Mine has the one before that which was an all-in-one system (kind of a rectangular thing). Vapor line goes from the canister to this thing and I guess it is the vent control. My guess is it's in the closed position because after working on it the code went away for ~80 miles. On mine it sat on top of the tank and was a bitch to get to. Wound up taking the bracket loose and pulling it out by the hard plastic hose (which is why I think I may have broken the wires rather than them being chewed, though there were bite marks on the plastic clip). I had to go Cro-Magnon on it a little bit. Heater hose and clamps are already in place. I didn't want to leave the canister open while I waited on the pigtail to replace the plug. My multimeter died but before it did it did detect power to the wires. I'm not sure why the new setup is better but I'll probably go back with what I had. Easier to relocate. Found this picture on another forum - this shows where it was (though I didn't take the bed off): Not chasing the purge solenoid yet. This also appears to show that there is a length of wire that is supposed to be between the main harness body and the plug for the solenoid. In my case it is missing. That lends credence to the idea that a rodent chewed the wires and therefore that the broken wire might be the issue. We shall see.
My 2000 Silverado has an issue (along with others documented here) where the radio antenna seems to have stopped working. It will play CDs but the radio is just static. Best guess is that the radio antenna wire is broken somehow. How hard are these to replace? Does the dash have to come out? Is there a way to test this?
Make sure you have the right fuse. These things won't run without the fuel pump running. Easiest way - pull the fuse (with the truck off) and see if will still run. Assuming the pump is good, it might be the fuel pressure regulator. If I understand the system right, this thing is supposed to balance the fuel delivery based on engine throttle. A cracked diaphram will make it run rich at idle, but I think a bad spring will cause issues at open throttle. Replacement (Auto Zone/GP Sorenson) is about $65. Would explain pressure issues. Answers that. Not sure of the modern systems, but older Stabilitrac-type systems worked by reducing power when they detected slippage.
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Was actually tipped off on that here. In a thread someone posted that as a possible cause for a misfire, but unlikely since the guy was getting a "lean misfire". I realized I was getting a "rich misfire" and decided to take a peek. Bingo.
Ok - this is odd. Still don't have the solenoid wired into the truck (waiting on the plug from Amazon). Yet, I drove it 40 miles and the Check Engine light has not come on yet. I still plan to fix it properly but this is strange. It was rather cool this morning. I also now thing I might have actually broken the wires when pulling out the solenoid. They look chewed up but it is possible I broke them as I kinda had to yank the solenoid out by the tube attached to it. How much wire is there between the "main harness" in that area and the plug? Will wire the solenoid back in and see what happens. If I need a new one, I'll get it then. This is the part, isn't it? https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-214-1091-Original-Equipment-Canister/dp/B000C9I8PS/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=evap+solenoid&pd_rd_r=fedffd5d-6cb2-4837-b8a3-e7de87a143fe&pd_rd_w=UuseX&pd_rd_wg=48Sdd&pf_rd_p=a3978073-1659-4459-9864-85fa319939df&pf_rd_r=4FZ1G08419KBHCPE869Q&pid=3Tb9Evv&qid=1561992923&s=gateway&sr=1-1&vehicle=2000-47-491------------&vehicleName=2000+Chevrolet+Silverado+1500
They can’t hack something together that may or may not work. They have a reputation to keep. Plus they don’t want to do it twice. I can understand that.
Something else I’m trying to reconcile is that a mechanic quoted me $300+ for this. Said they had to update the system to fix it. I assume they mean the two-piece solenoid system. I know they can’t -as a professional shop - do what I did but that still seems high. Maybe they know something I don’t. This is shop has always hit me straight. Maybe that was a worst-case estimate. He typically uses either OEM parts or the same brand as OEM - ie might use Denso parts on a Honda instead of parts from Honda - which are made by Denso.
I got all I could find which was heater hose. May change it later but it let me re-mount the solenoid on top of the Evan canister with a mondo zip tie. Didn’t seem right leaving it off altogether. It turns out that something had eaten the wire to the solenoid. It was missing from the harness to the plug. I’ve ordered a new plug from Amazon and pulled the two wires out of the bundle and have them ready to connect to the new plug when it arrives. I tried to reuse the old plug but I couldn’t make it work. I figure the the odds of the wire being eaten AND the solenoid going bad are kinda remote so I reused the old solenoid for now. If it still gives a code I’ll get a new solenoid. I am getting power at the two wires that go to the solenoid.
I think I’m gonna just order the kit on Amazon that relocated the whole thing. $80 and seems to have everything I need but I’ll look at it a little harder. Probably a new plug too but gotta figure out what it’s called. Got it any help on that? As for now I don’t go over 3/4 tank. Don’t drive it much anyway. I usually go non ethanol or put Sta-bil in it because it sits so much anyway. Fuel in the vacuum is funny because I was having a rich condition misfire and having a hard time finding the source. Finally pulled the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and a column of gas shot up about an inch - forgot to relieve the pressure first (oops!). New one one from Auto Zone (all I could find available right then) and she’s running well. Just want to get that light out but if the truck can pull gas through this thing to the intake that turns up urgency a but.
No state inspection in SC. Amazon does sell a kit that relocates the valve. Seems to have everything. But it's $80 and I don't know how good the valve in it actually is. Where I work, we have used fuel vapor lines that actually state "not for fuel" or something like that. I assume vapors are okay though......
Looking at this, I might not even need to get the old one out to replace it. Most upgrades/replacements have this thing relocated anyway - some using heater hoses and other things. What I'm thinking is if I can get the wire off of the old one, I can unhook and/or cut the line to it and then connect the new one. Old one can just kinda sit there. For that matter, worst-comes-to-worst I can even cut the wire and put a new plug on it. I'm a minimalist so I prefer to strip off anything that doesn't do anything, but in this case I might just leave the old one in place. But in the interest of due diligence I plan to replace the fuel cap first.
I found it. On top of the gas tank it looks like. How on earth do I get to it ?
Here is a picture of my setup. Haven’t seen anything like it online. This is in front of the tank.
My 2000 Silverado has an issue with the evap system that is causing the P0449 trouble code. I've watched several videos and it looks kind of simple to fix the issue, except my truck seems to be different. Most videos show a small canister behind the fuel tank. Mine however has a larger canister in front of the tank - I think. Am I looking at the right thing? Two fuel lines seem to go to it. A mechanic said the truck had to be upgraded to fix the trouble code - apparently the old parts are no longer available. I'm wondering if old parts might be available via Ebay, Amazon, etc - things he can't do (because he has to warranty his work) but as the owner I might be willing to do. Am I even looking in the right place?
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