowest read out it will go to is 3.7mph, even without moving all 3 sensors read 3.7. Could the rear sensor in the transmission be my problem?
  4. I didnt drop the tank or lift the bed when i did mine, it took alot of wiggling and having a friend help but i got it through. It might not be sitting exactly where the oem line sat but its possible to get it done. 2007 Sierra 2500 classic with extended cab 8' bed. By far was the best choice I made, took me about 5-6 hours to put the whole kit in. Make sure you either have a scan tool or a friend with a scan tool that can do ABS automated bleed or else the pedal wont feel right. If you need I can copy the information onto here of an inexpensive one i bought that can do the Auto Bleed.
  5. Hello All, I have a 2007 Sierra 2500HD classic with 8.1L big block. For several years now I have had trouble with the ABS activating right before the truck comes to a stop. I figured I had a sensor going bad. I replaced both front sensors on the wheel bearing hub, that helped but didnt 100% fix the problem. I am aware that there is not independent wheel sensors for the rear wheels so in order for the abs computer to monitor the rear wheel speed it uses the speed sensor on the transmission/transfer case. Everything I have read or looked into about this issue, no one mentions that this sensor could be the culprit, everything always points to the front sensors. I have an Autel Scanner that I can monitor in real time the speed of all 3 of these sensors while driving, all sensors read the same while driving, however when slowing down, the rear sensor seems to be the first one to drop speed by about 1 second. I cant actually see if a sensor drops to zero before stopping because the lowest read out it will go to is 3.7mph, even without moving all 3 sensors read 3.7. Could the rear sensor in the transmission be my problem?
  6. We have a car trailer that has a full size car battery in it for the break away switch for the electric brakes. The trailer battery went bad so if the trailer is hooked to the truck for 2-3 days without moving or starting; it drains the truck battery from the hot wire constantly trying to charge the battery. Try having the camper battery load tested.
  7. I have had a mushy brake pedal in this truck since the day I got it 6 years ago. I have replaced all 4 calipers, caliper brackets/pins, rotors, pads. Rebled the whole system again and alittle better but still mushy. This past spring I had a hard line blow out on me so I bought a Prebent Stainless brake line set from Dorman for $89, it wasn't even worth bending and flaring my own lines at that price, plus it's all stainless. While I was installing the new lines I noticed the master cylinder leaking brake fluid on the bottom between the cylinder and booster so that's why I am replacing it now, I have since bought a vacuum brake bleeder and read up on how air gets trapped inside the abs pump and very hard to get out without a tech 2 scanner that will cycle the abs pump while you bleed the lines. Which the weekend warrior that I am doesn't have this $1000 scanner. Now I am hitting up all my actual mechanic buddies to see if I can borrow their scanner to get he abs pump to cycle. I am determined to get a good pedal finally in this truck. I am about ready to rip the rear disc brakes off and convert it to drums. I have never had good luck with my vehicles that had rear disc.
  8. Thank you very much for that info. I got the correct one ordered now! Hauling a load of firewood down to my parents house the week of Thanksgiving and you know, being able to stop is on the list of preferred things I would like to be able to do with all that weight on the truck.
  9. Hello, I have a 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD classic body truck with the 8.1l motor. I need to replace the master cylinder. When I go to order the master cylinder there is two different option cylinders. One for integrated trailer brakes and one for non integrated trailer brake trucks. I do not have the factory integrated trailer brakes but I do have an aftermarket tekonsha controller which is wired into a factory black box and into the factory wire harness behind the brake pedal of the truck that does look like it was made to just be able to plug into for a brake controller. I was told that each truck was factory wired for the integrated brake controller even though not all came equipped with the actual in dash controller, and that I should order the master cylinder for integrated brakes. Is this true?? Thank you
  10. Whats the proper way to bleed ABS brakes? I always just did this...Started with Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left front. Never seemed to have an issue with any of my other ABS vehicles. Everything is brand new, I got all new LOADED calipers and rotors.
  11. Hey guys...Got an 07 Sierra 2500HD Classic body 8.1L....disc brakes front and rear. Since I got the truck in 2010, it had a real low kinda mushy brake pedal. If you get a load on the truck or have to panic stop, it makes you feel as if it isnt going to stop. I have tried bleeding them several times, no change at all. Put brand new loaded brake calipers & pads all the way around with new delco rotors and all new shoes for parking brake. It got alittle better but still not really the way you want your brake pedal to feel. I didnt really notice how bad my pedal felt until I got my 86 Chevy K20 back on the road and its like night and day difference betweeen how a 30 year old truck can practically stop on a dime, and my 8 year old truck feels as if it has practiacally no brakes. Not sure what to do next? Master cylinder?
  12. I am looking at putting an exhaust on my 07 sierra 2500HD, some kits say they fit crew cab Standard bed OR extended cab long bed.....and then some say will only fit crew cab standard box....Is this right? By the way I am taking this info, seems to me that Extended cab long bed and Crew cab standard bed are the same length?
  13. 16.5x8.25 Western Brand "Turbine" style wheels for 8 lug Chevy Ford Dodge. Very good condition. Just glass bead blasted the face of the wheels. They are becoming more and more hard to find. Will have pictures later or can text pictures
  14. Hello, I got a 2007 GMC Sierra 2500HD CLASSIC SLE w/ 8.1L Motor in it... The previous bone head owner of the truck cut into the Stainless Factory exhaust at the muffler and put an aluminized system and aftermarket muffler on it which rotted off shortly after I purchased the truck..I took the truck to our local exhaust shop and had another aluminized dual exhaust put on it...This lasted me about two years and is now rotting back off again... Every other Sierra with the big block 8.1 I have come across and looked at...their factory exhaust is made alot differnet than what is left of my factory exhaust..which is basically from the muffler foreword. Theirs has both left and right side of the exhaust pipes from the motor going into the muffler..as to where Mine "Y" together shortly after the cat converter and then there is about a 3-4 foot by 3.5'' diameter intermediate pipe before what would be where the factory muffler was....with a two bolt flange style connector attaching it to the Y pipe I mentioned. My question is... Is there any possible way...that my truck somehow got the newer body style exhaust system under it before they made the acutal change to the body considering my truck is a mid-year truck (thats at least what I call it when they change body styles half way through the year)?? I have looked on ebay and other places for exhaust systems...what they say will fit my truck...does not at all look like what is under my truck...and what they say will fit the newer body style trucks...looks like it would bolt right up....
  15. THANKS FOR DECAL...WOULD LOVE TO HAVE ANOTHER FOR MY OTHER GM TRUCK!!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.