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KUUG

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Everything posted by KUUG

  1. Hardly noticeable at all
  2. I don't have that size but from what I read on here I think you will just have slight rubbing. Are you sticking with stock wheels?
  3. Tighten your shock mounts! I haven't had a problem with mine since I did this
  4. They all basically look the same... just do some image searching on google. If I still have my directions I'll scan them and post them up but I think I threw them away(they weren't even for the right truck but they got me started). Looks like the mount up to the same locations as the AMP steps from the previous picture posted. Its a very simple design, I'm sure you could makes some and even make them look better/more functional. http://www.ranger-forums.com/attachments/interior-exterior-electrical-misc-119/58842d1366152306-n-fab-nerf-step-bars-corvallis-nfab2-jpg
  5. As long as mounting locations were all planned out correctly it shouldn't have too much effect. I think some aftermarket grilles would allow even more light to pass through.
  6. She must run a tight ship!
  7. You beat me to it! Looks Great! I bought those same led's back in August and my first attempt failed. Put them in my toolbox and never got back around to it. Do you have any detailed pictures of the mounting you did?
  8. I had a deal worked out with a friend of mine to buy it this weekend or next, but now he's trying to sell his truck with it on... Project might get delayed slightly What do you mean by "above the bowtie and below the bowtie in the grille"? 2 40" LED bars? I'd like to see pictures before the grille is put back on if this is what your going to do The upper part of the grille was going to be my first attempt, if I couldn't come up with any solid mounting locations I was going to go to the lower half
  9. I check connections under the seat and everything seems to be fine, there were a lot under there so who knows if I overlook any. Guess I'm going to just have to take it to the dealership in a couple weeks
  10. I could not find any information in our manual or online for Silverado or Sierra but I was able to find this information on Cadillacs 2013 Cadillac SERVICE DRIVER ASSIST SYSTEM If this message displays, take the vehicle to your dealer to repair the system. Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), Forward Collision Alert (FCA), Active Emergency Braking System, Assistance Systems for Parking or Backing, and/or Lane Departure Warning (LDW) system may not work. Do not use these systems until the vehicle has been repaired. 2014 Cadillac SERVICE DRIVER ASSIST SYSTEM If this message displays, take the vehicle to your dealer to repair the system. Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC), Forward Collision Alert (FCA), Active Emergency Braking System, Assistance Systems for Parking or Backing, and/or Lane Departure Warning (LDW) system may not work. Do not use these systems until the vehicle has been repaired. The radar is not clean. Keep the radar sensors free of mud, dirt, snow, ice, and slush. Clean the entire front and/or rear of the vehicle.
  11. Everything seems to be working properly except the vibration alert. The lane departure still works but I only get the beep now; same with the parking sensors. They don't go off randomly or when they aren't supposed to. With your wire not being connected properly, mine might just be a connection loose that runs to the seat vibration. If I cant find anything there I'll try to disconnect the battery. Hopefully its something this simple so I don't have to leave my truck at the dealership
  12. I searched and came up empty... I have a Silverado Z71-LTZ After I start the truck and the parking sensors or lane departure gets used I get a message on my dash that says Service: Driver Assist System. My parking sensors and lane departure still work fine but they now beep instead of vibrate(what I actually have it set to). I've gotten used to the vibrating seat and hate to hear the beeping. I will not be able to take my truck in for at least 2 weeks so I was wondering if anyone else has had this issue. The first time this came up was last Saturday morning. After I drove awhile I parked and got back in; the vibrating alert was back and worked the rest of the day with multiple stops. I did not drive anywhere Sunday and ever since Monday morning I got the message along with the beeping alert. I've checked my settings and they are still on vibrate; I've also tried to reset to factory settings the and still get the same message. Anyone have any ideas? I'm going to check over any wire connections I can find to make sure it isn't as simple as a loose connection. This is not a "new" truck; I've had it since the last week of July 2013 and am going on 21k miles.
  13. Got a link to the lights you bought?
  14. Looks good! What lift are you running? Those are stock wheels right?
  15. Not unfortunate for a house just unfortunate I have to delay the upgrades for the truck
  16. I will be getting my hands on a 40" in about 2 weeks. When I do I'll post up detailed pictures of my mounting locations for everyone . Mine will not be rigid but I'm getting it for $200 so it will do the job just fine...
  17. Haha! GM didn't give me a bottle; I'm going to check my glove box now...
  18. Just ask your dealer periodically if they can fix it for you. As of now there shouldn't be anything
  19. His statement is incorrect. GM WILL re-calibrate it but they wont do anything for your particular size yet. The only size they've done right now is 35-36" Only thing is a piece of mind, as long as you're aware you're actual speed is higher that displayed you're fine. Programmer will void warranty even for just tire size because they can not tell a difference between different tunes, just logs as a change. Before anyone says it; GM can't technically void a warranty like that but good luck fighting them for it.
  20. You have to be careful with this; I would message the company before purchasing. Some companies will advertise the actual lift height and some will advertise the block height. From the picture those look like 3" blocks giving you 2" lift; but that may also just be their generic picture. You should be able to pick up block lifts at your local auto parts store also.
  21. I'm amazed that people expect the factory to do this for us. Do I want it? Yes! I would also like video display but any auto maker that included this would be sued the first time someone wrecked. Ford may have cameras surrounding the vehicle but don't expect to be able access them while the vehicle is in motion. That's just a distraction to the driver and in all actuality I don't want everyone on the road to have access to this.
  22. I wouldn't say it was breaking since I found the problem but that's the whole reason for that post. I wanted to let people know that its not something that will go away...
  23. UPDATE & FIX I start by saying that I was getting a squeaking sound from under the rear drivers side and the same strange noise that I cant explain from somewhere between center to passenger side. This second noise is the same that most of you are describing on here where it is more noticeable when you're making left turns. I crawled under my bed to first tighten my u-bolts since I have lifting blocks installed in the rear. They were not loose but non the less I did tighten them. I then bounced the bed up and down standing on the bumper step, I could still hear the sound but could not figure out exactly where it was coming from. I got another person to do the same thing while I was under the truck. I noticed the drivers side rear shock was squeaking and also moving. I tightened up that and repeated the same process for the passenger side. Passenger side shock was loose but not making any squeaking sound; it was more clunking around. I tightened both rear shocks on the bottom mounts and all sounds are gone. This would explain why one person said they got new shocks and the sound was gone but then came back. I also noticed that the break line support running down the drivers side rubs on the line when causes another squeak. I bent the bracket so its not directly rubbing the line. I've test drove it last night and heard nothing. I drove 40 miles into work this morning and didn't get anything either. Hope this helps other people so they can fix it in their driveway instead of leaving it with the dealership for who knows how long For those who just want the fix: ***I tightened both rear shocks on the bottom mounts and all sounds are gone***
  24. Mine has been getting drastically worse in the past two weeks. I'm going to crawl under there today and see what I can do... As for everyone posting mileage and thinking its break in or whatever; I'm at 20k miles and it definitely worse than ever. If I discover anything I'll post back.
  25. That was my first thoughts also. After I talked to a couple people that ran them for quite a while I decided to give them a try. Some of those ebay aluminum blocks are weaker than composites now a days; given those aren't usually name brand.
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