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Fla Eagle

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Everything posted by Fla Eagle

  1. I installed myself. Not any harder then other trucks I have done, except the control arm bushings were difficult to press in without having a press. The polyurethane bushings wouldn't shrink no matter how long I left them in the freezer.
  2. I installed Bilstein 6112/5160 and Bilstein control arms to give the front a 1.2" lift. I think they should have come this way stock. I get that it's a truck, but GM's off-road oriented truck probably shouldn't have the same rake as a regular truck and a little bigger tire. It's not perfectly level and I'm good with that so I can still use it as a truck. Currently have 285/65-20 ridge grapplers that need to be replaced soon. These fit stock but needed a 1/2" wheel spacer to clear new control arms and a mud flap delete after spacer.
  3. You can add a switch to the bed. Here's what I did on the refresh.
  4. I added a switch in the bed that works the same as the switch in the cab. https://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/260999-20225-cargo-bed-lights-secondary-switch/
  5. Dang, I'm surprised those rubbed slightly. My ridge grappler dimensions are the same width and slightly taller then the Mickey's. Maybe the refresh sierra is slightly bigger? They look good on your truck. How do you like them?
  6. Yeah I had seen that before and was an option. The switch was given to me and I think it looks factory especially in the location I put it.
  7. Only reason I used the harness was just to make it simple to connect to the Ford switch. You could do it without it or any other momentary switch.
  8. It's a ground signal that goes to bcm.
  9. Ford cargo light switch harness. I think it was $34. Didn't get a part# for the switch as it was given to me and I didn't take a picture of the back of it. My friend had ordered it for a 2022 f150 but he had to order for a 2021 as the 22 was too new to be in the system.
  10. Routed through hood release firewall grommet
  11. Route a single wire through firewall into engine bay and underneath to tail light. Cab wire to the switch and connect the ground.
  12. Remove connector from back of switch. Make t tap to grey wire coming from truck cargo switch.
  13. Remove side panel on dash, bottom panel under steering wheel, to access 2 (7mm?) screws that holds the left side switch panel in place. Remove switch panel. All these come off pretty easily.
  14. Removed unnecessary wiring and connectors from Ford harness.
  15. I tapped the grey wire coming from the back of the truck switch and connected it to the white wire of the Ford switch. The ground from the Ford switch was t tapped onto the ground wire for the cargo lights. You can connect this to any ground I just chose to keep the same ground as the lights and it was the easiest. I wouldn't normally use a t tap for something critical, but as this was just the cargo light I went ahead with it. I will post more pictures but it looks like I can only get 1 pic per post due to size.
  16. The switch now acts the same as the interior switch and turns the cargo lights on through the bcm. It will time out and turn off if you forget. Some aftermarket options won't
  17. I never really thought about before until a guy I work with got a new f150 and ordered the Ford oem bed cargo light kit and I really liked the secondary switch. I researched this a bit and there were a few aftermarket solutions and no real info on a 2022.5 as the electrical is different. He received 2 of the switches and gave one to me. I ordered the Ford wiring harness and t-tapped them in. It's weird having Ford parts, but I like that it looks factory. I wish it came that way from the factory.
  18. Mine has this sound as well. Goes away if you switch to heat. I've looked a little into this and many say it's normal. If it is, I'm not a fan of it.
  19. These pictures the rake isn't as noticable and it when I'm good with no level haha.
  20. I run 89 most of the time as my company won't reimburse premium fuel. I haven't noticed any knock, performance, or fuel economy change. However, anytime I'm fueling up with my own money I use 93.
  21. No level, 285/75-20 Nitto Ridge Grapplers. Like I said I really wanted the 295/65-20 but I'm undecided on a level. Most of the time I'm happy with it stock and it still rides pretty good, but there are times where I wish I had a level cause it looks good.
  22. You won't have any issues with that size and stock suspension. I ended up going with nitto in the same size and they are slightly taller and wider then yours and I have no rubbing anywhere. I originally wanted an overall size similar to the op 295/65-20 same height but slightly narrower. I got concerned if I decided to go with a level kit as the new control arms can limit tire size. The 285's on mine are very close to the stock control arm so I'm not sure the 295's would've even worked with the stock suspension without a wheel spacer. I'm thinking it may be because the op has 22" wheels.
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