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djriv11

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About djriv11

  • Rank
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  • Name
    denali D
  • Location
    Midwest
  • Gender
    Male
  • Drives
    2017 Silverado LTZ Z71 6.2L Redline CCSB

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  1. I thought I was clear of any vibration issues when I first drove my truck after installing the 2.25" rear Ready Lift blocks, but now I am not so sure. Our roads are pretty brutal here in Michigan right now so it's been tough to get a clean and clear test in on a smooth road. There have been times where I thought I could feel a vibration or a rougher/less smooth ride when cruising down the highway. There seem to be two completely conflicting views on the block tapering. Some say flat blocks are better because even though Tcase and Pinion angles change, they change the same amount. Others say, the taper is to compensate for the changed angles. Has anyone found any 2.25" flat blocks yet from a reputable source?
  2. Interested to hear how your tires fit, as I just did the same level setup. Which rear blocks did you go with? With a lot of highway commuter miles, I haven't been in a hurry to size up, but will probably end up just going 275/60 or 285/55 when I do. I see you've got the Airaid MIT in your signature....any feedback on that? Worth it?
  3. I asked a ton of questions on this forum so I figure I owe everyone a report-out.... I was very hesitant and pretty skeptical, but finally installed Billy 5100s all around on top setting in front along with the ReadyLift rear 2.25 blocks and had aligned. I immediately notice the difference visually from about 30 yards away and is exactly what I hoped for; looks good and noticeable increase in wheel well space. Fitting slightly bigger AT tires shouldnt be a problem. I measured but pretty roughly as I wasn't too concerned about the fractions. I got 2" min. up front and obviously a solid inch in back. 1" of rake left. Wouldn't of minded a little more rake either. You can also feel the height difference sitting in the truck. I've owned a couple 2500s, one of which was lifted on 35s so I'm used to the height difference. I do believe I'll need to adjust the headlights down just to be safe. Haven't been flashed yet but can tell they're pointing slightly higher. Driving is where this leveling setup really impressed me. My round trip commute is 80 miles and includes roads of every type from highway to gravel. I'd read all the reviews about a much firmer ride and feeling more of the small stuff in the road. You can feel a little more in the road, maybe, but not at all in a bad way. To me It really feels really planted and just right. Better grip, less bouncy at the same time. Body roll is almost eliminated around bends with speeds in the low-mid range, still noticeable at higher speeds but improved nonetheless. Obviously it doesn't nose dive quite as bad during the quicker stops either. My biggest fear was driveline caused vibrations due to the 3 degree rear block taper. Cross my fingers I haven't felt anything yet. Would still like to get on a much smoother highway to be absolutely sure though and stop worrying about it. I do tow a 3 place but very light snowmobile trailer at the max; hoping it doesn't squat much if it all.
  4. Thank you. My thought is that if the driveline angles are right, you should either have vibration issues or not.. hopefully this isn't as much of a wear and tear issue like ball joints as I do rack up more than 20k a year.
  5. Appreciate the feedback! That is reassuring. One thing ive been wondering, when re-torquing the U-bolts, did you do anything special to keep the leaf springs coming together evenly/properly? Possibly just torquing in a cross-pattern? I saw one guys video (albeit on a 'yota) where he pressed them together with a c-clamp, and would tighten the nuts a bit, retighten the c-clamp, and so on until fully torqued. Seemed unnecessary but got me thinking there is probably something to be said about ensuring the leafs are back in the proper position when the U-bolts are fully torqued.
  6. Anyone out there can say in full confidence the tapered rear blocks haven't given them any driveline vibration issues?? Keep finding more and more people saying they've got vibration issues in the 60-80 MPH range, and no one to confirm they haven't. I've got the blocks ready to install, but all these claims have me paranoid!! Anyone have problem/vibration-free experience after the rear +1" block install??
  7. Have you had any vibration issues due to the 3 degree taper on your rear readylift blocks?
  8. I've been going through this issue myself, there are a couple good YouTube videos explaining the problem which was also explained above (one link below, then more good videos in the related links). I called readylink to confirm their 2" blocks were flat, which they reassured me, but just got them today and sure as hell there's a 1/8th inch taper. Anyone find any good +1" from stock blocks that are flat?? I can't believe these companies are manufacturing them with a taper. It seems like they should've known this...
  9. Any driveline vibration at higher speeds under acceleration after installing the rear blocks? Just received my RL 2.25 blocks only to find out they are in fact tapered by 1/8th inch (even after calling RL in advance to be reassured the blocks were flat).
  10. Welp, went ahead and ordered the RL 2.25" blocks which arrived. Of course, even after I was reassured directly by RL these blocks were flat, they ARE tapered. Albeit small, the taper is 1/8th inch, from my understanding of pinion and driveline angles, this is a sure fire recipe for driveline vibration issues. I can't believe these companies manufacture parts without understanding the need for the driveline angles to cancel out to ensure rotations stay constant on each side of the drive shaft.
  11. Thank you sir. I finally just got ahold of ReadyLift direct and the gentleman I spoke with told me they are NOT tapered. He seemed to be answering from his own personal knowledge/experience and reassured me they are flat. Still skeptical, I went in and downloaded the PDF installation documents, and sure enough, it specifically states and illustrates pointing the tapered-down side toward the front of the truck. Sigh. Let me know what you find later on when you have a chance, I really appreciate it!!
  12. I've had full Weathertech sets on two of my trucks now, and full Husky X-Act on two. I'll take the Huskies any day over the Weathertechs as they curl and can be slick when wet/cold. The Huskies have nailed every aspect perfectly in my opinion.
  13. I was seconds away from pulling the trigger on the ReadyLift 2.25" blocks in conjunction with the Bilstein 5100s, but all of a sudden started coming across this issue with those rear blocks being tapered, and driveline vibration issues. ReadyLift website isn't clear whether they are tapered or not, and other retailers carrying the kit conflict; some say tapered and some say not tapered. Any chance you can confirm whether yours were? And have you had any vibration issues since installing? Thanks!
  14. I'm glad I found this thread. Seconds from pulling the trigger on the Bilstein 5100's for all 4 corners plus the ReadyLift 2.25" rear block kit. ReadyLift website wasn't clear whether there was a taper; pictures don't look like there is a taper but a couple other retailers did mention there is. Everything I can find points to the 2014+ trucks requiring a flat block. I really don't understand why ReadyLift wouldn't make these appropriately flat for this application. Sounds like older gen's needed taper but these new ones don't. I haven't been able to find enough legitimate positive reviews of the rear blocks with taper to make me comfortable buying/installing them. Are you still searching or have you found anything suitable??
  15. Appreciate the input everyone! I found the OE filter housing on Amazon, believe it or not, for $111 and sourced direct from General Motors. Part number confirmed. Can't complain about the Prime free 2 day shipping either I thought the picture posted. I just tried again and apparently it is too large of a file size. I seem to struggle with that on this forum... Anyways, that hose turned out to be the vacuum line of the PCV reroute modification. It looks like the previous owner did it slightly different than the method I have discovered online. Rather than using the copper elbow and 5/8" hose, they used 1" hose and slipped it right over the factory 3-way connector. I think the collapse was a result of the angle, so I will probably go with the 1/2" to 3/4" elbow method, assuming the rest of that connector is still inside the 1" hosing, which I will find out as soon as I pop it off.
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