brucelimerick

They aren't expensive. They can do a lot of damage if left too long. It is not costly to eliminate this possible source. $40 an a couple of hours at most. Do both. They are a high wear item and take a lot of abuse especially if you are bouncing around off road. The other items mentioned should last the life of a vehicle.

Sounds like one of your universal joints. The key symptom is when you take your foot off the gas and you get clunking. This will get progressively worse over time. If you don't fix it it the shaking will start to deteriorate your spline and your pinion. Sounds like the service manger didn't want to get his hands dirty. As for the dealer and warranty it should be covered. I would get a pry bar and put some pressure on the u-joints to check for movement. You probably can't grease them as mine were sealed. That can be a quick check, clunk could go away for a short period but it will return shortly.

I don't understand why the shop even did an alignment. A waste of money. Any shop I use checks all the suspension points before the alignment and if something is not right they tell me and get authorization to fix what ever part needs repair. You can't do an alignment with 3/16" of slop in a tie rod. Not sure what you mean by camber bolts but I have a 36" 3/4" drive breaker bar I use for extra tough jobs. I also use a wire brush to clean the threads and penetrating oil. A couple of treatments of that over a day or 2 and most nuts come off. If you want to go faster put some heat to the nut with a propane or MAP gas torch. If all else fails and I'm replacing the bolt anyway I just snap the head off with my breaker bar and drive the bolt out with a punch. You trip to the shop will pay for a big bar. I also got an adapter to 1/2" and use my impact sockets. I would use another alignment shop. They should have changed out those bolts before they did the alignment.

air can cause the pressure to be maintained in the line. I would re bleed both back calipers again just to check. It is a cheap fix if it is the problem.

Re-bleed that side. Might still be a little air in there.

Vacuum leak. Start with the hose to the engine you disturbed changing out the booster.

Sounds like a head gasket. Most times you will also get tiny flecks of oil in the anti-freeze tank too. One way is to have you cylinders pressure checked. The bad one or 2 should show. That will also tell you which side is the problem in the case you just want to do the one side. I don't know that motor but for a v-8 that seems to be middle mileage.

Disc brakes always rub a little, there are no springs to retract them. Air won't cause you problem it will actually help in your case. There is no adjustment for a master cylinder. I have had a lot of problems with my rears. I redid the whole system 2 years ago. My parking brakes have been removed, crap. The odd time my rears would heat heat up so much you could smell them getting out of the truck. I have found the odd time that the caliper doesn't center well after a brake job and one side will rub. Normally your first application of the brakes will fix that. I have the caps off my hubs and check the temperature frequently on all 4 centers. If one gets warm I will just wiggle the truck back and forth in the lane and that will back the pads off a tiny bit and everything is good. I have also noticed that some of the pads aren't that well made or the dies are getting old. I check them all now and take the file or the dremel to them to make sure they slide properly so they don't bind in the caliper. I had one set you could hardy move with a hammer. Be cautious though, if you make them too sloppy then they vibrate and make noise

My 01 has about the same mileage. There is one other thing it could be as well, the instrument cluster. There is a fair aftermarket repairing them. Apparently the stepper motors go. My gas gauge is a little wonky too, just doesn't always read right. No problem with the low fuel light yet though. Logic says this has nothing to do with your fuel pump. It is either the sending unit in the tank or the receiving unit on the cluster. I haven't got around to figuring out what is wrong with mine yet. i just remember how much fuel is in the tank. You would think there is a way to test the sender to eliminate it. Fuel pump is easy to test. I rarely run into fuel pump issues with the new electric ones and have had several go 300,000 miles.

I don't remember it being serviceable. You can't relocate it because of the wires to the solenoid and the plastic tube to the charcoal canister. Make sure you clean that tube out as well. The fix is to split the solenoid and the filter and get the filter out of the dust stream off the front tire. You only want to do it once because it is a tough job getting to the solenoid.

Have fun with that. Get a 5lb sledge, short handle. You will need that to get the hub free. BTW you will need a front end alignment once you get it out because you won't believe how hard you have to pound that sucker to free it. My first was done by a GM class 'A' mechanic in the end because I didn't apply enough force. Put the new one back in with a coat of never seize just in case your truck lasts that long you have to do it again.

Totally agree with txab. I have a 01. Went to NAPA. $35 plus the 5/8" rad hose. I have never bought anything from a GM dealer. I have let them do free warranty work, safety recalls but that is it. Scammers. $120/hr+ shop rate for a tech? Not happening in my world. I can't even choke that down for a class 'A' mechanic. Do the full kit and move the filter box back up behind the trany and firewall. I took my old one apart and it was totally choked with road dust. No doubt tossed up by the front tire. The same dust that takes out my crappy rear disk brakes in 14k miles. The "official" GM fix is to move the filter box and separate the solenoid and the filter intake. Their fix when the "memo" came out was $35, now $125+ for their engineering mistake that runs till what year? Yours is 2006. I know the "memo" came out before that and older trucks than mine had the problem, I think back to 99. So 7 years with a problem and they are still trying to screw you and they knew about it in about 2002 or earlier. Yup, I love my GM service, right. The brake story. Dealer said it was "normal" to have to do the rear brakes at 14k miles for an $800 touch. A brand new truck! Suggested it was my fault because I drove on dirt roads! Suggested I should get ceramic pads for $300 a pop and said I couldn't leave because my truck was unsafe with no passenger side rear brakes. So now they wanted $1,000. Walked next door to a parts store, got a pair of ceramic pads for $90. Dealer put the passenger set in and I drove home, fuming! but my truck was out of jail. Went back in a week later with search paper off google. A week later GM paid for the full $800 to me for a full rear rebuild. Calipers, disks and pads. BS too, didn't need calipers. I still buy extra pads, rear passenger side eats a set every 6 months. Need a rear pair every year plus disks. 2016 still original front brakes but I have replaced the front brake flex hoses and 1 front wheel bearing. That to me is very normal, exceptional actually. I still have my original battery and it starts at -20C. So what happened on the rear brakes and evap solenoid? Oh and the rear differential, rebuilt after one week off the lot. Mistakes I can handle if they fix them. But I won't bend over and take a screwing, especially when it is their mistake.

The GM wax coating is crap but apparently they will fix it. You might try another dealer for GM's fix. GM will void their warranty if you put any other rust protection on. Deal with it now though. My 2001 had a 10 year no perf warranty. 10 years and 2 months and it blew out like a teenager with zits. My frame is toast. 2001 and wax coating, It all peeled off. GM figures their coating is hot shit and there is no corrosion allowance. My 68 chev half ton is now a trailer. It's frame has more metal left than my 2001. Says something when your truck is 12 years newer than mine and they are still using the same crap that doesn't work and still trying to bamboozle everyone. You are right it is a huge issue. A lot of people have got them to repair the coating on here. Wait and see what they recommend. Don't go to a rust coat yet, GM will walk.

I don't remember seeing drain holes on the rockers, it seemed like a sealed off area to me. The doors had drains which I have always kept open and they are in very good shape compared to my rockers. Interesting thought about rockers rusting from the inside out. Could be totally possible. If there is moisture in the cab's interior void it eventually will condense and end up in the rocker and cab corner area, these are the low points. Krown used to drill into these area's to spray them. Most vehicle makers now have factory access holes with plugs to allow access. Blasphemy on this site but I do like Ford going with the aluminum body. Their super high end toy now has an aluminum frame. The 2 things still in pristine shape on my 01 is the aluminum drive shaft and the stainless exhaust.

I don't remember seeing drain holes on the rockers, it seemed like a sealed off area to me. The doors had drains which I have always kept open and they are in very good shape compared to my rockers. Interesting thought about rockers rusting from the inside out. Could be totally possible. If there is moisture in the cab's interior void it eventually will condense and end up in the rocker and cab corner area, these are the low points. Krown used to drill into these area's to spray them. Most vehicle makers now have factory access holes with plugs to allow access. Blasphemy on this site but I do like Ford going with the aluminum body. Their super high end toy now has an aluminum frame. The 2 things still in pristine shape on my 01 is the aluminum drive shaft and the stainless exhaust.