Folically Challengjed

Since it was only $18, shipped, I went ahead & bought a whole new fob (matching numbers). Heck, it's Christmas, after all. Thanks for the help. FC

My key fob is broken beyond duct tape. I've got a 2007 Yukon XL 1/2 ton, and I was thinking it's of a vintage where I could buy a key fob from eBay or elsewhere, and program it myself. This video makes it look easy: Is that really all there is to it? Or, am I missing something? Thanks, FC

Fixed. After some Googling & YouTube-ing, it seemed that folks were largely having success by replacing front impact sensors. Since they were easy enough to get at, I removed the plastic cover at the bottom of the engine bay, then felt around on the sensors with my fingers. The one on the driver's side had a huge lump on it under the adhesive label, so I shoved my phone up there & took a picture. The picture confirmed it was cracked. I ordered a new Dorman 590-203 sensor, and had it installed in < 11 minutes. Voila - no more "Service Air Bag" message. Yeah, I "threw parts at it", but not completely blindly. After I had the picture, I felt better about trying a $60 fix, vs. the $600 dealer fix. FC

Got the message this morning for the first time, and it's remained on for several trips all day. The truck's been running like a champ for months, and seems otherwise unaffected. So far... * I have checked fuse #39 and #51 ('cause they both mentioned "Air Bag"), and they're both fine. * Wiggled the wires under driver's and passenger's seats to confirm solid connections. No broken wires observed. * No CEL on. However, the auto parts people used their "free" scanner on it, and pulled-up codes C0899 and C0900. * Battery is just shy of 5 years old, but it's never had a lick of trouble, and the truck still starts quickly, and everything electrical runs strong. Are there any items I can check/inspect myself before running it to the dealer for the $100+ diagnostic scan? Thanks, FC

What kind of consumption did you have for this latest OCI? FC

Here's a good place to start: http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/169782-attention-anyone-with-oil-pressure-issues/ I worked for about an hour on mine, before giving up & taking it to the mechanic. I'm not afraid to do light wrenching, but I didn't feel like messing up the UIM when I need the truck every day. Good Luck, FC

How many miles are on the plugs + wires? FC

Update: screen wasn't bad at all, but it was a [female dog] to get out, even with the intake removed. Mechanic charged less than I was expecting, and said it's the 10th 5.3 oil pressure switch they've done this year. Truck runs well. FC

Thanks, KTruck75. I figured it would be about like that. I did see another YouTube video where they disconnected the fuel line, then zip-tied the metal (a/c?) tube to some electrical lines to bow it out of the way. Somehow, they shoved the brake booster vacuum hose up out of the way, though I can't tell if they removed the end that connects to the manifold. And if they did, I have no idea how they did so, since I can't envision what kind of pliers could reach back into that space to get to the hose clamp. So, with those 2 hoses & the metal line out of the way, I could see that freeing-up just enough space to get back in with a socket and an articulated extension. I drove the truck over to the mechanic's place yesterday, & shoved an envelope through the door slot with a note & the keys in it. I'd prefer to pay for 2 hours of his shop time & have the thing done correctly, than to jerk around with it for 5 or 10 hours of my time, and end up with all the soreness & aggravation. I'm kinda surprised to hear that your screen was clean. I've been diligent about oil changes with this truck, & air filters, too. The only thing I can think of is that I'm on my second OCI using MaxLife, so maybe it has some detergents that loosened stuff that hadn't been causing a problem before. I asked the mechanic to save the old screen, so I'll post back on what it looks like. Thanks again, FC

For those of you who've changed the oil pressure sensor & screen, how the #%@#! did you get to it? Did you remove the whole manifold? I've got the parts for this fix, but I'm about to give up & let the mechanic abuse his knuckles. Any hints would be appreciated. FC

The link I posted was Donaldson nonsense. Here's one of their videos. At the 1:33 mark, it explains how new filters can expose the engine to more contaminants: ... and here's some CAT nonsense (see page 24, 4th paragraph down in the left column): http://albahar.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/SEBU9208-00.pdf CAT even developed a line of filters around the phenomenon: https://parts.cat.com/wcs-static/pdfs/PEHP6028-04.pdf ... and some Cummins nonsense: https://www.cumminsfiltration.com/html/en/training/faq/air.html So if they're correct that a filter is least efficient at stopping particulates when it's new, then changing to a new filter more often would expose the engine to more contaminants than just leaving one in for whatever service life they recommend. Whatever. It's your truck - change it whenever makes you happy. FC

I've also heard of "over-filtering", or changing too often. The premise is that a brand-new filter is less efficient than one that has been "loaded" with a small amount of dirt, because the dirt will seal-off some of the microscopic holes in the filter media. I found it discussed here: http://www.fleetequipmentmag.com/clearing-engine-air/ Just food for thought... or, maybe just food for overthinking. I usually check the filter at the "heavy use conditions" mileage, and keep an eye on it every 5K miles thereafter. FC

I've had 4 trucks with the air filter gauge on them, I've never seen the indicator move on any of them. For comparison's sake, here's what my Purolator filter looked like with just shy of 28,000 miles on it (< 20 miles of those being off-road): The white one is a new AC Delco: If my filter looked like yours, I'd go ahead & spend the $25 for a new one. I'd probably clean the MAF and throttle body while I was at it. FC

The rubber air baffles on the sides of the radiator on my 2007 Yukon XL (LC9) have torn & come loose. The replacements seem pretty expensive for a #*%@! piece of rubber. I can't see GM going to the trouble/expense of putting them in there for no good reason, but I'm not seeing what it is. Will the world end if I just rip them out of there, & move on with my life? Are they preventing some problem that I'm not seeing? Thanks, FC

What is your 3 digit engine code? FC