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FlBowhunter

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FlBowhunter last won the day on July 14 2014

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About FlBowhunter

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  • Birthday 07/20/1956

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  1. That,s 2 I owe you now. I see you are from Milton, I use to call Slinger WI home 25 years ago. I usually get back to WI a couple times a year to visit Family.I will be bowhunting at my Dads property near Lake Tomahawk.this fall, Man I miss Snowmobiling. Thanks again Tom
  2. To answer your question, the search engine works well. There are numerous topics on this forum regarding the color of the interior trim. I guess if I was willing to accept a 50% chance of being right I wouldn't have asked the question. Maybe I should just buy both of them that way I would spend a $100 and have 100% chance of having the right one. Thanks for your help
  3. Thinking of changing out the center bezel from BLACK to SYNTHESIS. All the GM OEM online parts stores that I have been visiting lists two center bezels with the same description but with different part numbers and cost. Was hoping someone could help me sort it out.. CENTER BEZEL Part# 23136581 $56.88 W/O HEATED SEATS, SYNTHESIS CENTER BEZEL Part# 23136583 $53.55 W/O HEATED SEATS, SYNTHESIS I am thinking it may be a typo and one should have read HEATED SEATS, SYNTHESIS. I just need to figure out which to order. Any help would be appreciated.
  4. Tom Had to bend up an old screwdriver to get the right angle, pop off it came. Airbag is out and it appears that the male plug (Clockspring side) has all the 9 wires and pins while the steering wheel only used 6 pins. Got to do a little more homework but it is looking good.
  5. Yea, that may also be an issue. I believe the person you are referring to is "GTPprix" his signature says he does custom automotive software. Right now step one is just to get the steering wheel off without wrecking something or having the airbag blow up in my face. These trucks are not near as much fun to tinker with as they use to be. I know a lot of guys blast people for upgrading parts of there new truck saying to just go buy what you want to start with. Well I thought I could get along without some of the bells and whistles but after driving the truck for a while I changed my mind. When I bought the truck I anticipated this might happen but in the past it was a lot easier and even fun to upgrade and customize. I really enjoy tinkering with my truck. Now I own a vehicle that GM wants to tell me what I can and cannot due to it. I am willing t pay for the programming just let someone do it. We know it can be done. First GM product in over 20 years and even though right now I like my truck I probably won't go back to GM or at least I will do more research t see which vehicles (if any) are more home mechanic friendly.
  6. I am thinking of upgrading my steering wheel. Right now I have cruise control but no radio buttons. WT2 I would like to check and see if the wiring for the additional controls are already in place. GM only offers 2 clocksprings for the Silverado, one is for a heated wheel and one is for without heat, nothing said about the radio controls. So I would think the wiring harness and clockspring would be correct. I just wanted to check to be certain. I am looking for a little help with the proper procedure for removing the air bag. I have searched this forum and also the web but all I find is information for the 2013 and earlier models. I have taken many airbag equipped steering wheels off before and I am fully aware of all the dangers and safety measures that need to be dealt with regarding the disarming the air bag, GM has changed the design of the steering wheel on the 2014 LD trucks and being unable to PURCHASE A SERVICE MANUAL YET!l I have no guideline on how to disarm and remove the airbag and steering wheel. Was hoping someone here could help me out.
  7. gmupfitter website https://www.gmupfitter.com/files/media/photo/474/2014%20BBM%20Electrical%20section_10_18_2013_WIP.pdf
  8. Sorry no pics but the diagram in the attachment should show you how to hook it up and where you put the switch and how you get the wires to the bcm really is your choice. I mounted the switch in the plastic plug because I was able to pop it out and mount the switch and wire it on my work bench. Like I said in my post I prefabbed the entire wire harness in a wire loom and tied it off to an existing harness running up the frame rail on the drivers side. once inside the cab popped out the bcm plug tapped the 2 wires. Done
  9. I already tried that found the door unlock signal wire and taped the light signal wire. Used a diode so the signal did not flow both ways otherwise when you hit the cargo light switch the doors would unlock, no luck. I think you can do it with a small relay. I may try this when I have some time down the road.
  10. I don't think that would work. If that was the case you could hold down the cargo lamp switch in the multi-function switch and the light would stay on all the time. You might be able to rewire the cargo light from accessory power with a On-Off switch using 2 relays that could trigger using the factory switch. http://www.emil.matei.ro/onof2.php Not sure it is worth that much effort, might be easier to just add a light with a separate switch.
  11. Hi Guys, 1st time poster, been lurking around for awhile but never had anything useful to contribute. Not sure how useful this is or if it may have already been done but if not here goes. Well I really hated the way you have to go in the cab to turn on your cargo light in the back and after a little research I was able to come up with a really simple inexpensive way to add a switch for the cargo light in your truck bed. Cargo Light Switch.pdf When I took my multi function switch apart I realized it was only a momentary switch that sends a ground signal to the BCM to turn the lights on and off. I then was able to find the correct wires to tap thanks to the gmuppfitter site. I prefabbed the switch with about a 15' wiring harness (26 gauge wire was all I used) and encased it in a small 1/4" wire loon. Then I popped out the plastic plug near the back f the bed on the drivers side and mounted switch in the plastic plug. I then pulled the wire thru the hole and popped the plastic plug back in place. Then I removed the left rear taillight and was able to reach over and grab the harness pull it back to the light and to tie it off to the existing wire harness. I did this all the way to the front of the truck. I came in to the cab thru the large grommet by the parking brake. ran it over to the BCM. Trimmed my wires and tapped the signal and ground wire for the cargo lights. Now I have a switch in the Pickup bed for less than $20 and a couple of hours of my Saturday. The switch actually works like a 3 way as I can now turn it on in the back and then off in the front or vice versa. Because I am just sending the BCM a signal from another source the light retains all the original functions like the battery saver and it turns off when you put it in forward. I have a cover on my truck bed so I just used a Radio Shack switch but if you do not have a cover or cap you may want to use a Marine grade switch. Cargo Light Switch.pdf Cargo Light Switch.pdf Cargo Light Switch.pdf
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